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82 GS650GL - won't start with out "Starting fluid" when cold

  • Thread starter Thread starter IluvmyGS
  • Start date Start date
I

IluvmyGS

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First of all, let me express my appreciation to all fellow GS's mates in this forum with all the help and knowledge that they share so I have a wonderful bike running and there will be another classic GS on the road.

As state in the subject line, my GS is not starting when in cold (especially in the morning when I am ready to go to work), It keeps turning and turning without running until i give her 2 spray of starting fluid in the air box.

So, would you please kind enough to share with me what is possibility for this issue/problem?:confused:

If this question has been asked before, then please forgive me for asking this again.

Thank you all!

PS. Once it runs, everything is fine and I do not see anything wrong with it at all. it runs very smooth, no hic up or what so ever :)
 
sounds like the pilot idle could be a little clogged, or a bit lean. you could also have weak spark.
 
Clean the carbs. Pilots jets sound like they are clogged. Thye must be completely cleaned out. The holes are tiny, it's usually easier and less agravationg to just replace them.
 
This may not be your same issue, but my 80 GS850GL was doing the exact same thing, and I needed fluid to get it going every morning. Then I read on here that you put a little air pressure through the petcock or carb overflow, it would be easier to start. (I'm not sure which without looking tonight) I just know which one to do it to. To this day, it has always worked, and I put away the starting fluid, which is awful for engines. I don't know exactly what makes it work other than supplying pressure to the petcock to fill the bowls and not having to crank the engine to build pressure. Give it a try, can't hurt. Warning::::Not much pressure, the person who posted says he blows in it by mouth, I use low pressure from my compressor.
 
I would start with the coil mod and rebuilding your carbs. Which a lot of us has done. ALWAYS check the gap when you put plugs in. Lately, on cold mornings, I have done this routine: turn on the petcock, wait about 30 seconds, and then use the 2 hand starting technique, which is playing with the choke with the left hand while simultaneously pushing start with the other. 59 degrees this morning and the bike started in 5 seconds.
 
Not to offend anyone at all, but are you using the choke?
Is the choke cable actually pulling the choke plungers on all carbs?

I always like to start with basics!!

Cheers,
~John
 
Apologies if you know this this, but the throttle must be closed fully and the choke out fully when you start cold. If you goose the trottle while starting with choke open it just hangs. I think its mentioned in the handbook as well.
And dont ask me how I know this!
 
Wow....Thanks for all the responses.

1. I did replace new plugs and all the plugs are gap correctly according to the mannual.
2. I did choke it and choke cable pulled the choke plungers on all carbs.

Like I said, once it is running, then it is fine with idling and run very smooth. So, it might not be issue with pilot jet.

What is the relationship between valves clearance vs hard to start when cold? would someone please share thought on this?

It's seen like that carb might not get enough fuel to start. Should I turn the petcock on at prime and let carb fills with fuel and try it that way?

There is no "off" position on the petcock. It is either "Reserve" on the left hand side, "On" pointing down and "P R I"(i think" on the right hand side.

Thank you all!
 
Matchless said:
Apologies if you know this this, but the throttle must be closed fully and the choke out fully when you start cold. If you goose the trottle while starting with choke open it just hangs. I think its mentioned in the handbook as well.
And dont ask me how I know this!
Click to expand...

that's odd, since when I start the bike cold on choke I have to blip the throttle a bit to get it up to 3K rpm, otherwise the bike chugs along at about 1k rpm and tries to die.

And yes, I cleaned the hell out of my carbs. I do suspect my valves are in need of new shims though.
 
Sorry bout the petcock confusion, but I have a retarded backwards petcock. Even though it's "new" and even though it fits, its either on and feeding gas, or off, like old timey petcocks from way back when. When I discovered my new petcock was feeding gas through the vacuum port, even with the engine off, I resorted to turning it off every time I got off the bike and shut it down. Otherwise, you'll end up with a gallon of gas where the oilshould be, in your crankcase. Don't ask, just pass the matches.
 
IluvmyGS said:
What is the relationship between valves clearance vs hard to start when cold? would someone please share thought on this?

