Page last modified: 01/21/04

The best tip for this bike that I know is, to get rid of the dumb anti-dive crap on the front brakes. Most people probably know about this one but, for those who don't...

• Drain the fluid, take off the short hose that goes between the rear most caliper connection and the anti-dive unit in the front.
• Take the brake bolt from the front and use it to attach the brake hose from the master cylinder to the caliper.
• Ditch the short length of hose and the double length bolt. Replace the front bolt with a regular bolt the correct thread size.

Do this for both calipers [you might want to refill the brake system at this point, ed.] and now you have brakes that work. I did this for my 1982 GS1100 and man, I can stop! I'm going to braided steel lines this Spring.

Hmmm, said the tech editor... I happen to have a GS1100EZ of 1982 with the anti-dive-crap on the front fork still intact, and I can lock the front wheel alright with two fingers on the lever... and I don't have any complaints about lever feedback.

He might be right, but then again I have no problems braking at all. And the anti-dive crap seems to work, I was glad having it on during my few weeks of mountain riding and doing some downhill braking.

To get better brake action, Ritzo Mutinga replaced the standard brake pump with a Lockheed pump, which does indeed give better action.

Comments, anyone?

So, before you go about following Craig's advice, prepare for a route back should you wish so.
BTW: I agree fully with Craig's advice on braided steel brake hoses - they are a must.

-Peter Huppertz

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