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    Chucks simplified spreadsheet

    Tools required::

    Pen, Paper, Straight edge

    Process::

    1.. Measure and record the current gaps on all valves
    2.. If the gap say .03 ( as in the example for INTAKE #2 ) then youll
    need to INCREASE that valves gap by .02...record that as noted in
    the example. Record what amount of change you need for each
    valve.
    3.. Pull each valves shim and note what size it is..Measure it with
    calipers because wear may have it different from the printed
    size on it..VERIFY IT.
    4.. Put the shim back in after noting what size it is on the sheet
    under CURRENT SHIM..Do this to all valves.
    5.. Now you can look at what each cylinder CURRENT GAP and CURRENT
    SHIM is and decide if the gap is good or bad. Also this will tell you
    can shuffle around.
    6.. Once you have shuffled shims around, record which shim is in
    each bucket under NEW SHIM.
    7.. Remeasure each valve gap and record that under NEW GAP.

    As you can see in the example on the sheet I posted, INTAKE 1 measured .05 ( requires no adjustment) and the CURRENT SHIM was 2.75.

    So I made the notations as follows::
    The CURRENT GAP was .05
    The CURRENT SHIM was 2.75
    The change in gap that I needed was 0
    I DID NOT insttall a NEW SHIM ( the 2.75 was perfect )
    And my NEW GAP is still at .05

    Intake #2 was a different story. I measured and made the following notations:

    The CURRENT GAP was at .03 ( It needs .02 MORE gap )
    The CURRENT SHIM was a 2.72..so this tells me I need to use a 2.70 to achieve that .05 gap.
    Installed a 2.70 shim and noted it under NEW SHIM and remeasured.
    Verified the gap is now at .05 and noted that under NEW GAP.



    Just fill in the bike model, the mileage, and date at the bottom and put it in with the rest of that bikes papers. ALSO NOTE..The NEW SHIM will tell you what shim is in each bucket next time you do an adjustment..just look at the sheet under NEW SHIM and thats what your final adjustment shim was when you finished the job.

    ALWAYS CHECK SHIMS ON A DEAD COLD ENGINE



    Last edited by chuck hahn; 07-29-2014, 08:46 PM.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    #2
    very good, simple enough to understand and keeps a good record of adjustments for comparison when doing future shim checks
    1978 GS1085.

    Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

    Comment


      #3
      Simplicity is the key..least that was my thinking when i came up with it. Keep It Simple...Stupid!!!!!
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment


        #4
        Hopefully one has enough shims on hand to get the ideal gap.Then it's compromise the gap or order shims.
        Good winter job,don't want to wait on shims during riding season.

        1978 GS1000C
        1979 GS1000E
        1980 GS1000E
        2004 Roadstar

        Comment


          #5
          I check mine in the winter or first thing in the spring when it just starts to show signs of warming up again. Get with Ray at the shim club here and just swap out if he has what you need before you buy any from Suzuki.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment


            #6
            Man, you guys sure do like to complicate things.


            Life is too short to ride an L.

            Comment


              #7
              It's nice like that i agree. But, trying to keep that paper for a long period of time can cause it to wrinkle, tear, smudge (oil/gas/water), become lost, whatever. I'd much rather use the paper like that to record the information as I'm doing the work (and I do) and then put it into the computer for safekeeping and reference back to later.
              Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

              1981 GS550T - My First
              1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
              2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

              Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
              Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
              and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

              Comment


                #8
                Cowboy..I keep my insurance and registration in a zip lock baggie under the seat and thats where the sheet goes as well. Ive never had one get wet or any of the papers get damaged under the seat.

                Could use the glove compartment as well.

                Remeber the bikes that had the velcroed bag for the owners manual under a side cover?? You could make an arrangement like that as well. Plenty of hiding space behind one.
                MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                  Man, you guys sure do like to complicate things.
                  Indeed.

                  I prefer to just

                  1. Measure gap.

                  2. Is it < 0.4 (i.e., smallest feeler)?

                  2(a) - Yes, pull shim and replace with next size down.

                  2(b) - No. Sweet! Let it ride.

                  If you don't have any spare shims, then you can go further to:

                  3. Is it >0.8?

                  3.(a) - No. Then move along.
                  3. (b) - Yes. Cool, check that shim to see if it is worth shuffling, note the size.

                  Spreadsheets seem to be overkill when the math ends up with use a shim that's .05 thinner, or do nothing. Being able to swap/shuffle can help, but it not that complicated. In the example, I would not adjust a valve gap to .05. Just swap to the next size down to get in the .07 - .08 range.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    BUT the closer you can get them to being all the same..and i shoot for the .05MM mid range..the better balanced the cylinders will be across the board.
                    Last edited by chuck hahn; 01-23-2013, 10:51 PM.
                    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by MisterCinders View Post
                      2. Is it < 0.4 (i.e., smallest feeler)?
                      If your smallest feeler is 0.4 (even assuming that is millimeters), you are going to have some NOISY valves.



                      Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                      Simplicity is the key..least that was my thinking when i came up with it. Keep It Simple...Stupid!!!!!
                      You want EASY? Just look down there, you don't have to figure out ANYTHING (except how to follow instructions).

                      .
                      sigpic
                      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                      Family Portrait
                      Siblings and Spouses
                      Mom's first ride
                      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I got my own way and it works just fine...thanks anyway.
                        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                        Comment

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