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Voltage Drop with turn signals

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    Voltage Drop with turn signals

    Hello guys i have been doing the Stator testing and found no issues. but during the tests i found that if i turned the signal light on it would continually drop the the voltage coming out of the battery.

    during the quick test first time it had i voltage drop at 5000rpm. but it was still around 14. i found it had a 8 amp fuse where a 15 was required so i replaced that and found it now increased at 5000 rpm.

    the third time i ran the testing i happen to hit the turn signal at the same time and found that i dropped the voltage every time it flashed. if it was at idle (1500) with the ligths on and flasher it would drop the voltage from 13+ and it seems to drop continuous sly until it gets below 12 and then it wants to stall due to lack of power. but if i leave it at 2500 rpm it is able to keep going as it charges the battery enough in between flashes.

    I cannot tell if it the stator or RR. or just the signal relay (replaced by generic two years ago). I am working my through all the contacts but found no issues yet.

    Thanks for any info.

    #2
    Can you do this quick test in this link and post all 6 results?

    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

    Comment


      #3
      Blinkers are a big load; obviously it will pull down the battery some. The Quick test is designed based on the standard loads without adding the blinkers.

      Comment


        #4
        1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts

        13.00

        2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts
        12.5

        3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts
        13.3/5

        4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts
        13.9/14.2

        5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts

        1st test = 13.5, 2nd = 14.4 (after replacing fuses)

        6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)
        13.3/4

        I then ran the same test but with the signal light on and it would continue to drop each time the lights flashed. then charged back up if the rpm was higher then 2500.

        put a new battery in last spring.

        last year i would drive the bike to work and after cruising at 120kmh for 30 min i would hit a stop light and would have the lights and signals on to turn and the bike would stall. (loss of power) i got used to turning my light off when i got to the light and keep the rpm up to stop the stall. then once running on side streets for a minute it would be fine with the light off.

        I am considering going to LED but want to make sure the charging system is good first.

        I will run the test again tonight to confirm the results again. just need to fix a oil leak. new oil filter seal did not seal fully and now leaks like a tap.
        Thanks
        Last edited by Guest; 04-11-2017, 01:55 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          It looks like you previously had a degraded fuse between the battery and the R/R and that was limiting the charging voltage to 13.4V at 5K RPM. This lack of charging probably contributed to you having eventually damaged the old battery.

          Now you have a fresh battery and better fuse, your charging look much better. The signal lights are a very heavy load especially when the brakes are on. The charging system can not overcome the load from all of those lights and maintain 14.5V at the battery.

          Do not change to LED unless you have a Series R/R (like the SH-775).

          But you are correct the LEDs will draw much less current and will will reduce the strain on your harness.

          I would do the Phase A test and measure your voltage drops.

          Comment


            #6
            Ran the test again last night. had the battery on a battery tender until just before i did the test.

            #1 13.2
            #2 12.5
            #3 13.2
            #4 14.2
            #5 14.1 (took the rpm up to 5000 three times with the same results
            #6 13.2

            Started the fault finding chart

            step#2 was .17
            and step 3 is direct wired to negative battery terminal already. i stopped there.

            Comment


              #7
              What is the size and length of the ground wire? How many connections between battery and r/r?

              Comment


                #8
                The length of the black wire from the R/R to the - battery terminal is only 7-8 inches and is what i would call a medium gauged wire. there are 5 wires coming out of the RR black one to the battery and 4 into the harness. (red, yellow, White/blue and the other i cannot remember off the top of my head.) they all have bullet connections.

                Comment


                  #9
                  It is generally recommended you get rid of bullet connectors. Your red and black wire are carrying 15 amps in each direction. You are "ok" right now but is 6 months you might be down another 0.25v and the year after you are charging at 13.5v snd the battery is flat again.

                  You have never mentioned shat r/r you are using do I will assume it is shunt. The less voltage your battery sees the more likely you are smoking your stator.

                  this is is thd main reason for sll of the recommendations in gs charging health.
                  Last edited by posplayr; 04-12-2017, 11:34 AM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    90 % of this bike is stock. so i am assuming that the RR is the stock Shunt type that came with the bike back in the day. should i just upgrade the RR to the series 775 and this should solve the issues a $100 investment is worth more then all this time i am putting in trying to locate a tiny minor issue?

                    I have never checked the temp of the RR when running i will give it a touch when i get home to see how hot it gets.

                    Thanks

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Big Red View Post
                      90 % of this bike is stock. so i am assuming that the RR is the stock Shunt type that came with the bike back in the day. should i just upgrade the RR to the series 775 and this should solve the issues a $100 investment is worth more then all this time i am putting in trying to locate a tiny minor issue?

                      I have never checked the temp of the RR when running i will give it a touch when i get home to see how hot it gets.

                      Thanks
                      Many of these bikes have chronic charging problems. The biggest issue is the shunt R/R that over stresses the stator. The ability of the stator to survive is based on how much heat can be removed from the stator to keep it cool. That has to do with the size of the engine, whether you keep the RPM's at a high level or if you keep enough oil it it.

                      Right now we have no idea as to whether you stator has sustained any damage or how much that might be. If you do the Phase B stator tests especially the Leg to Ground that will allow me to make a judgment about a recommendation.

                      If for example there is no damage to the stator now, I would correct the factory wiring frailties and wire the R/R according to Charging System Health and watch and wait.

                      If you do have damage, you are probably living on borrowed time and it would be best to plan of the SH-775.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Ok i guess i know what i am doing tonight while watching the Ottawa Senators take down those nasty Boston Bruins......

                        Thanks for the help.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Looking back to the beginning of the thread, it seems that you are surprised there is a voltage drop when the signals are on?

                          Look at it this way: the two bulbs that light up when you activate the turn signals draw the same amount of current as a headlight.

                          .
                          sigpic
                          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                          Family Portrait
                          Siblings and Spouses
                          Mom's first ride
                          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Steve View Post
                            Looking back to the beginning of the thread, it seems that you are surprised there is a voltage drop when the signals are on?

                            Look at it this way: the two bulbs that light up when you activate the turn signals draw the same amount of current as a headlight.

                            .
                            Blinkers and brakes on are 3*23=69 watts compared to a 55W headlamp.

                            GS_Watts.jpg

                            Comment


                              #15
                              If you are using stock bulbs. I usually use 1157 bulbs, which are 27 watts, so two of them equal one headlight.

                              Toss in the brake light, ... yeah, the stator earns its keep.

                              .
                              sigpic
                              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                              Family Portrait
                              Siblings and Spouses
                              Mom's first ride
                              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                              Comment

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