DJ Stage 3 Jet Kit on GS850G - Removal of "float bowl vent tubes"???

[Darin Jordan]

Don't sound like a main jet issue. I'd leave it be for now.
Did you use the correct bit to drill the slides?
New pilot jet plugs?

Ya also have to glue something(don't know what its called).
Did ya glue anything anywhere? Its a little air restrictor located on the same side of the carbs as the air jet.
Someone is bound to know the correct terminology for this little task.

Edit. Looked at my instructions.
DJ is calling it a "main air jet passage" and the part your supposed to clue in there is called a "air corrector".
Shoulda came with the kit.

Tech called them the air jets, but either way, YES, they are there, and are in the right place, and are glued in. I'm suppose to use some pin guages and measure them to make sure they are the correct .042" size, however... they are whatever came in the kit.

And yes, the slides were drilled with the correct bit... 7/64"...

Yes to new pilot jet plugs, gaskets, o-rings, intakes, etc.

No to new floats, needle, or seats, which are all original OEM parts and looked and functioned fine.

[blowerbike]

my experience with DJ is...
you have to have 100% stock/perfect working order carbs and then install the kit 100% as they tell you.
no variance unless your at a high altitude or such.
i used to install these kits before these bikes became 25 years old and the carbs started deteriorating/people changing parts/levels ect.. and i had zero problems with there kits.
all the bikes i did had the airbox still installed and had not been touched as far as changes being made.
triple check everything and i mean everything.
run the bike off of a fuel cell if your tank/vent/valve is in question.
DO NOT USE EMGO FILTERS.
your bike should run the same with filters on as with filters off.

[Octain]

Tech called them the air jets, but either way, YES, they are there, and are in the right place, and are glued in. I'm suppose to use some pin guages and measure them to make sure they are the correct .042" size, however... they are whatever came in the kit.

And yes, the slides were drilled with the correct bit... 7/64"...

Yes to new pilot jet plugs, gaskets, o-rings, intakes, etc.

No to new floats, needle, or seats, which are all original OEM parts and looked and functioned fine.

I dont get it. MIne was dang near plug and play. I did move the clips around a time or two but it was never so far off that it wouldnt run good.
How do the plugs look? Might not hurt to put in a new(NEW) set.

Forgive me if I missed it but you did go through the carbs 10000% right?
Anything you couldnt get apart? Did ya soak the bodys for a day in Berrymans carb dip?

[Darin Jordan]

How do the plugs look? Might not hurt to put in a new(NEW) set.

I'll do that just for drill. After the last ride, the plugs were a little black around the outside, and just a light hint of brown on the electrodes... Not as brown as I'd like to see.

Forgive me if I missed it but you did go through the carbs 10000% right?
Anything you couldnt get apart? Did ya soak the bodys for a day in Berrymans carb dip?

I had everything apart, soaked, blown out, dried, and all put together new, with the exception fo the needle and seat, floats, and slides. All gaskets and o-rings are new. Chokes are original parts. Mixture screws turn freely and are not broken at the tips.

[Darin Jordan]

Seems my trouble-shooting has migrated to this new thread, so I'll update here...

OK, last night I tinkered and started going back over things....

Main Air Correctors measured out to the appropriate .042" and are all in place.

Air Jet (Jet on left side of carb inlet) were re-verified to be 180s, which I believe is stock.

Did the WD-40 test around the new intake boots... no leaks found.

Removed fuel-line and did a petcock fuel flow test. Fuel seems to be flowing well, with what appears to be normal volume.

Per the DJ tech, removed the air-pods... on the stand, if you go from warmed up idle to WOT, it will stumble at around 2,000, carb slides will flutter up a bit, and then it seems to get past it and revs up.

If I put some wide masking tape across 1/3 or so of the carb inlets, there is no stumble or flutter and it just revs up.

Put airpods back on with approximately 1/2 of the filter taped up and rode it down the road. Was wet outside, so I could really get on it, but it still appeared to have the stumble around 5500 or so.

Removed the plugs and they look like this:



Cleaned up the plugs. They cleaned right up with minimal work. Underneath the little bit of idle residue on them, they look lean to me. If it was too rich, I'd expect to see way more color.

NEXT steps are to verify the actual fuel level in the floats. Hopefully I'll have some clear fuel line today to make that happen.

If all that checks out, I'm not sure which direction to go.

Other things to check are going to be the valve lash, and the Ignition timing. Found the valve lash tutorial. Done lots of those on Japanese and British cars, so it doesn't look like a problem to do. From looking at the screw heads, it appears the Cam covers have been off this bike before, so we'll have to see what we find when I get in there.

Is there an ignition timing tutorial around here somewhere? I couldn't find it on BassCliff's site. (however, it's 4:00am right now, so it's possible I just missed it... )

Not giving up yet, though I did drag out the stock airbox, just in case... It's kind of a mess and I REALLY don't want to have to use it.

I'll get this figured out eventually.

[Darin Jordan]

Just an aside....

While I was tinkering around last night, I decided to see if I could make something work. On our racecars, helping to direct airflow into the carb, especially on my Weber carbs (48 IDA, etc.) was always important.

I figured that, since the Suzuki engineers spend the time to develop the very nice air inlets boots that are on the factory airbox, and since I have a brand new set of them, and the clamps here, why not see if they'd work inside the K&Ns? Might help to reduce the air turbulance and straighten out the airflow where it enters the carbs...

Well... They fit right in! Haven't tried riding it with these, and I'm sure they won't FIX my issue, so I can't vouch for how they'll work, but... based on past experience with other applications, perhaps it'll help... Will let you know at some point.

