• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Help! Gs 850gl not running well

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rochmn
  • Start date Start date
R

Rochmn

Guest
I recently acquired a 18,800 mile 1983 gs850 gl in great cosmetic and running condition. I put 1k miles on it and the whole time it has run great; however, I changed the oil and filter at 19,800 miles (installed both of them correctly and to the right levels with bike on the center stand). The next time running the bike after the oil change it started running like crap. It would start and idle relatively fine, however the engine would bog down from 3-4k and then rev high. The video explains it a little more- I seriously would like some help as I do not want to spend too much more $ on this bike. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXvOrh4gAd4
 
The oil change almost certainly didn't cause this. Either it's a coincidence or you bumped something else while doing maintenance. But just for kicks: what kind of oil did you put in it?

Could be an electrical issue... if the R/R and battery are not putting out enough juice, then the coils don't fire as they should. Try topping off the battery with a charger and see if that helps.

Most likely, your fuel/air intake path sprung a leak and now the engine is running very lean with the throttle open. Check that the airbox is sealed, all carbs boots are secure, and that the o-rings under the intake boots are intact.
 
Oh, I just noticed this was your first post. Welcome!

I should have preceded my post above by asking: what maintenance have you done to the bike since you've owned it? Unless you personally know and trust the previous owner, the bike is probably decades behind its regular maintenance and you should assume that all of it needs to be done. Here's the starting point to everything you need to know about your bike: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=196338
 
You said in the video that you did something to the air filter or airbox correct? If so are you sure that the airbox is sealed correctly? The oil change didn't cause that so if the airbox is the only other thing you messed with then that is probably where your issue is.
 
Oh and just an FYI the idle speed adjustment knob is between the #2 and #3 carbs on the airbox side. The adjustment on the cable is just to adjust the slack out of the cable.
 
Wow! Thanks for the input guys! I will have to try those thing tomorrow and post back. The oil was 10w-40. The guy who owned it before me treated it extremely well- new cam head gasket, new regulator, couple of turn signals, and all fluids are good for another 25k miles (except for oil which he changed every 2k) and fixed the odometer. This guy is an engineer for IBM and a good family friend (although he only had the bike for 3 years)
 
Do a quick test just to get a baseline. That stall is unusual so just want to rule out electrical. Quick test is in my signature report all 6 voltages.
 
jbthomp said:
Oh and just an FYI the idle speed adjustment knob is between the #2 and #3 carbs on the airbox side. The adjustment on the cable is just to adjust the slack out of the cable.
Click to expand...

I seem to remember that you said in the video that the bike runs poorly (or changes speed) when you turn the handlebars..this may have lead to that issue...:|
 
The oil was 10w-40
Click to expand...

Out of curiosity, what kind of 10W-40? There are only two kinds that you could put in this bike:

1) Motorcycle-specific oil (expensive)
2) Shell Rotella 15W-40 for diesel engines (standard or synthetic, cheap)

Any conventional motor oil for cars is right out. It's bad for the clutch and won't protect the transmission as well (from what I've read).
 
the 10w-40 was mobil1 full synthetic car oil (which I'm fine with bc it doesn't have energy conserving or special additives.) I took out the air filter again and noticed that I had forgotten to hook the close end of the filter! PROBLEM FIXED! So happy- I went for a rev happy test drive and it felt awesome again. Now Im just going to focus on resetting my idle correctly w/ the correct cable tension.
 
Rochmn said:
the 10w-40 was mobil1 full synthetic car oil (which I'm fine with bc it doesn't have energy conserving or special additives.) I took out the air filter again and noticed that I had forgotten to hook the close end of the filter! PROBLEM FIXED! So happy- I went for a rev happy test drive and it felt awesome again. Now Im just going to focus on resetting my idle correctly w/ the correct cable tension.
Click to expand...

Fully synthetic 10w 40 car oil !!! check the spec of this oil, it needs to be for a wet clutch, you may find your clutch start slipping.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

drewandkellie
Cluster lighting bulbs
Replies
3
Views
87
drewandkellie
drewandkellie
DimitriT
Weak idle until hot
2
Replies
31
Views
635
DimitriT
DimitriT
P
Fluid leaking from exhaust
Replies
4
Views
86
rphillips
R
T
1979 GS750 running problems
Replies
8
Views
192
crazyramen
crazyramen
R
Need some Carb Advice
Replies
5
Views
160
RoZuki1100
R
Back
Top