82 GS850GL electrical mod project this weekend

[Guest]

I have said in a couple other posts what my plans are, I finally have all the material and I am pulling the trigger this weekend. Here is a rundown of the material and what I am doing.

3 Relays
2 Battery 3 circuit power taps (eliminate stacking at the bolts 1 for pos 1 for neg )
Color wiring 10 to 18awg
Various connectors/shrink wrap etc.
aluminum brackets to aid in moving and mounting components
USB assembly
6 fuse block
Ground buss
**Prices on links are not what I paid***
Plan:

1 relay for running lights
1 relay for accesories
(coil relay already installed)
1 relay spare in case one does not work or I find a reason to use it.
SH847AA R/R already installed
run new wire where needed
install ground buss to frame



My 850 has the brown wire for running lights in the headlight and tail ( lucky me ) I am running 12 wire from the relay to the headlight bucket and back to the tail light eliminating the old brown wire run and using the brown wire to actuate the running light relay. I have a 1v drop on the current brown wire, I will be running a new brown wire.

off the same orange wire from ignition( will be new red power wire to switch and new orange from the switch, accessory relay actuation )

Currently ( from bottom to top on the OEM fuse block 1-5 )
1. Main power in
2. Main power to ignition switch/ R/R/ lights - New R/R is directly attached to the battery
3. from ign switch to coil - modified with horn relay mod
4. from ign switch to turn signal lights
5. from ign switch to Hi/Low/ cluster

New Block again from bottom to top 1-6
1. MP from battery to ign switch ( new red 12 wire will be ran to switch and 12 orange back to block )
2. from ign switch to relay for running lights (brown wire for actuation so i can install a hazard flasher at a later time with no other modifications needed)
3. from ign switch to future add EMPTY (horn relay has direct connection to battery with its own fuse and will be off a power tap connection orange wire will actuate jumper)
4. from ign switch to turn signals etc
5. from ign switch to light cluster (may use the relay here)
6. from ign switch to relay for accessories. ( currently USB/lighter combo unit on handlebar )

2-6 will be jumped from orange wire at fuse block using insulated double spades ( i don't like doubling up wire in a connector ) soldering where I can and crimping where I can't.

I have enough extra wire to make the necessary mods if I find any significant voltage drops after I get everything wired up. I am also adding some "special aluminum" I managed to get my hands on to use as the SH847AA mounting plate. The aluminum is supposed to help dissipate the heat 10 times faster than normal aluminum. Don't ask, I only got a little bit myself and they milled it for me. It does not look special in any way, you will see.

I will add pics as I go through it this weekend.

LINKS HAVE BEEN ADDED

There are some options for digital control and fuse blocks but would cost $50-$310 more than what it is costing me to do it my way.

FZ-1 Fuzeblock - $90
M-Unit Blue $360
M-Unit V2 $300
Show Chrome 13-311 $60 - bang for the buck
Denali Power Hub2 $130

[Blue Falcon]

Link to pics


So... as they say, the best laid plans.

Once I got everything apart, half the wiring had already been replaced...the important stuff. The relay the PO put on fell apart when I took everything out. Other than massive time consumption it wasn't that bad. Put the battery tray in some Naval Jelly and sprayed some Rust-O-Leum on it. New fuse box sat in the same foot print as the old. My worst voltage drop that I could find was .07v, I will take it for now. If I ever do a complete rewire.. I will be buying one of the M-Units I posted above.....screw the cost....I'm not sweating my ass off again. The module would have saved me about 6 hours of work and tons of space. It would be the birds nest you see in the pics. It is nice to have the bright on, turn signal and brake and have nothing dim. I had to hold off on the USB install, I ran out of heat shield wire cover. The solenoid also fell apart on me, luckily I had a new one. The ground buss I mounted on the bottom of the bar you see in the pic, not on top as it looks, that was for pic purposes. New power and ground to the front and back, The Black Falcon is happy....of course the valve adjustment/sync/balance probably didn't hurt either.

Summary -

Save the time, buy one of the modules - will save space and time, look much cleaner, I now wish I would have dropped the bills on a power module. I mean...I dropped the bills on the R/R why not the block

Total cost for me was less than $60 for everything (probably more around the $40 range) labor - I will not do this again unless it is a complete rewire with a module and switch to LED lights.