Bought a set of Cam Motion G-3's for the 1166. Installed them using the reference slots on the cams (per manual) while waiting for my degee wheel to come in so I could check them. Turned out the cams which were supposed to be installed at 110deg lobe centers were at 96deg when set up using the reference slots on the shafts. Guess this goes to show you, degee them bumpsticks !! Got a very noticeable increase in performance as you would expect after correcting the cam timing by 14deg.
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I'll take your advise on the 110 down to 108 for better midrange. I don't spend much time at 6K or over except when playing around. Thanks for the info. Kind of a PIA to go back in there but it's worth it.
MikeComment
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You sure they weren't off a tooth when you installed the chain? More than 10 degrees off doesn't sound right.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-ResurrectionComment
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I found about half way through the degreeing process that the flywheel nut on the timing side had about 5 degs play in it. Had to tighten the doo doo out of the retaining bolt to keep it from shifting when I was rolling forwards and backwards to get TDC. Adding this to the issue makes it more likely 8-9 degrees off on the cams since my initial TDC calc was off. Had to go back and redo the intake cam once I figured this out. Live and learn.
MikeComment
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That's why you ALWAYS install the degree wheel on the LEFT end of the crank! Ray.Comment
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I installed G4 camshafts on my bike. I slotted the stock sprockets myself but when I installed the aftermarket camshafts to these sprockets and timed them correctly I was still out of range with my adjustment. I had to skip a tooth and adjust to get my final numbers which came out to be 107, 108.75. The power still comes on high but it pulls like a train and keeps accelerating harder to redline. I'm going to advance the cams further as I'm worried about valve float revving it a into the red where it makes it's power now as I am using stock springs with shims. I'm going to put them in the 104,106 range.Last edited by Guest; 03-25-2011, 12:04 PM.Comment
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More good info for the uninformed. Next time I'll definitely use the starter side for the deg wheel. Kinda nice having it on the same side as my valve lift measuring rig. DOH!!
MikeComment
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Wohoo, just the topic I was looking for.
keep the info commingComment
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Just so you know, you are riding that thing "with the pin pulled" if you put .355 cams in a head with STOCK valve springs!!! What were you thinking? Did someone NOT in the know tell you that would be ok? So, you just put this thing together, with all new gaskets, & need to take the head off again to change the springs? WOW! You also need to make sure you check piston to valve clearance when you start advancing the intake cam like you say you are going to. Ray.Last edited by rapidray; 03-25-2011, 10:57 PM.Comment
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Hey Jeep, I don't know you nor do I care about your lack of knowledge either! I try to help people by building engines that LIVE, or by offering advice that makes their engines LIVE! If you don't get it, I don't care! Go have a few more beers! Ray.Comment
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I found this really helps if you are trying to go thought the process and avoid remeasuring repeatably. I used the timing side as well, but used the pistion stops to confirm the crank was not twisted by comparing TDC on 1 and 4. We also confirmed the crank timing marks although I'm not sure how we did withat at the moment.
I'm guessing we put the wheel at TDC before removing the wheel and reinstalling the timing advance.
Last edited by posplayr; 03-26-2011, 12:14 AM.Comment
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I would get some HD APE valve springs.Comment
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