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    #16
    So you are saying that when you are sitting at a light at idle on a hill turning left at night using all the lights your bike would have the same issue as the lights are drawing more power then the bike will produce and will stall. then also have a hard time starting again because the battery level has dropped so low?

    even just sitting in the garage with the headlight on i hit the blinkers and when they flash the headlight dims as well as the dash lights (neutral light)

    I did the phase 3 testing for the Ohms of the Stator and got 0.03. so i am guessing that means i need to replace the Stator?

    also ran the quick test again and got the same results. lower voltage at 5000 then i got at 2500 RPM.

    Thoughts?

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      #17
      Nobody said the bike should stall , but someone did specify the phase b leg to groung test. You need at least about. 11v to run snd battery should not drop below about 12.0 at idle with blinker on.

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        #18
        Sounds more like the battery is shot than the stator.

        With the engine idling (make sure you are at proper idle speed, about 1100RPM), the stator is not putting out anything near full capacity, but the battery should be able to handle the electrical load without the little bit that the stator is contributing.

        With a good battery, you should be able to disconnect the three stator wires from the R/R inputs and go for a short ride. Using turn signals and brakes will shorten the time a bit, but you should easily get 20-30 minutes. From your description, you are not even getting 20-30 seconds, even with the stator connected, so I say it's time for a new battery.

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          #19
          Sorry yes i started the Phase B not 3 testing and the first test for the Ohms was below the 0.05 stated so i stopped since it was 0.03 for all three pairs. Should i continue with the rest of the steps? or start planning on getting a new stator.

          If i am idling in the garage and test the volts the signal light with lights on will drop the battery below 12. and try to stall.

          during my rides last year i would just turn my lights off if i needed to use my signal lights while idling which allowed me to keep it from stalling.

          in Canada we have a supplier for Stators ElectroSport Stator


          Item # : 173240

          for $170 CAD + tax with free shipping

          i believe i can handle the install but would need to also order a gasket to go with it.

          Thanks guys

          This Site is amazing for weekend warriors like me

          Comment


            #20
            Just trying to get to the bottom of whether the stator has sustained any dzmsge in the past. The ohm meter tests are worthless.

            Steve: he had repeat lay done the Quick Test and shows 14.2v at 2.5k and 14.1v at 5k. So he is charging ok but undercharging none the less.

            He he has ignored about 1/3 Of the recommendations, but regardless I have been trying to save him from changing both r/r and stator. If the stator is showing no faults (leg to ground) I would just fix connections and call it good, although low idle is possibly causing low voltage stalling .

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              #21
              I think i missed reading a posts fully. I will run the full Phase B test tonight. leg to ground...

              What other recommendations have i missed?

              this is my first time dealing with these parts of the bike. all the other issues i have dealt with in the past were carb or engine related. Electrical doesn't scare me but it is confusing as hell.

              Thanks again for your help guys.

              I have no problem replacing what is needed i just want piece of mind and not have to worry about stalling out anymore.

              It will be going out for it's first ride of the spring tomorrow. so it will be the best test yet.

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                #22
                Phase B testing

                1- .03 Ohms on all three
                2 - 99 ohms on all three (might be the meter also since that is the same reading i get when i touch the red and back leads together also for the meter.
                3 - Below 60 volts (can't remember the exact numbers)
                4 - all above 0


                basically it has failed all of the tests in the phase B i am also going to borrow a different multi meter to confirm the tests. before moving forward.

                went out for my first ride on the weekend and it seemed strong and running great. But no highway or stop lights just some stop signs.

                Thank again for all the help.
                Caleb

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Big Red View Post
                  Phase B testing

                  1- .03 Ohms on all three
                  2 - 99 ohms on all three (might be the meter also since that is the same reading i get when i touch the red and back leads together also for the meter.
                  3 - Below 60 volts (can't remember the exact numbers)
                  4 - all above 0


                  basically it has failed all of the tests in the phase B i am also going to borrow a different multi meter to confirm the tests. before moving forward.

                  went out for my first ride on the weekend and it seemed strong and running great. But no highway or stop lights just some stop signs.

                  Thank again for all the help.
                  Caleb
                  Realize the voltage in leg to leg is proportional to rpm. 80vac/5krpm but you want to stress the stator fully for l-l and. L-g.
                  i assume you realize what you seem to be measuring is a damaged stator. The combination of factored has lead to this. It will not get better znd stator replacement will only be temporary unless you go to a. Series r/r.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    I agree it seems that it is a damaged Stator.

                    So is my best bet to order a new Stator and R/R and replace both at the same time and run the bike for another 30 years?

                    or just set the idle high and don't use the lights when i have to turn.... :-)

                    what am i better off doing since i have a salvage yard not far that has a TON of older bikes should i try and get the Honda version? what years and what size would they have come on for the RR.

                    as for the Stator i can order one Electrosport Stator for $170 Canadian plus taxes and free shipping..

                    Thoughts?
                    Last edited by Guest; 04-19-2017, 02:24 PM.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Big Red View Post
                      I agree it seems that it is a damaged Stator.

                      So is my best bet to order a new Stator and R/R and replace both at the same time and run the bike for another 30 years?

                      or just set the idle high and don't use the lights when i have to turn.... :-)
                      The best case scenario is that you get a hard failure of your stator and you know you have to change it. The more time consuming alternative is you chase your tail becuase your bike seems to be charging as per the Quick Test) but after getting back from a ride, you find your battery is low.

                      If you were to ride with a voltmeter on the handlebar, you would probably be seeing this directly. Failure to charge is dependent on the stator maintaining its insulating characteristics between the winding. Damaged insulation can have temperature dependent degradations that compromise charging well before any catastrophic failure finally makes it clear what is going on.

                      So yes plan on changing both and you should not have to worry about it for along time. One of the problems is that other stator design defects due to improper insulation and sensitivity to vibration can now start to be the next things to fail after eliminating the SHUNT R/R stresses.

                      The Electrosport stator seem to have very good epoxy coatings to fix and secure winding. Pay special attention to how the wires coming from the stator are secured because solid core wires will eventually fail if allowed to flex.

                      The SH775 is a monster(but if you can get it to fit and you're happy with that then go for it), and a lot of people get away with the Honda Units; they are definitely smaller(not perfect but very good). If cost was no object than get the Compufire as it is much smaller.

                      All this is mentioned in GS Stator.
                      Last edited by posplayr; 04-19-2017, 03:31 PM.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        "what am i better off doing since i have a salvage yard not far that has a TON of older bikes should i try and get the Honda version? what years and what size would they have come on for the RR."

                        Live dangerously and recycle! Lots of salvage bikes likely have good stators- I'm using one! Spend your money on a SH-775 and skip the overpriced ES stator
                        1981 gs650L

                        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                        Comment


                          #27
                          i have a salvage yard not far that has a TON of older bikes should i try and get the Honda version
                          R/Rs from 80's goldwings and Silverwings are ones I am still using... But as you say, you take a chance, so be careful. Do Not Pay Very Much....I have seen high prices on these.... AND It's unlikely they'll take it back , not trusting you to wire it in properly. wire colours are slightly different than stock suzukis. There's instruction on BassCliff's site.

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