Part number stamped on carbs?

[Guest]

Hey guys. I have learned that several different years and models use the BS32SS carb like my '81 GS850G does, but not all BS32SS carbs are created equal. Does anyone know how to identify which version a carb is by looking at it, maybe like if the Suzuki part number might be stamped on the body somewhere? At the moment, the only difference I am aware of is the number that is stamped on the throttle butterfly valve (I have seen 130, 135 and 140).

As always, any help is greatly appreciated!

Scott

[Frank Z.]

Part no. will be etched on side of slide chamber body, generally on outboard carbs (#1 or #4). Sometimes, if carbs have been excessively cleaned or wire-brushed, part no. will be near impossible to decipher. Hope this helps.
carb49100.jpg

[Guest]

Part no. will be etched on side of slide chamber body, generally on outboard carbs (#1 or #4). Sometimes, if carbs have been excessively cleaned or wire-brushed, part no. will be near impossible to decipher. Hope this helps.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]51655[/ATTACH]

Yes, that does help. Thanks.

So along those same lines, do you know for certain what the stamp on the throttle valve refers to? At the moment, I have one that is stamped "135" (on the #3 carburetor, which is not the original), whereas the others are all stamped "130". I think one guy on here said it refers to the angle at which the edges of the valve are beveled. I suspect that is the reason I can't get my bike to idle below 3000 rpm - despite everything else being perfect.

Thoughts?

[Frank Z.]

Definitely outside my area of expertise, Scott... but i believe your hunch may be correct re bevel degree and how it impacts the "slow" (start-up/idle) system. I'm sure someone here will happen along and enlighten us.

[Guest]

Definitely outside my area of expertise, Scott... but i believe your hunch may be correct re bevel degree and how it impacts the "slow" (start-up/idle) system. I'm sure someone here will happen along and enlighten us.

Assuming I find the culprit, I'm gonna be WAY more of an expert on these carbs than I ever wanted to be! I have a matching "130" valve - along with all its associated hardware - on the way from Ebay. I'm hoping that I can just swap it into the non-original #3 carb and have everything end happily ever after. I'll know by this time next week.

[JTGS850GL]

The stamp on the throttle valve refers to the throttle plate angle. Usually, you can adjust the carb opening to compensate when syncing the carbs. I suspect the bigger issue you may be facing is that your #3 carb body probably has a different main air jet size. The main air jet is not removable but is a pressed fit jet. The only way to tell for sure is to measure the actual drilled opening size in the jet. The jet is located opposite the removable pilot air jet on the filter side of the carburetor body.

[Frank Z.]

Good man. Be sure to check all associated jets in #3 as well, if running stock setup.

http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40179f8700230d8b4e4cd/carburetor

[Guest]

I think I may have found the problem. It's not with the angle of the bevel on the butterfly valve, it's the angle of the plane of the butterfly valve; there's not supposed to be any. The top edge sealed real well against the throttle bore, but the bottom edge couldn't because the valve is bent. See the attached photos.

DSC_3448 PS1.jpg

[eil]

Wowwee! Yeah, that's not right. I get the impression that that carb was sitting in a parts bin somewhere and someone just chucked other parts on top of it. That's just about the only way to get such a messed up throttle plate and body. FYI I probably won't be able to stop by again until some time after the 4th of July weekend.