1983 GS1100ED Refurb turned Restore ???

[posplayr]

Damper Rod assembly

OK Here are some details of assembly of the forks:

The wave washers go in from underneath the same direction as the damper tube collar.



Then the collar


Here I'm starting assembly after having used a long piece of all thread and clean blue paper towels with WD 40 to ram rod clean all of the fork parts. Notice there are now 4 holes now drilled in the damper rod; I added two.



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Pit Fall to Avoid:

When I removed the damper rod bolts, one of the washers remained stuck up in the bottom of the fork. No problems I'll just keep track of it rather than try and dig it out. I got all the way through the cleaning, sand blasting, painting, with the washer still stuck. However when I used the all thread (with paper towel) as plunger, I can dislodged on top the all thread, but I did not notice until I had re torqued the damper rods and full assembled the shocks On the bike. I though I was going to have to disassemble the whole thing again.

Moral of the story is to remove the washers even if you have to dig them out and then make sure they go in on assembly.

[posplayr]

Steering Tube Assembly

Here are some staged parts after painting with Por-15 Hardnose Dark Grey paint and detailed black bolts. Those are All-Ball Steering head set with grease seals.




Here is the lower race installed.


Here is the upper



Driving the triple T lower race with a 1 1/4" piece of PVC and using the old race .




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[posplayr]

Steering Tube, Forks Continued

Here is what the frame looked like after my best attempts as painting it with a silver Por-15 engine paint and then clear coating. This has bee just about the hardest part of the restoration. Now I know why people powder coat the frame; It is too hard to paint and make it look good. This is passable from what you see when the bike is fully assembled.


And here is the Triple T installed after tightening the bearings down in the steering tube.



Replaced rubber parts in the air system.



Freshly painted and clear coated wheels, new Pirelli Sport Demons (130-90-17 and 100-90-19) with newly painted and resurfaced rotors. New All-Ball wheel bearings



continued.....

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[Jethro]

Wow, you are doing things the way I would for sure. Nice suspension upgrades, it's going to be a whole new bike- literally!

[posplayr]

More Bike porn.....

OK here are the forks installed, with the fork brace, wheel on with brake calipers mocked up.

Since the handle bars are on, we know that:

a.) Emulators were dropped in: (left at the factory styreet setting)
b.) Added 15 wt oil and pumped to remove air
c.) Pushed forks up to fulled compressed and measured oil level (stock 7.7 in from the top
d.) Installed springs (with out any cuts or spacers)
e.) Changed o-rings on the upper plungers and installed the upper spring tension adjusters to teh lowers setting .




OK Starting to crank now..... Inner fender wells newly painted flat black.




I got a spare GS1100ED frame from Rapid Ray so it help considerably to sort out how to put the tail back on. All bolts were cleaned and rubber parts treated whether new or not (not everything was new as some parts off teh old were in very good condition).






Swing arm and rear brake level installed.




continued.....

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[posplayr]

Here is the completed rear tail section (without the body parts).



Despite a little initial fear I would scratch them, I could not hold myself back from installing the "functional art".



This is where I was as of Sunday nite, notice the wiring harness is also draped on the frame.




Rear Wheel Installed with hanging rear caliper



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[posplayr]

Brakes

OK I started to do final assembly on the brakes. To start off with all parts were originally stripepd down and sand blasted, cleaned touroughly and then acid etched , taped off and painted with Por-15 Hard nose Dark grey.




Parts are staged with the newly refurbished disk rotors. There are two sets there. The black ones will go on to the GS750EX (later). I'm also going to try the Harbor Freight Brake bleeder.





Starting final assembly on the front calipers.




Continued.......
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[posplayr]

Brakes II

Here are the completely assembled frnt calipers but without the pads;



What No pads.....

Yea because I got the wrong parts shipped and I only just realized this. Apparently the sintered Ferado pads are discontinued. I'm now getting teh Platnium all the way around. (I hope) FDB 217ST was the right number for the front.



OK Well at least I got the rear pads right (in Platnium) and they are mounted.



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[rapidray]

Hey Jim, I couldn't help but notice the Tecate can in one of your pictures! When it comes to assembling, brakes & beer DON'T match! LOL!! It is all looking nice! Ray.

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Finished Clutch Hub

I previously posted pictures of the inner hub, but never finished . Here is the plates and fibers install (PO had put in new fibers and the plates were cleaned and put back in swapping out a couple from another set that looked better.

Added the larger APE clutch nut showing the smaller OEM nut in my hand.



With alternating OEM and Barrett (sp?) Springs

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Gas Tank Refurb

Before I stripped the tank I wanted to locate where teh decals go. I used a file to notch the front and rear of the tank so a string could be used to find center across the center line. I used a peice of 11"x17" paper folded in 1/2 to transfer the locations of the decals.




Did a little pencile tracing from the raised Suzuki Decals



Saved the pattern away in a safe place for later.


Used my BOSCHE orbital sander with some 60 grit pads to take the paint off.



If you are following this thread make sure that there is plenty of special equipment avaliable that comes in the red can.....

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Gas Tank Continued

I stripped two tanks, the GS1100ED tank as well as a rotted spare 80 GS750 tank to use as a paint trial. I also sand blasted the bottom/seam of the gas GS1100 gas tank as it was hard to sand completely.



Here is GS1100ED tank after POR-15 on the outside and ready to get a coating of the gas tank sealer on the inside. After stripping the outside it is real hard to keep both the inside and outside from rusting unless you bath the entire tan k in an electrolysis bath (or acid bath), so it is best to paint the outside and then etch the inside and dry and coat it as quick as you can.




Here I'm showing prepping getting ready for the rather messy inside tank coating job.



No pictures but I also disassembled and tested the sender units.



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[posplayr]

Jethro

Thanks for the comments. I have plenty more pictures for the engine even though I have to do some more rework (err I had to tear it back apart). Gotta run and do rear master and handlebars right now(i.e. tonite).

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[Sunburn]

Looking good. Looking forward to seeing it complete. Keep up the posts....

[Guest]

You missed a spot Jim! :shock:
My bike will look like crap but still out run yours. 8-[
Wanna trade some motor work for some body work? \\/

Really though. Top notch work!!!!!!