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    sh775 installed

    after doing some tests it seemed my regulator was bad
    so i ordered up the sh775 and the triumph connectors

    got the regulator yesterday and set to work mounting it
    it took some rearranging
    but i managed to get everything on the same panel
    i welded some SS nuts to the back of the mounting bracket so everything would just screw on like before

    the connector that goes into my fuse block seems to be bad
    as if i wiggle it the headlight will come on and go off and it will kill the bike
    I'm going to cut it off and use some new spade connectors in its place

    i also did the coil relay at this point while i had everything apart
    i mounted the relay at the coils itself so i only had to run a 12+ to it and just plugged the existing coil+ into the relay as the switch for it

    starts up real nice and quick

    my meter which is tied into the headlight bucket shows 2.5 more volts then before
    was showing 9.5-10.3 now it idles at 12.3 ish
    i have to still check the voltage at the battery but before there was a 2v difference in readings from battery to the meter hooked at the headlight

    like i said it took some rearranging but everything fits nicely in the "same" area

    #2
    Yes, you got some electrical connection work to do. Out of morbid curiosity, how did you wire in the SH-775 /triumph connector stuff?
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

    Comment


      #3
      i cut the ends of the connectors off

      and hooked the 3 stator wires to the 3 wires in the left plug

      wired the large brown to the battery+ with a fuse in it
      wired the large black to the battery -

      Comment


        #4
        It will work that way but Posplayr convinced me that it is the wrong way to wire it and to go back to the original +12v feed that Suzuki used. I changed mine back and now see no advantage to the direct battery connection. The original feed is already fused with a 15A fuse through the fuse box. Three wire plug wired directly to the stator leads no particular order. The wires that diverted one stator wire through the headlight switch are abandoned. Brown lead to Red R/R feed for your original R/R. Black to battery ground. The brown wire is color coded for the British + wire, same as our red. I stand corrected on the color code.
        Last edited by OldVet66; 05-22-2014, 07:17 PM.
        '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

        Comment


          #5
          Nice job, OP.

          Originally posted by OldVet66 View Post
          The brown wire is color coded for the British + wire, same as our red.
          Positive is red in the UK, too. The brown for a + feed by Triumph is peculiar to them. Brown for a live wire on the mains is a European dictat, forced on the UK/Ireland by Brussels. We were quite happy with our own colours.
          Last edited by Grimly; 05-22-2014, 08:13 PM.
          ---- Dave
          79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
          80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
          79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
          92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

          Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

          Comment


            #6
            Charge the battery and retest.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #7
              apparently, the wire that i have the meter hooked up to in the headlight bucket (2 brown wires hooked together in a female not spade, the round connector) is putting out that low voltage
              when i check the yellow wire it shows 13

              and at the battery at 5k I'm getting 14.5

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by gs1100ez View Post
                ....

                and at the battery at 5k I'm getting 14.5
                That's the SH-775 doing its part nicely! Until you get your connections cleaned up, you're probably better off going to battery direct thru fuse. But, as oldvet66 said, into the harness is the better scheme.
                1981 gs650L

                "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                Comment


                  #9
                  i cut off the old main connector last night and put some spade connectors on each
                  it works good now

                  why is it better if it is tied into the harness?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by gs1100ez View Post
                    ....
                    it works good now

                    why is it better if it is tied into the harness?
                    Hopefully posplayr will explain this to you! meanwhile, get a quickee explanation here to get your juices flowing!

                    1981 gs650L

                    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Oh boy, got so confused reading pros and cons of each i stopped working on bike and started doing house projects but now Im ready to go back to bike. One question re sh 775 install with triumph connector on a 81 550, Is this correct- I use both brown wires from 775, one to the battery + with fuse, the other to harness T connection red wire, that leads into fuse box. Its isolated but next to a multi pin terminal with orange, orange white and orange green wires. Sound like the right red wire? Only use one black wire, tape up the other black.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Not quite there with the wiring.

                        The red wire that you need to connect to is on the other side of the fusebox. It's where the original R/R was connected. You only need ONE connection to the bike harness, putting one lead to the red wire and the other to the battery is not the way to do it. Remove the lead to the battery, just connect to the proper red wire.

                        The red wire that you are connected to is the one from the battery that feeds the MAIN fuse. After the main fuse, to continues to the ignition switch. Around the area of the airbox, the other feed joins it. THAT is where you need to connect your R/R output wire.

                        .
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                        Comment


                          #13
                          ok got it. thanks Steve. Just read my previous post- i was confused. Only one brown wire used. Power in is from the stator - power out to the red wire described above, from battery that feeds main fuse.

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