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    #31
    Originally posted by Sandy View Post
    . Maybe somebody with an 1100 can measure from the inside of the chain adjuster to the brake rotor or wheel
    Will this help or just confuse. If all ure spacers are the same u have a failed bearing somewhere. and since you didnt take my advice about checking those sprocket bolts seating correctly you HAVE NOT check the whole wheel.

    Last edited by Guest; 03-22-2017, 12:18 AM.

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      #32
      If it fit prior to disassembly it fits now
      dont be making up red herrings to follow.
      1983 GS 550 LD
      2009 BMW K1300s

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        #33
        Originally posted by Cipher View Post
        If it fit prior to disassembly it fits now
        dont be making up red herrings to follow.
        thats the whole point, somehow he has mucked up/broken or bent something

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          #34
          I asked before, but you didn't specify- how would the sprocket bolts cause an issue, if the hub was never disassembled? I'm trying to understand why.

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            #35
            Originally posted by sharpy View Post
            Will this help or just confuse. If all ure spacers are the same u have a failed bearing somewhere. and since you didnt take my advice about checking those sprocket bolts seating correctly you HAVE NOT check the whole wheel.

            Excellent drawing Sharpy! I downloaded it for future reference 👍
            My Motorcycles:
            22 Kawasaki Z900 RS (Candy Tone Blue)
            22 BMW K1600GT (Probably been to a town near you)
            82 1100e Drag Bike (needs race engine)
            81 1100e Street Bike (with race engine)
            79 1000e (all original)
            82 850g (all original)
            80 KZ 650F (needs restored)

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              #36
              Hey sharpy, the only thing that doesn't look right on your drawing is the left side spacer sits into the hub about half inch (most of the first lip of the spacer, which you can see in the picture above too)

              I checked my right side clearances, and I'm around 37mm from inside the caliper mount to the adjustment bracket (your drawing says 36mm).

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                #37
                Originally posted by storm 64 View Post
                Excellent drawing Sharpy! I downloaded it for future reference ��
                Thanks. Its a 80 GS1000ST rear set up, hence the added specs for a E wheel. FYI. Alloy GSX swingarms are 260 wide. Stay tuned

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by StratJeff View Post
                  Hey sharpy, the only thing that doesn't look right on your drawing is the left side spacer sits into the hub about half inch (most of the first lip of the spacer, which you can see in the picture above too)

                  I checked my right side clearances, and I'm around 37mm from inside the caliper mount to the adjustment bracket (your drawing says 36mm).
                  Left hand spacer disappears into a seal and the bearing is recessed.. Baring the 24mm one (brake bracket) all the rest are bearings and spacers. Ill double check about the 24mm measurement. Ok now im just showing off.......

                  Last edited by Guest; 03-23-2017, 03:38 AM.

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                    #39
                    The rear wheel is located right behind the drivers seat.


                    Sorry read the title and couldn't resist . Good luck on your endeavors

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by 81gs550l View Post
                      The rear wheel is located right behind the drivers seat.


                      Sorry read the title and couldn't resist . Good luck on your endeavors
                      Thought we rode bikes and you drove cars, And i would say the wheel in under the seat mostly.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by sharpy View Post
                        Will this help or just confuse. If all ure spacers are the same u have a failed bearing somewhere. and since you didnt take my advice about checking those sprocket bolts seating correctly you HAVE NOT check the whole wheel.

                        Sharpy, I was hoping you could help me out. In your drawing it shows the center spacer 88mm for the "E" wheel and 82.75 for the spoked hub. I was wondering what spacer would have to be wider to make up the 5.25mm difference? I'm thinking it would have to be made up on the sprocket side to keep the brake caliper centered on the rotor. Any information on this would be helpful. Thanks
                        My Motorcycles:
                        22 Kawasaki Z900 RS (Candy Tone Blue)
                        22 BMW K1600GT (Probably been to a town near you)
                        82 1100e Drag Bike (needs race engine)
                        81 1100e Street Bike (with race engine)
                        79 1000e (all original)
                        82 850g (all original)
                        80 KZ 650F (needs restored)

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                          #42
                          Just as the drawing says. The center spacer is different. (most measurements are from online part diagrams) But on some bikes theres a 5mm spacer behind the brake disc. I have spoke wheels but also have a aftermarket swing arm so mine does not use it. That's a drawing below to show you what i am referring too. So as long as ure spacers are same left to right you mite need or not need that 5mm spacer. I know the alloy arms are 260mm gap. not sure what the steel arms are sorry.



                          https://www.discountbikespares.co.uk...000-GS750.html 80 GS1000S

                          http://www.servicehonda.com/oemparts...0-20062/spacer 80 GS1000e
                          Last edited by Guest; 05-19-2017, 03:50 AM.

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                            #43
                            Thanks for the reply Sharpy. I think I need the 5mm brake rotor spacer. Spacing the rear sprocket to line up with the counter shaft sprocket is not allowing the wheel to sit center of the motorcycle. Everything has to go .200 to the left. When everything said and done, I'll post exactly what spacers are needed and what I've done.
                            My Motorcycles:
                            22 Kawasaki Z900 RS (Candy Tone Blue)
                            22 BMW K1600GT (Probably been to a town near you)
                            82 1100e Drag Bike (needs race engine)
                            81 1100e Street Bike (with race engine)
                            79 1000e (all original)
                            82 850g (all original)
                            80 KZ 650F (needs restored)

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Send me what ure swing arm gap is (if original steel arm), where the wheel sits. and ill do a drawing using spacers/bearings that are original sizes. give everyone else a idea as well. And is ure spoke wheel laced correctly. what size rim are you running and what is the off-set using the disc mating surface and edge of rim. Thanks

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                                #45
                                Holy resurrection Batman! Was this issue ever solved? I just had pretty much the same thing happen to me with two differences - I did not change anything on the sprocket side and tightening the axle nut is what causes the rotor to drag.

                                I took the rear wheel off yesterday to have a tire mounted. When I took the axle out of the wheel I left the sprocket side together - nothing was changed. When I put it back together those paddle thingys slip right into the rubber damper doohicky. Everything seems fine on that side. The order of spacers is correct on the brake side. The top hat sits agin' the bearing, next sits the brake carrier correct orientation - there's really no way to get that backward and fit the caliper on. Next comes the plain spacer, then the adjuster, then the washer, then the nut.

                                With the caliper off I can adjust the chain and tighten the axle nut and everything is fine, no binding of any kind. With the caliper installed over the disc and onto the carrier the disc does not ride in the center of the brake window, it's right up against the outside edge of it. With the pistons fully retracted the pads can be slid in but the outer pad is tight and drags. Tightening the axle nut properly causes quite a bit of drag.

                                I've had my rear wheel off numerous times and never experienced this issue. I can't for the life of me understand what could have changed between yesterday and today to cause it. Am I making a rookie mistake 15 years in or did they throw magic grits into my wheel at the shop when I had the tire mounted?

                                Your Truly,

                                Jinxed in Jersey.
                                "Men will never be free until Mark learns to do The Twist."

                                -Denis D'shaker

                                79 GS750N

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