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Picking up 1980 GS750 tomorrow. Have basic fluids questions.

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    #16
    Headlamp on during starting is no issue on a properly functioning bike. The bike will light off with just a quick jab of the starter. The bikes charging system is designed to support the headlamp on all the time as well. Turning it off will result in the system producing too much extra power which in part will then be shunted back to the stator where it can cause heat damage. That's why standard forum wisdom includes, to go along with Rotella oil, a Shindengen SH775 series type R/R. It helps protect your stator from overcharge damage. You can get these units for less than $40 shipped off ebay. One of the best investments you can make on your bike. Save that fancy oil for a bike that needs it and get a proper R/R.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by 82tiburon View Post
      I'm actually thinking of going with Valvoline VR1.
      Have had great results with it, though in a much heavier grade (60 weight) in my Harley going on about 7 years now.
      Lol, way too heavy for the 750, I run a 20w-50 synthetic in mine during the summer here. Yeah heat and lots of it. Doesn't do too bad in the winter either, what little winter we get here. Guess it is the reason mine has 67,000 miles on it now and never been into the engine.
      sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
      1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
      2015 CAN AM RTS


      Stuff I've done to my bike 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by mrbill5491 View Post
        Lol, way too heavy for the 750, I run a 20w-50 synthetic in mine during the summer here. Yeah heat and lots of it. Doesn't do too bad in the winter either, what little winter we get here. Guess it is the reason mine has 67,000 miles on it now and never been into the engine.
        Ah, at least you get the dry heat.
        With 80%-plus humidity down here, getting caught in a traffic jam can cook your motor in no time at all --- which is why I split lanes.

        My only concern with the 20W-50 are the oil passages.
        Some engines have them very narrow & require a lot of pressure to push that dino juice through them --- which is not a good thing.
        Learned that from over 30 years working on bikes & boats.
        I may look into Valvoline's conventional 4-stroke motorcycle oil in 10W-40.I just can't abide the idea of running tractor oil in anything other than...well, a tractor.
        Last edited by Guest; 05-22-2017, 02:48 PM.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
          Headlamp on during starting is no issue on a properly functioning bike. The bike will light off with just a quick jab of the starter. The bikes charging system is designed to support the headlamp on all the time as well. Turning it off will result in the system producing too much extra power which in part will then be shunted back to the stator where it can cause heat damage. That's why standard forum wisdom includes, to go along with Rotella oil, a Shindengen SH775 series type R/R. It helps protect your stator from overcharge damage. You can get these units for less than $40 shipped off ebay. One of the best investments you can make on your bike. Save that fancy oil for a bike that needs it and get a proper R/R.
          Nope, can't find a single Shindengen SH775 on eBay.
          Is there a direct manufacture's website for them?

          Comment


            #20
            Well, even with the stress of escorting my wife to the hospital for her chemo therapy, I've been able to get some important things done on the bike this week.

            I was able to resuscitate the lead/acid battery enough so as to ascertain that my charging system is functioning properly --- it metered out from a sitting 12.33 volts up to 12.70 just below 3500 RPM with a slow roll of the throttle.

            I made a cork cap button for the Lights On/Off switch to give it my own individual touch.
            While I have NO INTENTION WHATSOEVER of running the bike with the lights off, that is the way I will be starting it.
            The nanosecond it will take to do this isn't sufficient to harm the stator or regulator/rectifier.

            I purchased a replacement Deka ETX15L gel battery, washable/reusable K&N SU-1250 canister air filter & a K&N #133 oil filter.
            K&N is all that I've ever used in all of my vehicles, including a 1982 COrvette that I used in autocross racing.
            They make quality products.

            I'm going to go with Valvoline conventional 10W-40 motorcycle oil.It goes for $4.00 & change
            at Walmart and looks to be good stuff.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by 82tiburon View Post
              Well, even with the stress of escorting my wife to the hospital for her chemo therapy, I've been able to get some important things done on the bike this week.

              I was able to resuscitate the lead/acid battery enough so as to ascertain that my charging system is functioning properly --- it metered out from a sitting 12.33 volts up to 12.70 just below 3500 RPM with a slow roll of the throttle.

              I made a cork cap button for the Lights On/Off switch to give it my own individual touch.
              While I have NO INTENTION WHATSOEVER of running the bike with the lights off, that is the way I will be starting it.
              The nanosecond it will take to do this isn't sufficient to harm the stator or regulator/rectifier.

