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I did the diode check with the ohm meter and it gave me a -356 on all three legs switched the probes and got a 1 on the far left side? is this -0.356V or what? Also i checked to see if voltage at the r/r With no power turned on but battery hooked up and the meter is reading 13V on all three r/r stator connections should current be flowing through this? It would be going directly to the stator and bypass the headlight switch, could this be my short as in a faulty r/r?
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FWIW, a diode tests is to determine whether or not a blocking diode is working or not. That means it is either open or shorted depending on polarity. Anything else and it is bad.Originally posted by Gs1000g View Post
A diode tester normally puts a voltage across the leads and so your meter measures the voltage drop across a unit under test (UUT). for a forward biased diode that is typically in the 0.5-1.1V range with an associated buzz. If it is reverse biased, then the meter should indicate open.
You can look at how your meter indicates the diode tests results; here is an example for FLUKE.
anything else is BROKE.
I usually do not recommend anybody to do this test, because if you need help you probably need too much help in order to interpret the results in the first place. If you know what you are doing, then there is no reason to even ask about the test results.
If you don't know what to expect from a test, why are you doing it?Originally posted by Gs1000g View Post
I believe I gave you an educated guess about how to proceed with diagnosing the system. I know what you should expect to see from these tests.
Last edited by posplayr; 02-06-2016, 02:25 PM.Comment
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ok pos,
I finally made it where the bike would run and went through the stator papers here are my numbers as follows
With new SPG, new wire and new connectors at every junction with soldering and crimping.
The positive lead voltage drop was 0.17
The negative lead voltage drop was 0.02
PHASE B
First ohm test results from legs are
1.2 per leg
1.2 per leg
1.3 per leg
Second test was OL
Third test with the AC Voltage on each leg i got
6.5 ACv
12 ACv
1.9 ACv
Given this information I need a stator? could this also be the reason my battery keeps draining?
Sounds like a new stator and r/r will be on their way this week.Comment
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What rpm was your ACv test done at? They should be even voltage.Originally posted by Gs1000g View PostComment
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4500-5000k I just used my throttle lock, it is quite handy for these test as my wife is less than enthused to stand there and hold the throttleOriginally posted by gearhead13 View PostComment
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You may remember that I don't think much of using an ohm meter for stator tests (it does so little to actually test the stator) and the only tests that are useful for a stator are the VAC "leg to leg" and "leg to ground" tests. "Leg to ground" seems to be the best predictor of a failed stator.Originally posted by Gs1000g View Post
In you case the 1.2 ohms across the board would indicate a "good" stator while teh AC leg to ground show teh stator is obviously cooked.
From this clear example, it should be clear that the ohmmeter tests are worse than worthless. They are exactly 180 degrees out WRONG.
I know the tests are in the stator pages, because:
- The OEM manuals have stator tests using an ohmmeter
- Frank left the ohmmeter tests into the stator pages as well as the R/R diode tests (not my decision, I would have left it out). His decision seemed to be that he was inclined to pay homage to the original stator pages rather than rewrite for improved troubleshooting efficiency. His specific comment was that it still applied to stock R/R's , knowingly or not that it does not apply to any more modern (SHUNT or SERIES R/R). When you couple the fact that it is a standard recommendation to switch to SERIES R/R or at the minimum a 6 wire Honda R/R. Leaving the stock 5wire SHUNT r/r tests in is adding more confusion that benefit.
Leg to ground should be zero VAC at any RPM especially 5K RPM.
More than likely what you are seeing is a stator that produces current at idle, but then starts to fail with higher RPM and heat. The result is a dead battery. Your R/R may or may not be good based on your measurements. To my mind it is academic as you should be changing to a SERIES unit.Last edited by posplayr; 02-07-2016, 03:23 PM.Comment
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I plan on buying a ricks stator and the series sh-775, this bike has always had a charging issue if it had sat for a while 4-5 days the battery would die and now that I know it's the stator I feel better about replacing the unit without throwing money down the drain, thanks posplayer the stator papers work I just had to get the bike where it would run and I could test it, I will report back after stator and r/r installComment
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You can count your blessings for the hard gooten knowledge in the revised Phase B stator pages. In recent memory there have been members that have gone around in circles due to the ambiguities in stator tests results for weeks on end. This one comes to mind:
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better stator tests were needed. I think it was Graham suggested the leg to ground tests as being the most reliable in his experience.
Psyguy's primary problem that was so vexing was an stator that worked at idle and when cold, but then would start to fail in operation and high temperatures/RPM.
Recognizing the problem, I developed this.
Last edited by posplayr; 02-07-2016, 04:34 PM.Comment
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Im just glad there was a definitive source of the problem. As of now I have a new ricks motorsports stator on the way and Im going ahead and upgrading the R/R to the SERIES Compu-fire R/R CF55402. Knowing that I now have high quality connectors a new SPG, and clean connections is also another piece of mind. With riding season around the corner I didn't want to risk cooking another battery or breaking down somewhere. Thanks again guys for all the help! Stator papers FTW!Comment
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My 1150 is tucked away for a few months, checked that new AGM battery and it was still sitting at 12.6v and when I hooked up the charger/maintainer it went straight on to maintain.
I will not ride now without having a voltmeter looking at me, it is a good feeling seeing 14v glowing there. With the new battery I have not had any more hot start problems; you may recall that my stator leads all read voltage to ground, approx 50% of the voltage between leads, and it is still charging at 14.2V at the battery, with a Compufire RR. I did buy another stator, but so far it is still in a box..
Roll on summer...
TrevorComment
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to be sure, something is wrong with either the stator or the measurement as the stator needs to be fully isolated from the engine and chassis ground.Originally posted by qcktvr View PostComment
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Well I got my new Compu-fire R/R in and the Ricks Stator, now I'm waiting on the stator cover gasket but since it's just sitting in the garage waiting to be installed so I decided to work on the connectors to get good quality connections, I was looking at the R/R plug and I realized it's a GM Delphi plug used in cars so I drove to Oreillys and bought the male connectors and here is what came up with
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Should be sealed enough after solder and the weathertight connectors to keep out corrosion and it disconnects easy also
will update more pics for the installComment
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Got the new stator and installed mounted the R/Rthe bike is now charging 13+volts at idle and 14.4ish at 4500 rpms so the problem seems to be fixed. The bike runs better too probably to better spark output,
And now all back together and ready to ride!!!
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