It's seen like that carb might not get enough fuel to start. Should I turn the petcock on at prime and let carb fills with fuel and try it that way?
Click to expand...
well the easiest way to test if it's a fuel issue is to try starting it on the PRI setting.. if it's starting just fine like that, then, yes, i would suspect it's a fuel issue. if it doesn't make a difference check your valve clearences and spark, if you have weak spark you will run fine once it's started but start hard.

valves being out of spec will cause all sorts of problems, if they are leaking or opening too early or too late the cylinder will not get very good power, and may or may not get any power at all.
 
Used to have a little 5hp Petter deisel stationary engine that had a set throttle setting. Used to have to give to cold start and 2 quirts of 'easy start' to get the thing running but it ran sweet as a nut once started, ticked over all seemed well.

Stripped it down to find bent push rods, fuel injector not injecting correctly and so much carbon that I was amazed that the thing ran. Overhauled the top end and it never needed easy start again.

I'd start with the choke units and check that they are doing there job, then the fuel supply and all things carburettor. Then check valve clearances and do a compression test to see what thats like. There may be something more sinister going on here thats why she don't want to start.

Suzuki mad
 
fallous said:
that's odd, since when I start the bike cold on choke I have to blip the throttle a bit to get it up to 3K rpm, otherwise the bike chugs along at about 1k rpm and tries to die.
Click to expand...

With full choke and throttle closed you should run much higher refs than 1k, easily above 2k. Never really checked mine as I start by slowly pushing in the choke once she is running, give it a bit of time to warm up and only once the choke is in fully and idle sits at 1k start riding.
The joys of having carbs compared to fuel injection! In winter time you notice the difference.
Hope your solution is easy, good luck!
 
Since it fires right up with ether, we know it's a fuel problem.

A properly tuned GS should never need throttle to start or to stay running. Either you're opening the throttle (which effectively cancels the choke setting) or your carbs have problems. Once it starts, you should be able to regulate r.p.m. entirely by using the choke control.

As always, if your valves aren't set properly, and/or there's any question of intake sealing, it's premature to mess with the carbs at all.
 
Matchless said:
With full choke and throttle closed you should run much higher refs than 1k, easily above 2k. Never really checked mine as I start by slowly pushing in the choke once she is running, give it a bit of time to warm up and only once the choke is in fully and idle sits at 1k start riding.
The joys of having carbs compared to fuel injection! In winter time you notice the difference.
Hope your solution is easy, good luck!
Click to expand...

I do, once I get the bike running. Full choke, start, blip throttle, gets to 3K, then no throttle and choke will hold it there. If the choke starts releasing and I get down to 1200rpm or so, I grab choke and pull. I've got a 50/50 chance of it bogging and wanting to die or revving back up. Blip throttle, jumps to 3K like it should. This only happens on cold start.
 
So, with full choke, you should not touch the throttle at all? just pull clutch handle and hit start button?

I pull the throttle with full choke engate and it works. So, I am a little confuse here...:confused:
 
IluvmyGS said:
So, with full choke, you should not touch the throttle at all? just pull clutch handle and hit start button?

I pull the throttle with full choke engate and it works. So, I am a little confuse here...:confused:
Click to expand...

I mentioned that to Steve when I visited him. He said I was pulling too much choke. And he was right. i was pulling it all the way out, and I had ot crack the throttle to start it. Now I pull it about 1/3 - 1/2, and just press start.
 
Some bikes depending on how they are tuned and how cold they are since the last ride may need less choke. Each rider knows his bikes sweet spot!
With a fully pulled out choke definitely use no throttle at all to start and only ride or start hitting the throttle once the choke is fully back in.

The choke gives a richer mixture, and higher idling for starting and while the throttle idle circuit is independant of that, gives the proper mixture for riding on the throttle up to about 3k. If you use both at the same time you are sure to get bogging down and other unevenness.

The owners manual states this method of cold starting quite clearly and I have come accross many people who are not aware of this. It is not mentioned in any of the service manuals as far as I know.;)

If this does not work as explained, you should start looking at your carbs as the other posters have suggested.
Using Prime on the petcock before starting will prove if your float levels are dropping overnight.

If you have not done so check the voltage at your coils as well, just in case you also have a weak spark when cranking.
 
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