              I purchased a replacement Deka ETX15L gel battery, washable/reusable K&N SU-1250 canister air filter & a K&N #133 oil filter.
              K&N is all that I've ever used in all of my vehicles, including a 1982 COrvette that I used in autocross racing.
              They make quality products.

              I'm going to go with Valvoline conventional 10W-40 motorcycle oil.It goes for $4.00 & change
              at Walmart and looks to be good stuff.
              On ebay. Search Polaris RZR or Ranger regulator. Tons for sale. Just be sure to message the seller and confirm the unit you are considering has "SH775" imprinted on the top edge. These Shindengen units are robust so purchasing used is no worry. There are various harness options including a nice Triumph pigtail available. A simple search will bring up the part number.

              Discussions about oil continue to amaze. 15W-40 oil is the exact same viscosity as 10W-40 when the engine is up to temperature. The difference being when the engine is near 0 degrees, and in that instance the 15W oil is a smig thicker than 10W oil. Living in Florida negates that issue completely though. Regardless, nothing wrong with Valvoline motorcycle oil.

              BTW, if you are concern about oil in your bike you better perform the oil relief valve spring shimming mod. The 2nd gen. 750 engine is know to have a bad oiling system and the factory fix was to add a .060" shim to increase oil pressure. There is info about this mod in the archives so you may want to search to learn more.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by 82tiburon View Post
                Nope, can't find a single Shindengen SH775 on eBay.
                I can't either.







                Take a look at the ones above, then open this link, sort by price, scroll down to the ones for $38.99. Look for the ones for Ranger and RZR that look like the ones above, any of them will work. Yes, they are SH775 regulators, they also have Polaris part number 4012941.


                Yeah, if you do a search for "Shindengen SH775" you probably won't find any, you just have to know some alternate search terms.

                .
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                Family Portrait
                Siblings and Spouses
                Mom's first ride
                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by alke46 View Post
                  Huh?? I thought the consensus on this site was in favor of the Rotella 15w40 diesel oil. There are a lot of us using it with no regrets.
                  consensus has nothing to do with it, it's not a presidential election

                  the reasoning behind rotella, (not that there is anytyhing wrong with it, other than more clutch drag when cold) is cost....it's cheap.
                  its the 15w40, it's the wrong vi
                  10w40 is the viscosity recommended, and in my limited experience it works better in the clutch / transmission. but it cost more.....too bad, don't get cheap on me now

                  these motors will survive no matter what you dump in the crankcase...pretty much...any non-synthetic xxW40 will do as far as keeping the engine alive for a lifetime.
                  the mileage we put on them hardly requires even changing it at all, the motor still survives, so whether you have "no regrets" is practically meaningless.
                  Last edited by derwood; 05-24-2017, 02:42 PM.
                  GSX1300R NT650 XV535

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by derwood View Post
                    consensus has nothing to do with it, it's not a presidential election

                    the reasoning behind rotella, (not that there is anytyhing wrong with it, other than more clutch drag when cold) is cost....it's cheap.
                    its the 15w40, it's the wrong vi
                    10w40 is the viscosity recommended, and in my limited experience it works better in the clutch / transmission. but it cost more.....too bad, don't get cheap on me now

                    these motors will survive no matter what you dump in the crankcase...pretty much...any non-synthetic xxW40 will do as far as keeping the engine alive for a lifetime.
                    the mileage we put on them hardly requires even changing it at all, the motor still survives, so whether you have "no regrets" is practically meaningless.
                    I couldn't agree more --- tractor oil belongs in a tractor, not in my motorcycle's crankcase.

                    A friend of mine who works on boats, motorcycles & cars was gobsmacked when I mentioned the use of Rotella.
                    He's of the same mind as yourself in that the only reason to use it is to save $$$...which you'll be laying out lots of in the long run.

                    Motor oil is basically motor oil --- for example, Harley doesn't pump theirs out of derricks on Harley oil fields, does it? --- but you should at least be using something engineered for your TYPE of engine.
                    Last time I looked, I don't own a Massey-Ferguson or John Deere.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Steve View Post
                      I can't either.







