fuel injected turbo katana

**rotty** · 09-07-2010, 08:48 PM

Do you have any new pics?.

**makenzie71** · 09-07-2010, 09:19 PM

I think he posted his new pics about 6 hours ago.

**WesV** · 09-07-2010, 09:28 PM

Edit: Ignore, I misread the post at first and thought you were going with the megasquirt

**makenzie71** · 09-07-2010, 09:35 PM

I've consider an MS system...is there a reason to not use one?

**rapidray** · 09-07-2010, 11:03 PM

Eighty TWO wheels Rob?!!! I know people have different tastes but 82 wheels? With HORSEPOWER?

Ray.

**Guest** · 09-08-2010, 12:16 AM

Originally posted by rapidray

Eighty TWO wheels Rob?!!! I know people have different tastes but 82 wheels? With HORSEPOWER?

Ray.

I'm guessing that's the starting point....no doubt, they will be changed with the Gixxer/Bandit mods.

**Guest** · 09-08-2010, 12:42 AM

Do you have any new pics?.

Yes, will be posting shortly. I thought I would back up a bit and start from the beginning.

I've consider an MS system...is there a reason to not use one?

I was going to go with MegS until I found this system already on a gs1100 engine. I wish I could say I put the whole thing together myself being the smart fellow I am but I didn't.

I found no reason not to go with that system.

Eighty TWO wheels Rob?!!! I know people have different tastes but 82 wheels? With HORSEPOWER? Ray.

Your killin me Ray!!!

**Guest** · 09-08-2010, 02:35 AM

First order of business is the frame. Is it straight... YEs.
Next, clean all the tabs and bits off I don't like (center stand mounts, rear brake res mount, battery mounts ect...ect...

After its all cleaned up, start figuring out where new tabs and mounts need to go for all the new goodies. Since I was relocating the electrics, a new under pan was in order. Getting the tail light to the right position under the tail is a bit of work being the stock mount is on the inner fender and is off angle.

For bracing I did a couple things:
Pic below: A triangle piece was put in to hide some wires. Also, with the under pan I dropped it lower up front so the harness wires and others could run above and not be seen. I also used a piece of stainless steel pipe .060" wall for the subframe. I used stainless cuuuuz, I polished it and it won't be getting powder. When done the frame will be powder nd it will be an accent polished piece as well as being some structural support.

A new battery box was in order. I use a YTZ14S AGM battery. It has 230 CCA which is needed for these old 1100s. It is also small enough to turn sideways in the frame. (5.93” x 3.46” 4.37”) and weighs about a pound less. These can be used in any position other upside down. (so I am told)

I pondered over the quesion of keeping the stock pegs or moving to "rear sets"... well, after changing my mind 12 different times I decided that my main complaint with the stock set is the rear master being in the middle of my now nice clean empty space. So, I decided to relocate the master and use a GSXR master. I am going to have to make a custom brake rod being the distance to the rocker/actuator is longer now. I will turn one out of stainless steel and thread it so it covers all the threads on the GSXR push rod. It was a lot of work to move it 2"!!! the reservoir is now in behind the side cover. I will have a sight window for it as well (later pics) It only took two days to figure out a spot for it. These kats do not have much wiggle room under what little plastic is there.

With the bandit arm, and stock peg stay, the brake pivot needs attention. I cut 1mm off the inside boss of the pivot allowing the pivot shaft to move out board to help clear the arm. Also, needed to redirect the lower foot with the brake stop and trim some too. In the pic the frame is on its nose for those trying to figure out the picture. The return spring tab has to be reduced and the return stop pad had to be reduced as well to clear the arm.

I didn't do any cross bracing in the airbox area this time however, I did beef it up some with a removable bolt in chunk of aluminum. It is a solid piece right now but there will be some design changes to come.

Most everything is tacked in so off to the tigmaster for completion in the next day or two. I am sure there will be further work to do but the major job is done and anything else I can do myself as the build goes on.
I will be completely building this beast before anything does to the beauty shop.

**amxsteve** · 09-09-2010, 04:14 PM

looks like this is gonna be a fun one.I wont get to mine till about december,i gotta finish the wifes bug ragtop first.are you gonna stretch this one out with the turbo it might be a necessity or a real handfull for sure

**Guest** · 09-09-2010, 05:45 PM

Originally posted by amxsteve

are you gonna stretch this one out with the turbo it might be a necessity or a real handfull for sure

Yesir, This will be long and lean.

**Guest** · 09-10-2010, 01:19 AM

Frame has gone to "tig city". Now is a good time to sort out the fuel delivery. With fuel injection there are many considerations.
- fuel pump
-40 micron pre-pump filter, 10 micron post pump filter
-fuel valve/or not
-return line into tank
-fuel rail feed
-kats have no gas gauge and running out and switching to res is not an option
-check valves
-hose routing
-fuel pressure regulator
-air bleed line from pump
-fuel pump amps, our 1100s have little to spare

Then I guess the consideration of how to get the tank off when needed without fuel dumping everywhere.

I am also considering a surge tank since the old tanks are so open and sloshy. I have had about 1/2 the experts line up on each side so I will make a decision and go with it.

It isn't plumbing it that is a problem so much as how it looks when it is done. My goal is as open a look as I can get without clutter. I have thought long and hard, spent many a minutes stairing, adjusting, moving, removing, readjusting and I think I have a plan.

I am going to use an sv650 fuel warning thermistor. I like those cuuuuuuz... they have to thermistors which will give me a low light and a critical warning light. They also thread in so I just have to weld a bung into the bottom of the tank, right beside my return line bung.

I am also doing a custom gas cap which may or may not be vented, so, aditional check valves will be needed if I go with non vented.

My fuel rail is 1mm from touching my side panels so I have two options:
1. modify the side covers to allow fittings in each end of the rail.
2. cap the ends, drill and tap the center of the rail running a "T" to incoming fuel and fuel regulator.

**scottychop** · 09-11-2010, 12:08 PM

This is going to be a great thread. Make sure and post a LOT of pics.

**Guest** · 09-12-2010, 02:57 PM

I have decided to mount a surge tank on the bike. This functions like the float bowls of the carbs. Throttle bodies do not have foat bowls. The stock gs1100 bowls hold about 10oz of gas so that is about what my surge tank will hold. Basically a small can of tomato soup.

Others have told me that they have had success without the surge but I really don't want to get into leaning out conditions when the tank is low on fuel.

With the surge tank being fed by the main tank the pump will have a constant source of fuel in all conditions. The goal is to reduce the sloshing around of fuel and since the katana tank is just a big bath tub the fuel is quite mobile in there when fuel levels are low.

Modern bikes like gsxrs have tanks that are baffled off or are constructed with a deep well where the pump is so that sloshing isn't a problem.

My tank will be about 2.5" in diameter x maybe 6" long standing on end. Think of a large toilet paper roll standing on end. Of course that means running even more plumbing in an already crowded house. I will post pics when I make it out of a 2.5" tube of alum.

**Sunburn** · 09-12-2010, 07:38 PM

SIMPLY DIGIGAL SYSTEMS seems a bit pricey compared to the Mega Squirt. Did you get a deal on it?

fuel injected turbo katana

fuel injected turbo katana

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