Alternative to the SH775 RR

[Joe Garfield]

The one I got was dirty. I cleaned it off and it looked practically new, and works just fine.

[1948man]

Ebay: Search "polaris RZR regulator". You will find tons of used SH775's for about $40 shipped. At that price point there is no good reason to use anything else.

Is model 4012941 the only one that is suitable for my gs 1100 shafties?

[JTGS850GL]

It's the only Polaris part number for the SH775 R/R.

[1948man]

Thanks, snagged one of ebay.

[1948man]

http://triumphparts.calmoto.com/productSearch.aspx?searchTerm=T2500676

So, this is what I need to link it up?

[salty_monk]

Yep T2500676

or get the connectors only ( more expensive I think) here http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...87/fkw187.html

Think that's the right one...

[1948man]

Thanks. Gonna order it.

[1948man]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electrosport-Industries-Stator-ESG020-/201895201552?hash=item2f01e44b10:g:SOsAAOSwVm5Y9Qj~&vxp=mtr

Is this a genuine example of the Electrosport stator discussed here at GSR and is it decent? I realize some here prefer Rick's Motorsports stators.

[Carter Turk]

who should?

Hmm, someone with more electrical experience maybe, if they're willing to share their knowledge.

[bobgroger]

A search should reveal all. I have used SH775s on all my GS bikes, it just works, There is the SH847 available, but it is overkill for the stator output....

[1948man]

I received the T2500676 Triumph wiring harness. It has 2 groups of wires, each having a plug on each end. One group has 3 wires which, I guess obviously mate up with stator wires. I will cut the plug off the stator end and solder the wires to the wires coming from the stator. The other group has 2 wires, a black and a brown. Is the black ground and the brown power? Each of these wires divides into 2 smaller wires of the same colors at the end plug. I guess I just cut the plug off and leave myself 1 black wire and one brown wire which will be hooked up as per recommendations here. I.E. , brown wire thru a 30 amp fuse to positive battery post and black wire per "Single Point Ground" instructions. Does this sound right?

[fastbysuzuki]

This is the way that I installed it.
Cut off the two small plugs then carefully split the harness so you have one plug with two brown and two black wires twist the Browns together likewise with the blacks so you now have a plug with one brown and one black so to speak.
The brown connects to the red wire in the bikes harness where the original rectifier/regulator red connected to, know as the T connection on various posts on here.
The black connects to the single point ground see many posts on here or just use the search facility for information.
The three blacks on the other plug connect to the three wires that come from the stator it does not matter which wire connects to which ( there is no polarity)
All joints where twisted together soldered and shrink wrapped.
The two left over wires in the bikes harness can be taped up and tucked away as they were for the handle bar loop and are not in use now.

[1948man]

Thanks for the help. The R/R I am replacing is not OEM and it has a red wire that doesn't use the harness but just goes (unfused, I might add) straight to the battery positive. I'll have to poke around and see if I can find the original point the OEM R/R would have been connected to. Since I have a brown wire that divides into 2, I guess I could connect one to the battery positive (fused) and one to the point from the harness the original OEM power wire hooked up to. I'm working today so won't be able to ponder it for a while. Thanks again for your help.

[Steve]

Thanks for the help. The R/R I am replacing is not OEM and it has a red wire that doesn't use the harness but just goes (unfused, I might add) straight to the battery positive. I'll have to poke around and see if I can find the original point the OEM R/R would have been connected to. Since I have a brown wire that divides into 2, I guess I could connect one to the battery positive (fused) and one to the point from the harness the original OEM power wire hooked up to. I'm working today so won't be able to ponder it for a while. Thanks again for your help.

NO, do not do that. Find the original wire. If this is for the 1100G in your signature, the wire will be on the left side, partially hidden by the frame rail, between the airbox and the battery. There is a large sleeve that covers a couple electrical connectors, it will be in there.

First of all, there should ALWAYS be a fuse between the battery and any electrical device. The R/R is an electrical device. If it should happen to short out, there is a direct path for some serious current from the battery. When that heavy current goes through the wire, it will get VERY hot, to the point of melting insulation and possibly even setting the bike on fire. Suzuki had a decent idea for current routing to reduce the load on the MAIN fuse by placing the R/R connection where they did. Bypassing that by connecting straight to the battery puts extra loads on the fuse box. One way around that is to replace the fuse box and/or rewire the bike between the battery, ignition key and fuse box, but that is a task that few of us are willing to do.

.

[fastbysuzuki]

If you find where the Oem rectifier connected into the bikes harness (the red wire) you use both the brown wires from the triumph harness twisted together and soldered into that connection then you do not require any extra fuses as you will then be using the stock configuration which is to be recommended.