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    Polishing techniques

    I just got my engine case cover off because I need to replace a few things on my clutch. Thus it is a great time to polish the cover because it is looking pretty ugly.

    I have seen some people sand the heck out of them with less polish while other use less sanding and a lot polish. Some use paint stripper at times to start.

    What are some proven techniques?

    #2
    There are countless threads in the archives on this if you feel like looking...

    Basic method:
    -Strip off clear coat with paint remover

    -Sand out major corrosion marks with sandpaper or a use fiber grit wheel on a buffer/grinder. Work from coarse to fine, stopping at 350-400 grit.

    - Polish/buff using a sisal wheel and black polishing compound. The resulting brightness will be above that of OEM.

    - If a super bright chrome like finish is desired use a stitched buffing wheel with rogue next.
    Last edited by Nessism; 07-01-2015, 03:34 PM.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      I get my best results from:

      1: Wet sand, 1000 to 1500 to 2000 grit
      2: Mothers mag and aluminum polish on a felt dremel pad.
      3: Seal with wax or wizard brand sealer

      I tried a polish wheel on my grinder, but did not get the greatest result since you ideally need one wheel for each compound (only had 1) and I also had limited working room with the bench grinder.

      I also find brake cleaner is helpful for removing paint, I hate airplane stripper.

      My amateur polish job: see pic
      Attached Files

      Comment


        #4
        Nice outcome.

        May I ask if you know how long it will last? I mean without the factory coating wouldn't it quickly corrode?

        Would a simple application of wax after polishing stop/slow the corrosion? Or is there some super ju ju coating that can be used?

        Comment


          #5
          Yes, without a coating/sealant they will corrode really fast and a simple coat of wax will slow the process.

          The wax seems to do a good job, I did my side and cam covers 2 years ago and they are still looking good.

          For the forks I tried out a product called Wizards Motorcycle Power Seal. I read another post on this forum about how it is good stuff and creates an acrylic barrier.

          They make a clear-coat from Eastwood called Diamond Clear Gloss for Bare Metal which is an acrylic polymer, haven't used it yet but will experiment with it on smaller parts since I have a can.

          Hope this helps.

          Comment


            #6
            Very much, thanks.

            My '81 is finally to the point where doing some cosmetic stuff makes more sense.

            Comment


              #7
              USE WIZARDS POWER SEAL AND DO AWAY WITH THE CLEAR. Its just goona chip eventually and allow moisture to make the parts look like they did when you decided to polish them. Wax is virtually useless in durabilty and protection .

              Look the power seal up and read the label.

              As for my polishing process.

              1..Blast the parts free of all corrosion and clear left on them. Can use paint stripper too, but for me its too messy so the blast cabinet is the tool.

              2..Polish on the Eastwood buffer machine I have using BLACK MAGIC rouge. Its a cut / color rouge meaning it cuts the crud and polishes the metal all in one operation.


              3..Finish with the sewn cotton wheel and some Bushes Super Shine Aluminum Polish

              4...Clean parts with acetone soon as done to remove any rouge left on them and seal with Wizards Power Seal immediately.

              Heres some pics of the results. For informational purposes, these fork lowers took about 45 minutes each.. No hrs of sanding or all that other time sink stuff folks seem to want to do all the time.





              The Bushes polish...

              Last edited by chuck hahn; 07-06-2015, 06:22 PM.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

              Comment


                #8
                Wizards, got it.

                Nice results on the fork lowers and engine covers.

                Comment


                  #9
                  As the sealer yes. I just reapply each spring and they stay nice.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The polished look, looks great!, But how does one get the polished aluminum look?
                    Current Rides: 82 GS1100E, 00 Triumph 955 Speed Triple, 03 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 01 Honda GL1800, '15 Kawasaki 1000 Versys
                    Past Rides: 72 Honda SL-125, Kawasaki KE-175, 77 GS750 with total yosh stage 1 kit, 79 GS1000s, 80 GS1000S, 82 GS750e,82 GS1000S, 84 VF500f, 86 FZR600, 95 Triumph Sprint 900,96 Triumph Sprint, 97 Triumph Sprint, 01 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 07 Triumph Tiger 1050, 01 Yam YFZ250F
                    Work in progress: 78 GS1000, unknown year GS1100ES

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by limeex2 View Post
                      ..., But how does one get the polished aluminum look?
                      By polishing the aluminum.

                      See post #7.

                      .
                      sigpic
                      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                      Family Portrait
                      Siblings and Spouses
                      Mom's first ride
                      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        watch a bunch of You Tube videos for then techniques and theory. And note the link to the Black Magic I added to the post , That bar is like 2 inches square and maybe 10 to 12 inches long and weighs about 2 LBS at least. 1 new bar will do an entire bike easily.
                        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Sears sells black polishing compound. I use that and a sisal wheel.



                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

                          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I am restoring a pretty corroded '81 GS850G. I am using a buffing wheel on a portable polisher and brown cutting compound with good results. My question is how did you guys get the engine baffles polished. Every time I try to polish them the wheel catches and tries to rip the polisher out of my hands. Thanks in advance for the help.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Jackrabbit. To do the baffles I take a paint stick and fold a scotchbrite pad over it. Depending on how bad they are the scotchbrite pads come in different grits. A little bit of elbow wax and they come nice and clean. You can apply wax or sealer the same way, although wax will dissipate quickly with the heat. Some of the generic scotchbrite pads have no grit or lose it quickly, so you will have to go for the real thing here.

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