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exhaust temps

  • Thread starter Thread starter scrapper
  • Start date Start date
S

scrapper

Guest
I was wondering, if when you run your bike in place and rev it a little, for say 90 to 150 sec , should the exhaust be to hot to touch or warm? Would the hot to touch be running lean or should it be that hot? I did search but didn't see an answer. I was having problems with carbs after cleaning and new o-rings and intake boots. I put carb rebuild kits in. The main jets were set at 115 instead of the 110 that came with the kit. I found that 110 is correct. Bike wasn't running right but now it is almost impossible to get running and keep running. I am fixing to check the valve setting but I am wondering if there is still a carb problem. It is idling high then will drop and die if you rev it up it hangs. some poping. hoping it is just the valves need adjusted. I don't have any idea. I am reading up from new clymers manual. The haynes I got from World of power sports was the wrong one, even though the guy insisted that my bike was in it? Had to wait 3 days for the wrong bikebook. :-k. Anyway just trying to make sure that I am doing this right. I did bench sync but have not sync with a vaccum gauge when I dipped them and put in the o-ring kit. Thanks for any help. 82 gs650L
 
hi! im from the monticello champaign area so were basically neighbors


for your concern you need some more details
what do the plugs look like?
Black smoke at the tail pipe?

If the plugs are white unscrew your pilot screw
If the plugs are black screw in your pilot screw
When is the last time you checked your valves?
 
I have never checked them. I only have had the bike a year. I will be taking the safety course in about 2 weeks. I only have a permit. I did not relize all the things you need to do to a bike.I will check the plugs, they were running a little rich. That was before the the rebuild kits.The exhaust seems to have some black stuff on the inside.I just noticed it, not sure how long it has been there.You are about the closest person to me that I have talked to.There are a couple more to the west around Springfield and beyond. I was hoping to have my licence and a good running bike before this. Good to hear from someone closer than a couple states away.
 
The pipes at the HEAD of the motor will be EXTREMELY hot seconds after you start the bike. As they move away from the head, they'll cool a bit, and then get hot again at the joints/collector (if you have a 4-1 header) But after a minute or so of idling, they'll still be too warm to touch comfortably just about ANYWHERE on the pipe. I do suggest you take a look at your plugs, but ideally you cant really do any real plug chop tests untill you have a permit, as you will need to ride the bike..:)
 
Hi, I got a permit but don't trust the bike. I just checked the plugs and they are wet and oily or sooty? Sooty I think, it was really wet. I turned the air screw to 1 1/2 turns had them open about 3 to 3 1/2. It still doesn't want to start. I checked the spark and it was blue , but barely there. I am thinking electrical problem. I cut back the plug wire ends and screwed the tips back on. I did this before I checked the spark. I can get the coils off of a 700 E, they should work on my bike I think. Setup looks the same. I cleaned some of the electrical connections a couple of weeks ago but not all. I am going to get some foaming engine cleaner and use my pressure washer on it. It is really dirty. then try the replace all the ends of the wires with spade blades. I really dont see much of a difference in the fact the round ones are round and the spade ones are flat? If I turn on the key will the voltage at the coil wires be 12 volts or does it have to be running? I guess I had better get reading the manual.:eek:
 
scrapper said:
Hi, I got a permit but don't trust the bike. I just checked the plugs and they are wet and oily or sooty? Sooty I think, it was really wet. I turned the air screw to 1 1/2 turns had them open about 3 to 3 1/2. It still doesn't want to start. I checked the spark and it was blue , but barely there. I am thinking electrical problem. I cut back the plug wire ends and screwed the tips back on. I did this before I checked the spark. I can get the coils off of a 700 E, they should work on my bike I think. Setup looks the same. I cleaned some of the electrical connections a couple of weeks ago but not all. I am going to get some foaming engine cleaner and use my pressure washer on it. It is really dirty. then try the replace all the ends of the wires with spade blades. I really dont see much of a difference in the fact the round ones are round and the spade ones are flat? If I turn on the key will the voltage at the coil wires be 12 volts or does it have to be running? I guess I had better get reading the manual.:eek:
Click to expand...
Yes the manual is your best friend sir. Also, only work one thing at a time. If you run around trying to check multiple things at once, you're never going to know which is the more likely culprit. And, with your plugs, please post up a pic. Black and sooty and black and oily mean two different things. One is pretty cheap and easy to fix, the other will likely require that you pull the head to fix either your valve seals or piston rings. A rich mixture will be black and sooty, dry, fluffy looking. burning oil and the plug will be black and shiney and wet looking. Dont be discouraged however, a poorly lighting chamber and the plug will be wet with gas, and sooty. You can SMELL the plug (yeah seriously) oil and gas smell very different.
 
