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Engine is out, what things do you normally look for?

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So I got the engine out and on the table.
Going to check the valves this week.
Will be putting in new plugs and oil change.
Rebuilding the carbs since I'm adding pods and 4to1 exhaust.

What other things should I replace while it's easy to get to? Just not familiar with old Suzuki motors, any parts that "normally" get changed when the motor is out?

Motor has 39k miles and ran very well before I pulled it out. Clutch felt good, pulled strong to redline, no smoke or oil burning, starts easy, electrical has already been upgraded.

1980 GS1000E
 
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Any oil leaks? This would be the time to take care of those. How is the oil consumption? Only if needed, this would also be the time to replace valve stem seals and other gaskets that would require taking the head off. However, if this is not an issue then I wouldn't mess with it until necessary.

BTW, why do you have the engine out of the frame?

Just re-read that last line. Nevermind.......
 
alke46 said:
Any oil leaks? This would be the time to take care of those. How is the oil consumption? Only if needed, this would also be the time to replace valve stem seals and other gaskets that would require taking the head off. However, if this is not an issue then I wouldn't mess with it until necessary.

BTW, why do you have the engine out of the frame?

Just re-read that last line. Nevermind.......
Click to expand...


Really the only oil leak is from the valve cover gasket (since it needs changed I was going to check valves.). Head gasket is good. The previous owner said he never checked the valve clearance and he owned it for around 3yrs, putting 8k miles on it. He only upgraded the electrical, did regular oil changes, chain and tires.

Engine is out because I'm modifying the frame and fully painting the bike.
 
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But if he rebuilds the head, won't he also have to replace the base gasket? That's why I said if it is not leaking around the base, I would leave it alone.
 
As I said, it was running very well, just the valve cover gasket is leaking. How often do cam guides and chains wear out?
On the CX500 my son bought, the chain and guides are a problem but is a cheap repair. On the Suzuki GS?s, cam chain and guides are crazy expensive.
Looks like it won?t be until next week before I get time to open it up. I?ll post some pics. My goal is to have it built by Labor Day.
 
winmag4582001 said:
As I said, it was running very well, just the valve cover gasket is leaking. How often do cam guides and chains wear out?
On the CX500 my son bought, the chain and guides are a problem but is a cheap repair.
Click to expand...
Almost never, unless something goes wrong with the oil feed to the cams or the owner is a ham-fisted monkey who thrashes the bike every time it runs. Cam chains get subjected to accelerative stress like any other component, but in a bike that does lots of cruising miles, they go on forever.
I replaced the cam chain in mine simply because it was apart and might as well, kind of thing. I needn't have bothered If I was on a really tight budget, because the old one measured up as being barely worn.
 
Grimly said:
Almost never, unless something goes wrong with the oil feed to the cams or the owner is a ham-fisted monkey who thrashes the bike every time it runs. Cam chains get subjected to accelerative stress like any other component, but in a bike that does lots of cruising miles, they go on forever.
I replaced the cam chain in mine simply because it was apart and might as well, kind of thing. I needn't have bothered If I was on a really tight budget, because the old one measured up as being barely worn.
Click to expand...

Thank you. That?s the kind of info I?m looking for. How often does the valve clearance need to be checked? The previous owner said he never checked them and put around 8k miles on it.
 
You should check them roughly every 4000 miles. If he's never checked them then you'll do well to do so now
 
If the bike has been idle for a length of time there could be a sticky layer of sludge on the oil pan/sump plate.
It might be a good time to consider dropping that and cleaning it and the oil pump inlet screen.
Check all the oil seals and clean the contact area for the main earth/ground strap.
Be systematic with the cover screws. There are different lengths so make note of what goes where.
 
So I checked valve clearance.... For the most part they were all between .07-.08mm.
Except the two intake valves on the center cylinders. One was .13mm, the other .11mm. Both had a 2.60 shim, ordered two 2.65 shims.
Any reason as to why the two center intakes are set so wide? Cam lobes look completely fine and spring resistance feels good.
 
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Previous previous owner used the wrong procedure to measure valve clearances.

Which method did you use?

Cam chain stretch has a spec in the manual. X length over y pins
 
winmag4582001 said:
So I checked valve clearance.... For the most part they were all between .07-.08mm.
Except the two intake valves on the center cylinders. One was .13mm, the other .11mm. Both had a 2.60 shim, ordered two 2.65 shims.
Any reason as to why the two center intakes are set so wide? Cam lobes look completely fine and spring resistance feels good.
Click to expand...

Methods include motion pro type tool to depress buckets, and zip tie to hold valves open enabling you to grab the shim. Which method did you use.

Another consideration is whether you were able to check two valves without rotating the crank, or if you rotated the crank for each valve. The idea there is that the neighboring bucket/ shim would not be pushing up on the cam giving you an incorrect measurement on the one you're checking. Maybe that's confusing, but someone else may chime in with a simpler way to explain it.
 
The way I checked it:
Rotate the motor to the proper cam position, checked with feeler gauge, rotate 180? and checked again. Did that for each valve. Used the little valve compressor tool thing that I borrowed from a friend to remove the disc and document the thickness.
Just the two center cylinder intakes had a lot of gap. All the others were at the upper end of spec.
 
Big T said:
Previous previous owner used the wrong procedure to measure valve clearances.

Which method did you use?

Cam chain stretch has a spec in the manual. X length over y pins
Click to expand...

Just visually looking and feeling the cam chain, it looks to be in very good shape.

I agree with the possibility that the previous previous owner may have had an issue on those two. If the motor was in the bike with the tank on and carbs on, it would be a real PIA to get to those two. With the motor out, it?s easy to work on.
 
I look for a way to get it back in... no? :cool:

Valve adjustment - #1
Timing chain tensioner working, adjusted
I have mine in pieces and my guides/chain look really well (unknown age)
I have to replace the head (posted) because of something else but aside from re-sealing from the block up, valve adjusting and syncing the carbs, I'm not replacing anything.

Disclaimer: I am replacing/rebuilding the cylinder head so adjusting the valves is a gimmie. But if you have the engine out, it's so much easier to do it now
 
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