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    Galvanic corrosion concern

    About to attempt a repair on a split engine case boss for the alternator cover on a 2004 CBR1000RR. Planning to use a time-sert insert as I've had good results with them repairing similar issues. However, this one is likely to be in the presence of oil most of the time so I'm wondering what material the insert would be best made of. Not sure if oil is considered to be a "corrosive environment" but as I know very little about galvanic corrosion and avoiding it I figured I'd ask if anyone here has advice.

    Seems I can get standard carbon steel or stainless steel inserts. If they're my only options, any thoughts on which would be best?
    It's smoke that make electronic components work.
    Every time I've let the smoke out by mistake, they never work again.
    '80 GS250T... long gone... And back!
    '86 Honda Bol D'Or... very sadly long gone
    '82 GS1000SZ
    '82 GS1100GL
    '01 Honda CBR1100XX BlackBird

    #2
    Going into Aluminium?

    My inexpert 2 cents....

    I would think the best thing to do would be to match it up to the fastening, that's where you don't want the corrosion. The oil presence will help not hinder I would think.

    Any corrosion between the timesert & the Aluminium will only serve to lock it even more firmly in place which should be a good thing.
    1980 GS1000G - Sold
    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

    Comment


      #3
      Excellent point, no idea what material the stock bolt is made of. Maybe anti-seize is all I need to think about?

      Crap design by the way, no gasket! Shop manual says to use sealant goop which is how the lug got split in the first place I suspect. Goop in the hole, torque the bolt, split the lug. Brilliant!

      Thanks for waking me up and stating the obvious Dan.
      It's smoke that make electronic components work.
      Every time I've let the smoke out by mistake, they never work again.
      '80 GS250T... long gone... And back!
      '86 Honda Bol D'Or... very sadly long gone
      '82 GS1000SZ
      '82 GS1100GL
      '01 Honda CBR1100XX BlackBird

      Comment


        #4
        Thought about using a crush washer on it (or both sides of it?) or a doughty seal? I don't really know what you're working with but might help.

        My guess is the stock bolt will be steel with a zinc plate of some description. Probably an 8.8 in that location.
        1980 GS1000G - Sold
        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

        Comment


          #5
          Got a CBR600RR apart here at present so things are pretty similar. No gasket...standard now on a lot of jap engines, just use threebond.
          I wouldn't worry about your timesert material, if the boss is split, I'd assume there's a weld to do first ?
          If there's a dowel in that hole, make very sure you've got the cover centralised on the rotor....

          Comment


            #6
            A good quality epoxy primer in the hole prior to installing the insert is recommended. That's what we do when we install inserts into aluminum where I work (aircraft industry).
            Last edited by Nessism; 06-20-2017, 01:04 PM.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

            Comment


              #7
              This is what we found when we took the cover off, except for a damaged flywheel and the toasted stator we were expecting. The bolt in that lug was not torqued at all, there was enough goop in there to sink a battleship but it was still seeping a little oil.



              Unless there's a reason not to go this way, my plan is to clean all the goop out and fit a 6mm x 1.0 12mm stainless steel time-sert insert (the bolt threads 13mm into the lug) using permatex cold weld 14600 (https://www.permatex.com/products/ad...ding-compound/) as a bonding agent. I'm hoping I can force the cold weld into the cracks to make a permanent repair with the insert.
              Might be overkill Ed but I have all that on hand, it's my Sons machine and 250 miles away so I have to make a trip to fix it. Want to be as prepared as possible to make a good repair.

              What you think, potential problems?
              It's smoke that make electronic components work.
              Every time I've let the smoke out by mistake, they never work again.
              '80 GS250T... long gone... And back!
              '86 Honda Bol D'Or... very sadly long gone
              '82 GS1000SZ
              '82 GS1100GL
              '01 Honda CBR1100XX BlackBird

              Comment


                #8
                That's an odd looking crack. You gotta be careful or the crack could propagate further. A Timesert may be the best option after all since it will reinforce the hole.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hoping the cold weld will help reinforce it as well. Never used it before but read good things about it, apparently it can be drilled and tapped if necessary when cured. That might be another advantage if it gets somewhere unintended.
                  It's smoke that make electronic components work.
                  Every time I've let the smoke out by mistake, they never work again.
                  '80 GS250T... long gone... And back!
                  '86 Honda Bol D'Or... very sadly long gone
                  '82 GS1000SZ
                  '82 GS1100GL
                  '01 Honda CBR1100XX BlackBird

                  Comment


                    #10
                    FYI - the 600 has just been re-nicasiled locally. The company who did it tell me they've seen three CBR1000's with split barrels. The material between cylinders is actually thinner than the 600 - which wasn't generous...Opinion is that it's the head gasket leaks water into the cylinder and the cylinder wall is the weakest point...
                    Worth re-torquing the head while you've got the chance.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Good to know, thanks Greg.
                      It's smoke that make electronic components work.
                      Every time I've let the smoke out by mistake, they never work again.
                      '80 GS250T... long gone... And back!
                      '86 Honda Bol D'Or... very sadly long gone
                      '82 GS1000SZ
                      '82 GS1100GL
                      '01 Honda CBR1100XX BlackBird

                      Comment

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