Looking for opinions on paint colors

[tautog]

I'm in the midst of tearing my 81 GS650E down for repainting and to unfsck the wiring harness that was "engineered" by a previous owner.

Here's the paint scheme from the factory:


Where I am right now:


Right now, this is what I'm thinking:
Tank, bodywork, wheels, front fender - Lexus high metallic black, like this:


I'm thinking a single silver highlight stripe on the tank to offset the black and accent the metal flake a little..

Frame, forks, swing arm - Ford Silver Frost:


The various hardware, calipers, etc, will probably be gloss black.

I'm not much with Photoshop, but it makes sense in my head... Comments?

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Right now, this is what I'm thinking:
Tank, bodywork, wheels, front fender - Lexus high metallic black, like this:

You said you want your wheels this color too? I'd say no to that. The wheels should be black I think. Other than that, pretty cool paint scheme.

[Ranger]

If you can, try and add some shading in that color so the contour lines on the bike will stand out a bit. Also if you do the wheels give them either a flat or metallic color and it'll be cool. My 2 cents.

[tautog]

Sort of the look I'm thinking

Got my wife motivated and she whipped up this:



She basically stripped the color from a photo I found online and shaded it in. A lot of the nuance is lost, but I think I like the overall look...

[ddaniels]

I didn't think I would, but I kinda like the silver frame with the black other parts. I'd also put some kind of silver accent along the side of the tank and side covers.

[tautog]

You said you want your wheels this color too? I'd say no to that. The wheels should be black I think. Other than that, pretty cool paint scheme.

It wasn't my idea, but I think I like the bi-color wheels in the altered photo. I was kind of wondering if all black would be too much for my eyes and some photos I've seen elsewhere lend to that.

The engine cylinders will probably be gloss black with sanded edges like an old XR Harley, with the crankcase and camcovers being either polished or satined. That will give it some of that night train look without looking like I rattle canned the whole thing.

If you can, try and add some shading in that color so the contour lines on the bike will stand out a bit. Also if you do the wheels give them either a flat or metallic color and it'll be cool. My 2 cents.

I appreciate the donation... On the wheels, see above, I'm thinking a two tone with the high metallic on the centers and silver rims... I didn't notice it until I'd looked at the pic a few times and then it really clicked for me...

I didn't think I would, but I kinda like the silver frame with the black other parts. I'd also put some kind of silver accent along the side of the tank and side covers.

I'm pretty sure that the side covers won't make it back on the bike (they're in okay condition, but I'm going for the "airy" look that Ducati does so well (former 800SS and ST2 owner here), where you see "through" the bike).

But, I'm thinking that a silver stripe that somehow follows the top contour of the tank or a band in the center, through the badge, is in order. I'll try to carry it into an accent on the tail cowling.

Thanks for the feedback and ideas, everyone!

[tautog]

Progress Update

Decided to schedule a few days off this week before work gets busy again and I start back to school.

The frame is bare and I've cleaned up most of the crappy factory welds, derusted it, and sanded the lumpy spots. Here's some photos of it in primer and sealed:



another view:



I couldn't resist, here's the side stand in the silver that I chose:



I'm using all Duplicolor-brand rattle-cans for all of the prep coats and for the silver. The black will come from leftovers from a job done last fall. It just didn't make sense to pay $60 for a pint of color-matched paint, when I can buy the aerosol stuff for about about 90% less. Excluding the black paint, the total cost for materials for the complete paint job will be in the neighborhood of $50.

Hopefully, the paint-work will get done this week and I'll start re-assembling as I have time after that...

[tautog]

More progress today

Moving right along - most of the first coat of base color is on the frame.

I'm really liking the way this color is looking and how it's laying out:





Some of my sins (well, my lack of correcting Suzuki's sins ;-) ) are apparent here:



That's not a run on that down-tube, it's fresh paint over a previous sweep:



The swing arm is next, it's soaking in degreaser right now and I'm hoping to work on it tonight and get the initial coat of primer on it. Depending on the number of interruptions I get, I should be able to get the sealer applied before I give up for the day. It has a lot of mung that needs cleaned off, though.

Chris

[tautog]

More progress...

First coat of clear:



Another angle:



Detail shots:





It's going to need AT LEAST another another coat of clear, maybe two (well, two if I'm throwing it, one if it's my brother - "hammer it on" he says...).

Chris

[Redneck]

That frame is looking nice. I like the silver frame concept. I almost went silver and green on mine.

Paul

[tautog]

Bit by bit.

A little example of how nasty this bike was/is:



I stripped the old clear coat off the boot guards and sanded the corrosion out. I don't plan to have much exposed aluminum on this project, so the freshly sanded aluminum will be sealed with zinc chromate primer, then filler primed, sealed, based coated and then cleared. They'll probably end up straight black, or with the black mica paint that will also go on the tank and other body work. I'll decide when I see them with a color coat.

Here's both plates coated with ZC (a little green for you, Paul ):



Zinc chromate is the same stuff I use in my marine shop when fixing corrosion on boats and it's also used on aircraft (you usually see it when a door or hatch is open). It's pretty nasty stuff, but does a great job of keeping aluminum from oxidizing and bubbling your paint. Application is a bear, too, as the carrier is usually pretty thin and it takes 3-4 coats to get complete coverage (and you're hurrying the entire time to coat the aluminum before the oxides form).

Here's the swingarm and caliper brace with their first coat of base. They'll get another coat of base, then 2-3 coats of clear. If the clear continues to lay down okay, I might put an extra coat of clear on the swingarm to protect again debris damage (like pebbles and junk thrown up from the road surface).



Chris

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Impressive work. I'm liking all the pictures. Thanks for sharing!


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[tautog]

Thanks for the kind words and feedback everyone, I hope the pictures and commentary are useful (to someone). Just trying to give back to a community that's helped me for more than a decade..

Anyway, been a busy day... Good thing I have an understanding wife!

A couple shots of the swing arm with the clear coat applied:



This shot gives an idea of the depth (keep in mind nothing has been buffed out, so the surface is going to look wrinkly, kinda like me ). It's got that "wet" look I love:



Here's the heel guards or kick plates, or whatever they're called:



I locked the flash on for this shot, you can see the mica better in the original photo as the resizing process is lossy (follow the link in my signature):



I like the color and the contrast with the silver makes me happy. What I'm not happy with is how the zinc chromate is interacting with the lacquer-based paint I'm using. I'm a little concerned that everything will need to be blasted raw and then a urethane- or epoxy-based sealer applied over the ZC.

Or, I might have to forgo the ZC entirely...

We'll see if everything settles down after sitting overnight.

Chris