They were loaded with gas, that is why I think it was sooty, the gas made the soot wipe off. I smelled the gas without any problem. I can get some pictures later on but the plugs are almost new and wiped clean without any problem. Before I put the rebuild kits in they were dry and sooty.
 
depends with the how hard it is to start it could be wet from gas and you can do some plug chops to get it running if its anywhere near black no matter what try leaning the out like you did and if they are wet they are pretty fouled i would replace them and try again
 
you can try to shoot some carb cleaner in the plugs to defoul them
 
I will give it a try. That makes sense. It will start to run after setting for a little bit, then it will stop and nothing.
 
the start and run is because the plugs start to dry... when starting it hold it wide open and crank the fuel doesnt flow when wide open cranking that could help it start if the plugs are fouled
 
your adjustment screws are WAY to far open. First, they arent AIR screws on those carbs. The VM design had a screw for air and a screw for fuel. The BS series, like on your bike, only have an OVERALL adjustment screw. Turning them OUT richens the mixture, you need to back it off. Set them at TWO turns out at first and that should be a good starting point for fine tuning from there. Once the bike is running, warm, and idling fine without choke, you need to adjust the screws for best/highest idle. one at a time, turn the screws in to lightly seated, then turn them out SLOWLY untill the bike speeds up idle, once it stops speeding up, turn the screw back about an 1/8 of a turn and leave it. You have to do this fairly slowly as it will take the bike a second to react to any adjustment you make. Once you finish with that one, move on to the next and so on...

Also, WHY did you change your main jet size? Do you run pods or a different than stock pipe? This will help out to know this info as well..
 
twiggy2cents said:
the start and run is because the plugs start to dry... when starting it hold it wide open and crank the fuel doesnt flow when wide open cranking that could help it start if the plugs are fouled
Click to expand...
Thats NOT going to help the bike start. If you have to start the bike with "choke", opening the throttle at all will disable the choke. It will also flood the bike out if its not warmed up. It sounds to me like his problem is in the adjustment screws at the moment, hes got them set way too rich.
 
i didnt realize it took choke to start it. and wide open shouldnt flow any fuel due to no vacuum to draw fuel up
 
twiggy2cents said:
i didnt realize it took choke to start it. and wide open shouldnt flow any fuel due to no vacuum to draw fuel up
Click to expand...
There's always a slight vaccum in the CV carbs because there is essentially a primary AND a secondary valve. Unlike the early VM series, in which the throttle cable was directly linked to the slides and you turning them caused them to lift, the vaccum carbs have a primary butterfly valve that opens when you turn the throttle, then, as vaccum builds, the slides lift. But, because when you first open the butterflys the slides are still sitting, they effectivly block part of the throat, allowing the motor to retain more vaccum when you "whack" the throttle open. This design was intended to eleviate the throttle bog commonly associated with the mechanical carbs due to the instant loss of vaccum when slapping the throttle open. It worked, to a point, but IMO vaccum carbs arent as fun or effective as mechanicals on hopped up bikes.
 
I don't know why it had 115 mains in it but the spec's are 110, and that is what came in the carb kits. I just went and got some carb cleaner,i will give it a try. The screws were set to 3 to 31/2 turns, then I was reading the specs and it said 1 1/2 turns open. I then changed them to 1 1/2. It still didn't want to fire. I checked the spark on the right side and it was a really nice spark. I can't help wandering if that is the reason the pipes were only warm on the left side.
 
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