Paint - 2 colors

[anthony]

Hi there,
Great forum...I've been sneeking in and stealing knowlege right and left so I haven't had to post yet (SEARCH FEATURE!)

82 GS650G - First shaft drive and first Suzuki. Reserecting it from sad shape. In between mechanical items that are on the go I've been sanding and priming body parts. I've read the "do it yourself" article from the site good stuff).

Now that I've rambled, the question!
I want to do 2 colors on the bike but wonder how to go about it. Is this correct?
1/Tape off for fist color
2/paint and put clear coat
3/wait...
4/??Mask off the first color???
Paint and clear coat the second colout
5/wait...
6 put a clear coat over everything (to even out the finish)

It's what I was thinking but??? EXPERT REPLY'S?

[Anonymous]

I am new to this board but far from new to painting as I do it for a living.

I want to do 2 colors on the bike but wonder how to go about it. Is this correct?
1/Tape off for fist color
2/paint and put clear coat
3/wait...
4/??Mask off the first color???
Paint and clear coat the second colout
5/wait...
6 put a clear coat over everything (to even out the finish)

I take it you understand the preperations needed before you actually paint. Apparently since you mention clear coating you are using base coats. If this is so you wouldn't need to tape off for your primary color. Simply shoot the tank and then after the appropiate flash time (typ. 30-60 min.) After this "waiting" period you can now mask off for your second color. Wipe down with a wax and grease remover (Ditzler/PPG 330) and be sure to tack rag it. After shooting your second color and having allowed it to flash (5-15 min.) remove your tape/mask. After waiting the recommend time, wipe down with the wax/grease remover if you happened to tough the part while removing mask/tape. If in doubt, wipe it down. Depending on your experience at finish sanding and buffing, you will need 2 or 3 coats of clear before sanding ( nib and tape line elimination) and at least another coat (2 is more favorable) then final sand and and buff.

If you haven't finish sanded before, try it on something other than the part you want to finish out. If one is not careful they can cut through the clear and into the paint which may or may not be a simple repair. Buffing requires a knowledgable hand also or else one can burn through the clear and into the paint. It is very easy too cut/burn through on edges and even compound curves if one isn't watchfull. Too much heat (too high buffing speeds and or applying too much pressure on buffer) will cause darkened spots in the clear.

I want to add again the importance of practicing on something that you can afford to practice on. There is the tendency for one's day to go sour with a sand or burn through.

With all this having been said, all was intended for the use of quality automotive paint and related systems. If one is intending to rattle can it, well, the old motto of, "You can pay me now or you can pay me later" comes to mind. Rattle can jobs may be cheap and even look good but neither of these last very long!

[chuckycheese]

Boy

Boy, you really know your stuff!

[Anonymous]

Hello Anthony
Cozzee is very correct but unless u sand in between coats, there is no need to wash the parts with grease and wax remover as this should hvae been done prior to the first sanding , You just must remember to wash ur hands prior to handling any parts to b painted as ur food contains oils and contaminants that will effect the paints finish.
Lastly i would like to recomend if u r painting the parts at home in ur garage us a fast setting clear such as Duponts 7000S clear it will set up to the touch in 20 minutes. for bikes it works well but depending on the temp. u may want to paint the tank seperatly from the other parts. as this will give u plenty of time, This clear can flash of quickly with 70 + temps. This clear if applied with a steady hand will produce a finish that will not require buffing and will give u a showroom finish, unless u r looking for that $2000 show shine.
For a good flat finish to the clear i suggest to use a 135 tip on the piant gun.
When u r doing two tone paints paint the tank as Cozzie mentioned and use fineline tape to tape off the color and paint the bottom color first so when you mask off the first color the paper will hang down so u will b able to paint the top of ur parts. Hope this helps and good luck with the painting.
Regards Archie

[Anonymous]

Archie is correct about not having to wipe down wax and grease remover. I should have added that you would only need to do this is sanding or if you had touched it.

As for the clears, if you want to use PPG, go with a Concept clear. I prefer 2002 and if you use DFX11 Supercharger you can then get a quick-set clear also. The Duponts are great also but I prefer PPG because if I use the Concept line I can use the same reducers and hardeners for single and 2 stage paints/base coats and with the clears also thus cutting down on the overhead.

Boy, you really know your stuff!

Sorta! I repair/paint city transit buses for a living and custom paint and airbrush about anything for a hobby!

[whodatpat]

Gasoline eats right through rattle can paint job! Not verry good for a gas tank and a sloppy owner. It is plenty soft too, and easily scratched. I will be doing the pay me later rout since this bike came with a ratle can paint job. It sure did look pretty for a little while though.
Patrick

[anthony]

Thanks guys!

Thanks guys!
Now to ponder....