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Drilling out JB Weld from exhaust bolt thread?

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    #16
    Ok, I went ahead and shifted the engine enough for me to get proper clearance to continue drilling a straight hole. I'm getting very close to the full depth of the bolt and it seems like I'm drilling through something. The hole I've drilled is smaller than the diameter of the bolt. Should I go larger and over size the hole and tap it or stick with the size I've drilled and tap that? Pics showing the depth and diameter of the hole I've drilled

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      #17
      Step the drill size up until you just barely see the threads on the bottom side of the hole. You can then use a Dremel tool to grind a groove in the top side of the hole. Then with a punch or a small chisel type tool (you may need to grind something into shape) you may be able to "pick" the two halves out. Then clean the original threads out with a tap.
      Alan

      sigpic
      Weaned on a '74 450 Honda
      Graduated to an '82 GS850GL
      Now riding an '83 GS1100GL
      Added an '82 GS1100GL

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        #18
        Originally posted by AMK View Post
        Step the drill size up until you just barely see the threads on the bottom side of the hole. You can then use a Dremel tool to grind a groove in the top side of the hole. Then with a punch or a small chisel type tool (you may need to grind something into shape) you may be able to "pick" the two halves out. Then clean the original threads out with a tap.
        Excellent. This is the route I will go. Appreciate everyone offering insight. Love this forum!

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          #19
          You gotta get more in the center of the old screw. And pick up a LH drill set from Harbor Freight. As the shell of the bolt gets thinner it will spin out from drilling torque. That's the beauty of the LH bits.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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            #20
            Well I took a stroll up **** creek today. Got a nice 7/16 hole drilled. Started tapping with a 8mm 1.25 tap, got about 5/7 of the way maybe 13/17 or 17/21, take you're fractional pick. Met some resistance, haven't tapped a bunch before so I don't know how much torque is too much for knowing when to stop and reevaluate. I know to one turn quarter turn back. Well she snapped like a dry branch. Flush break. Can't get a grip on it. Most of the tap is in there. Any thoughts? Should I buy a Walton extractor and try that??

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              #21
              Had the same problem only I didn't snap the tap off. Another thing that can help is heat and cold, metal is very conductive and therefore sensitive to temperature changes. If you can't drill it out then try loosening it with alternating heat(aka blow drier) n cold. Retapping a bolt is such a pain and requires lots lots lots of patients . I feel for ya, good luck

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                #22
                Originally posted by Kodak View Post
                Well I took a stroll up **** creek today. Got a nice 7/16 hole drilled. Started tapping with a 8mm 1.25 tap, got about 5/7 of the way maybe 13/17 or 17/21, take you're fractional pick. Met some resistance, haven't tapped a bunch before so I don't know how much torque is too much for knowing when to stop and reevaluate. I know to one turn quarter turn back. Well she snapped like a dry branch. Flush break. Can't get a grip on it. Most of the tap is in there. Any thoughts? Should I buy a Walton extractor and try that??

                Did you mean 17/64 drill? Did you get all of the bolt out or did you drill and tap what you had?
                Your hole was off center and if you left part of the bolt in then you were trying to tap part steel and part aluminum.
                I think the part steel then came loose and jammed against the tap and broke it.
                Send us a picture so we can see where you are now.
                Alan

                sigpic
                Weaned on a '74 450 Honda
                Graduated to an '82 GS850GL
                Now riding an '83 GS1100GL
                Added an '82 GS1100GL

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                  I take my MIG welder and lay a fat spot weld on those broke exhaust bolts. The weld will not stick to the head and it hurts nothing. Let the first fat spot weld cool and do another right on top of the first. Repeat the process till there is enough past the head surface to grab with vice grips. The heating and cooling of doing the series of spot weld help crack the corrosion seizing the bolt too.

                  Oil the crap out of it with your fav penetrating oil and start working it back and forth to use the threads to grind up the crud in there. Youll soon see its getting easier and easier to move the stud...then slowly start removing it ..work back and forth and be patient.
                  This method might work for you.
                  "Only fe' collected the old way, has any value." from His Majesty O'Keefe (1954 film)
                  1982 GS1100G- road bike, body, seat and suspension modded
                  1990 GSX750F-(1127cc '92 GSXR engine) track bike, much re-engineered
                  1987 Honda CBR600F Hurricane; hooligan bike, restored

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                    #24
                    weld may not stick to the carbide taps. He may well be screwed now. Guess he can at least give it a try though. First I would get an old tap and try welding to it on the bench to see if it sticks rather than waste my time down on the head itself.
                    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Kodak View Post
                      Well I took a stroll up **** creek today. Got a nice 7/16 hole drilled. Started tapping with a 8mm 1.25 tap, got about 5/7 of the way maybe 13/17 or 17/21, take you're fractional pick. Met some resistance, haven't tapped a bunch before so I don't know how much torque is too much for knowing when to stop and reevaluate. I know to one turn quarter turn back. Well she snapped like a dry branch. Flush break. Can't get a grip on it. Most of the tap is in there. Any thoughts? Should I buy a Walton extractor and try that??
                      Damn that sucks, The taps are fluted so the shavings have a place to go, can you get a fine point punch on one of those and work it back out tapping it around or are the flute to deep? pACE3-997626dt.jpg.
                      GSRick
                      No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.

                      Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
                      Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.

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                        #26
                        Or a modified pair of needle nose pliers down the flutes?? Lots of air to flush the chips out, some oil, and maybe get lucky to get the tap to move??? Snap ring pliers may also reach maybe???
                        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          This tool may work. http://www.waltontools.com/products/extractr.htm
                          GSRick
                          No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.

                          Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
                          Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Maybe if the taps not broke off down a hole. Think he said his broke off below the surface.
                            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              I'm having trouble posting images, but if you scroll to the bottom of the page you can see it is designed to work even if it is broken down in the hole.
                              GSRick
                              No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.

                              Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
                              Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                HI Kodak , hope you get it out , if you do , look in to time sert , not helicoil , I did my head and sparkplug holes . makes a much better job ,Time-Sert 1812 M8 x 1.25 Metric Thread Repair Kit on ebay #282289364765 they have all sizes that one is just to show you , where helicoil will pull out these will not ,

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