manual cam chain tensioner?

[blowerbike]

I know! But MORE billet is always better.. Its just too bad my 750 is the older type and cant have a manual tensioner...unless of course he makes a three bolt too Ray??

i'll show you how to modify your stocker then you can tell mriddle how.
i'm better at showing than telling/explaining.
i wonder if rays buddy will ship those for the same 35.00?
that would make me go hmmmmmmm in a good way

[Guest]

Tap a thread into where the piston comes out and install a bolt.
The OLD APE tensioners modified the stock tensioners. They look funky. Maybe Kris V can post a pic of his.

[rapidray]

i'll show you how to modify your stocker then you can tell mriddle how.
i'm better at showing than telling/explaining.
i wonder if rays buddy will ship those for the same 35.00?
that would make me go hmmmmmmm in a good way

40 bucks shipped ya cheap ba$tage!!! Ray.

[ddaniels]

My 1000G did the same thing.. Never could figure out what it was. May have been the dreaded cam end walk. Doesnt hurt anything. Rode it like a scalded dog and never a problem. Just a noise that makes ya wonder. Ive often noticed that from motor to motor, some of these old GSs just sound like threshing machines even when they run like champs.. I guess just cause they're old air cooled, no water jacket to deaden the noises..

Not sure what the cam end walk is. My first GS1000G did not have this noise, and was very quiet. Guess I should've kept that one. This bike does run very well though.

[TheCafeKid]

Not sure what the cam end walk is. My first GS1000G did not have this noise, and was very quiet. Guess I should've kept that one. This bike does run very well though.

Some of the 8v GS, for whatever reason some and not all, develop a symptom where the cams will sideload as the cam chain pulls against them and "walk" back and forth in the bearing. Only does it at idle, as once you give it any throttle, the chain tightens up more, and the cams are pulled in-line and dont walk anymore. Makes for a ticky/rattly top end. But, apparently, does no damage. Some guys have let this go for years and years and never had a problem. Some guys have actually attempted a fix. If you do a search on it, there was a thread I remember reading a while back about how to fix it. Basicly, the wear in the cam cap that allows the walk (or is created by the walk i guess) is fixed, and then some meat added to keep the cam from doing it again IIRC. Another, much simpler fix, is to flip your half moons around so the flat part that would normally go on the outside (according to the manual, but to be honest, i guess ive always installed them backwards as it made more sense to me) is put on the inside. Wont eliminate it, but it gives it that much less room to move, and will quiet it down a little bit. Since there is a lip on the inside of the head when they're flipped around this way, they cant be pushed out by the cam, so no worry of that. Plus, IMO, they leak less often when installed this way.. Or maybe I just get lucky

[Guest]

Member 49er made a fix for that.

[ddaniels]

Member 49er made a fix for that.

Maybe he'll weigh in soon...

[ddaniels]

When using a manual tensioner, how do you know when you've screwed that bolt in far enough?

[OzJavelin]

I installed a manual tensioner in my Kawasaki Gpz750 last night. Instructions were to screw it in BY HAND as far as possible, then slowly turn engine over so that slack was taken up on the front-side of the chain (in my case clockwise from RHS), and continue to turn in tensioner BY HAND until it won't go in anymore. Then back off 1/6 of a turn, then tighten up locknuts. Job done.

[ddaniels]

How's it working?

[OzJavelin]

How's it working?

Fixed a constant ticking noise I've been trying to debug for about two months (not unusual for Z650/Z750 Kwakas). I was reluctant to fit the manual tensioner as it's not OEM, but I'd run out of options. Easy to fit (actually easier than auto one) and easy to setup. Not sude about longevity though?

If the system was perfect with new cam sprockets, cam chain and chain guides I'd assume the auto tensioner would be fine, but in an engine with worn parts, the manual seems a better option.

[ddaniels]

Sounds like my problem.

[Guest]

I installed an APE one couple years ago....stock one worked fine, but a member here threw one in for a few bucks more, with a pair of green coils I bought (thanks, Mr. Jiggles), so I figured why not, eh?
If you take off the valve cover before installing, you can eliminate all of the guesswork.....simply tighten to give 2 to 3 mm play in the chain, whilst advancing by hand, do up the locknut & enjoy. Check the tension every time you inspect your valve clearances. Carbs were already off to install 36s so that made it easy.

[ddaniels]

Well, I'd rather not take off the cover if I don't have too. Keep work to a minimum is my motto. Thanks for the input.

[ddaniels]

Went ahead and ordered me one. We'll see if it cures what ails the bike. If nothing else, it is an upgrade.