[Darin Jordan]

Quick Question: I've scoured through all the the carb rebuilding tutorials, and don't see this addressed...

In the attached picture, I've circled an aluminum plug that plugs a passage between the float bowl (flange area) and the carb outlet.

In the tutorials on how to rebuild the carb, this plug appears to be left in place thought the rebuild process, an indication to me that it is fixed in place (press fit, glued, ???), or otherwise not removable, or not removed during rebuild?

Is this the case?

If so, on MINE, they were removed (they tapped right out) and cleaned up and put back into place, able to slide freely in their hole, with the rubber flat-sided o-ring placed between the plug and the float-bowl gasket, as it was originally assembled.

If this plug was suppose to be SEALED in place, then THIS could be part of the issue, wouldn't it?? Would be causing issues in the float bowl, as well as letting in additional air??

Figured, since I was trying to cover all my bases, I'd ask.

[Octain]

I've never seen or heard of that part being moved or removed.
I dint even know it was removable.
I'm stumped. Hopefully someone with more experience than me will chime in.
Betcha it's something simple.

[Skateguy50]

I have read on other carb rebuild threads that part can be removed and it is held back in place using clear nail polish I believe. (around the edges not smeared over the top)

[hjfisk]

I've had them fall out before during a cleaning. I just put them back in place and put the oring over them and reassembled the carbs never had a problem .

[Darin Jordan]

More checking results, and questions

Visually checked the fuel levels with a clear tube and they are right on.

Pulled the carbs back off tonight and removed the float bowls to re-verify everything. Rechecked float height, inspected all the jets, etc. Sealed the little aluminum plugs I mentioned before, reinspected the needle/seats... Everything looks good.

Two questions, however.

Looking at the "GS Resources Caburetor Clean & Repair Pictorial", and comparing the carbs in the picture to mine, I noticed something that looks curious.

On the float-bowl mounting flange, on the carb body, there is a small hole that the gasket goes around, but the float bowl doesn't cover it. The hole is essentially open and uncovered when the carbs are assembled. See the attached picture... the red-circled area.

In the Pictorial, on the example carbs, there doesn't appear to be a hole in this location, or it's covered./plugged.

Is this hole suppose to be uncovered?? Is it possible these carbs have incorrect float bowls??

Second, I mentioned before that the "Main Air Jets", the larger jets on the left side of the air-filter side of the carb, are 180's. If I'm reading the specifications correctly, these are suppose to be 1.7's?? What should the jet read if it's a stock jet as far as the number goes?

[Darin Jordan]

Second, I mentioned before that the "Main Air Jets", the larger jets on the left side of the air-filter side of the carb, are 180's. If I'm reading the specifications correctly, these are suppose to be 1.7's?? What should the jet read if it's a stock jet as far as the number goes?

On the Bike Bandit site, the parts listing for the carbs appears to show the jet in question as the "68: Jet Pilot Air 1032772 (434835-001)" This appears to be the same jet I'm talking about above.

[Darin Jordan]

Here is another example of a BS32SS Carb float-bowl flange without this hole open.

I'm trying to find an example picture where it's like mine... Hole drilled and the float bowl NOT covering it. Being a second/third, maybe fourth-hand bike, I don't know it's full history, so I'm just trying to make sure that what I started with was the appropriate baseline. Seems odd to me to have a hole like this in a carb, purposefully left open, but with a gasket and flange all the way around it as if it should have been covered.

[Darin Jordan]

Second, I mentioned before that the "Main Air Jets", the larger jets on the left side of the air-filter side of the carb, are 180's. If I'm reading the specifications correctly, these are suppose to be 1.7's?? What should the jet read if it's a stock jet as far as the number goes?

I did some searching and found a set of specifications that show this jet varying from 180 to 190... but either way, it looks like it's part of the slow speed system and shouldn't really have any affect either way on the open throttle performance.

I'm running out of things to eliminate in this process of elimination...

[Octain]

More checking results, and questions

Visually checked the fuel levels with a clear tube and they are right on.

Pulled the carbs back off tonight and removed the float bowls to re-verify everything. Rechecked float height, inspected all the jets, etc. Sealed the little aluminum plugs I mentioned before, reinspected the needle/seats... Everything looks good.

Two questions, however.

Looking at the "GS Resources Carburetor Clean & Repair Pictorial", and comparing the carbs in the picture to mine, I noticed something that looks curious.

On the float-bowl mounting flange, on the carb body, there is a small hole that the gasket goes around, but the float bowl doesn't cover it. The hole is essentially open and uncovered when the carbs are assembled. See the attached picture... the red-circled area.

In the Pictorial, on the example carbs, there doesn't appear to be a hole in this location, or it's covered./plugged.

Is this hole suppose to be uncovered?? Is it possible these carbs have incorrect float bowls??

Second, I mentioned before that the "Main Air Jets", the larger jets on the left side of the air-filter side of the carb, are 180's. If I'm reading the specifications correctly, these are suppose to be 1.7's?? What should the jet read if it's a stock jet as far as the number goes?

Mine also have two different sized air jets. If I remember correctly(without looking) the two inside carbs have 180 and the outers have 170. I've often wondered about that one myself. But it runs fine so I just ride it.
Shouldnt have anything to do with the issue your having. From the info I gather these are mainly your idle circuit. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I had to read back to see if you'd mentioned, where do you have the mix screws set?
According to my instructions they should be 4 turns out from lightly seated.