850 cam shim buckets

[Guest]

I've seen several discussions on the shim buckets with these causing noise. I have '82 GS 850. How do you determine if the buckets are good ?
As long as they rotate and the shim fits snug and level ? Is there any other things to look for ?

Thanks

[fastbysuzuki]

Signs of damage, play in the housings (unlikely unless been abused) or incorrect valve clearance is there plenty of oil getting up to the top end?

[BillH]

I did the valve adjustments last summer, probably put 250 miles on it since. It's a rolling rebuild. I definitely have the dreaded cam walk noise but I think I have more than that. The noise is there more than not. Of course it's always there when someone is around - right. It does go away after 2k rpm though. I'm waiting on parts to rebuild the cam chain tensioner, I cleaned it up before but didn't take it apart. I was just curious if I was missing something on the buckets.


I'm assuming there is plenty of oil on the top end, like I said the noise does go away above idle rpms.

[fastbysuzuki]

I'm assuming there is plenty of oil on the top end, like I said the noise does go away above idle rpms.

in that case I don't think you have anything to worry about

[Steve]

There is no wear on the buckets, I don't know how they could go "bad" unless you dropped one and put it out of round.

If your noise goes away by about 2000 RPM, it's most likely cam walk. Nothing to worry about there, it does not get any better, but it doesn't get any worse, either.

The BIG thing will be after you rebuild your tensioner. Be sure to install it correctly. Many will read the book and THINK they did it right, but don't read ALL of the instructions.

After it is rebuilt:
1. Loosen the lock nut on left side, loosen set screw about 1/4 turn.
2. Push plunger IN while rotating large knob.
3. Turn set screw to lock plunger.
4. Install tensioner to cylinder block.
5. Loosen set screw, you should hear the plunger extend.
6. Turn set screw in until it stops, then turn it back OUT 1/4 to 1/2 turn and use lock nut to lock in this position.

Too many times, guys will see the first part of #6, but will skip over the bolded part. That does not allow the tensioner to move and do its job.

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[BillH]

So, parts came in for cam chain tensioner and during the rebuild process I found the push rod had a pretty good size pit in it. I'm thinking the bearing was getting caught and stuck not allowing the tensioner to work correctly resulting in cam chain noise. So I tried to sand it with sandpaper but it's so deep that I wasn't making any progress with it. IMG_3633.jpg I checked Bikebandit and Babbits - unavailable. I did see Alpha Sports had it available. $35.95 plus shipping.

[Steve]

So I tried to sand it with sandpaper but it's so deep that I wasn't making any progress with it.
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You are using sandpaper on metal? You are a bit more optimistic than I am.

I had a similar tensioner. Used a few strokes with a fine file, it worked just fine.





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[Joe Garfield]

You can get replacement cam chain tensioners (used, in good shape) on eBay for $15.

[Steve]

A few strokes with a file is free.

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[BillH]

Thanks Joe.

[BillH]

Thanks Steve, yeah I'll try that with a file. I guess I had tunnel vision reading the procedure, it said he used sandpaper. But don't get me wrong, I really appreciated the time he took to write the procedure. I'm following it to a TEE.