                      Take a look at the ones above, then open this link, sort by price, scroll down to the ones for $38.99. Look for the ones for Ranger and RZR that look like the ones above, any of them will work. Yes, they are SH775 regulators, they also have Polaris part number 4012941.
                      Welcome to PowerSportsNation. PSN is the world's largest ATV/UTV salvage operation. We currently have over 50,000 unique part numbers for used inventory that is cataloged and ready to ship. We are currently processing(tearing down) over 30 machines a week. If you can't find what you are looking for, please email us or call us at 402-371-7002 and we will check our upcoming inventory. PowerSportsNation is the Nation's leader in remanufactured ATV/UTV engines and transmissions. We are sending out between 30 and 40 rebuilds weekly, all engines and transmissions are built to order. PowerSportsNation is now offering listings for service work. These listings include rebuilt heads, top end cylinder kits and crankshafts for the DIY customers and repair shops. If we do not have the product listed, you may be able to send in your parts for repair. Thank you for shopping with PowerSportsNation and we look forward to doing business with you.


                      Yeah, if you do a search for "Shindengen SH775" you probably won't find any, you just have to know some alternate search terms.

                      .
                      I ordered one from ebay 2 weeks ago. It came from Canada and the seller listed it as coming off of a Cam-Am Renegade. Maybe another search possibility?
                      Alan

                      sigpic
                      Weaned on a '74 450 Honda
                      Graduated to an '82 GS850GL
                      Now riding an '83 GS1100GL
                      Added an '82 GS1100GL

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by 82tiburon View Post
                        I couldn't agree more --- tractor oil belongs in a tractor, not in my motorcycle's crankcase.

                        A friend of mine who works on boats, motorcycles & cars was gobsmacked when I mentioned the use of Rotella.
                        He's of the same mind as yourself in that the only reason to use it is to save $$$...which you'll be laying out lots of in the long run.

                        Motor oil is basically motor oil --- for example, Harley doesn't pump theirs out of derricks on Harley oil fields, does it? --- but you should at least be using something engineered for your TYPE of engine.
                        Last time I looked, I don't own a Massey-Ferguson or John Deere.
                        If you and derwood ever decide to clue-in about motor oil the Bob Is The Oil Guy forum is a good place to do it. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...s.php?ubb=cfrm

                        Sign up and do some reading, and you will learn that there is no better place on the net to learn about oil. You will also learn that there are tons of guys there that use Rotella oil in their older cars and motorcycles. Why you ask? Because it's good stuff. Low price is a bonus, not the reason. For example, modern motorcycle oils have less ZDDP than Rotella (and diesel engine oils in general) because most new bikes have a catalyst these days. I'll take the diesel oil thank you very much.
                        Ed

                        To measure is to know.

                        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                          If you and derwood ever decide to clue-in about motor oil the Bob Is The Oil Guy forum is a good place to do it. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...s.php?ubb=cfrm

                          Sign up and do some reading, and you will learn that there is no better place on the net to learn about oil. You will also learn that there are tons of guys there that use Rotella oil in their older cars and motorcycles. Why you ask? Because it's good stuff. Low price is a bonus, not the reason. For example, modern motorcycle oils have less ZDDP than Rotella (and diesel engine oils in general) because most new bikes have a catalyst these days. I'll take the diesel oil thank you very much.
                          Valvoline VR1 racing oil & it's conventional counterpart BOTH have zinc additives, which is why I started using it in my 43 year-old ironhead Sportster & 40 year-old Low Rider.

                          Just because I disagree with someone's opinion doesn't make me wrong & I'm certainly not a noob when it comes to engines, how they work & how to keep them that way.

                          So let's just agree to disagree.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by 82tiburon View Post
                            Valvoline VR1 racing oil & it's conventional counterpart BOTH have zinc additives, which is why I started using it in my 43 year-old ironhead Sportster & 40 year-old Low Rider.

                            Just because I disagree with someone's opinion doesn't make me wrong & I'm certainly not a noob when it comes to engines, how they work & how to keep them that way.

                            So let's just agree to disagree.
                            You realize of course that all motor oils have "zinc additives." It's just a matter of how much. Check some oil analysis test reports and you will learn that Rotella has about 1100-1200 ppm of both zinc and phosphorus. How much does that Valvoline motorcycle oil have?
                            Ed

                            To measure is to know.

                            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                            Comment


                              #29
                              It has enough to keep my pushrod engines happy.

                              BTW, I don't read oil analysis test reports --- my reading material in the crapper consists solely of service manuals, from which I can actually learn something useful that may help me if I ever find myself on the side of the road.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Mystik JT8 Diesel Oil

                                Great stuff.

                                Oil analysis report shows 1150 ppm phosphorus and 1450 zinc. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...pics/4328939/1

                                BTW, I was serious about shimming the oil pressure relief spring...
                                Ed

                                To measure is to know.

                                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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