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modified: 09/03/08
Stator Papers I
A primer on GS charging systems
by Peter Huppertz
(with updates by the current editors)
This article goes into the theoretical aspects of the charging
problems on some Suzuki GS models. It tries (successfully!) to
identify the source of the problem, and (inconclusively) the cause
as well.
During the time that this piece of prose has been on-line, some
questions were asked, from which I learnt a few things:
- it was actually read, which indicates that it is indeed
helpful
- the problem hit a lot of people
- some people had information that was very useful as well
- the article was incomplete and needed some practical
information
From this feedback, I compiled some
sort of FAQ. It is advised, though, that you consume the primer
first, because the theory therein I think is essential for
understanding what's in the FAQ, and the answers in the FAQ refer to
the article. Even if you are familiar with the concepts, the stuff
hereunder will contain information and assumptions which are
GS-specific... and if nothing else, you may spot errors and deserve
honour and undying gratitude by pointing these out to me!
If you have an item of note...
that you feel is of value and should be
featured for the Stator Pages, simply put your item in our forum
using a GS Stators topic. We will be checking out the
forums often. If we see an item or tip that we feel everyone
would be interested in reading, we will notify you via email to let
you know that we would like to include it in this section.
The Primer
Every car and motorbike carries a battery. Such a
device comes in handy when electricity is required to drive the
ignition and to make light bulbs glow et cetera. Now, as you may
know, a charged battery will not remain fully charged when you draw
power from it. To prevent the battery from becoming empty, car and
bike designers equip their fruits with contraptions to recharge the
battery while the engine is running. This is commonly known as a
charging circuit.
The central part in a charging circuit is an AC
Alternator. The alternator consists of a rotor, basically a large
hollow magnetic cylinder driven by the engine's crankshaft, and a
stator, which is a series of coils located inside the rotor. As the
world turns... eehm, cough, excuse me. As the engine turns, the
rotor circulates (usually at crankshaft speed times one, since in
most designs it is mounted directly at the side of the crankshaft)
around the coils of the stator, which causes said stator to generate
an electrical current - in most case AC current, some 75 volts or
so.

Now, what to do with all this power? The most useful
thing I can think of is: shove it into the battery. Lucky for me,
automotive designers agree with me, which prevents me from having to
recharge my battery at home after every other ride.
Of course, if one would apply all this current
unregulated and unrectified to a 12 V DC battery, some mightily
funny and interesting natural phenomena could be witnessed. You
might want to do this for empirical purposes, but I advise you to
pick a battery that is in the winter of its existence anyway. Stand
back while the experiment is going on
If we decide that we don't want this (and you may
take it from me that in general we don't, especially when our own
cars or bikes are involved), we will have to in some way convert
this AC into DC, and regulate the voltage to something exceeding 12
V by a reasonable margin, say, somewhere between 13.9 and 14.5
volts.
This is where the regulator/rectifier unit comes in.
It converts AC to DC basically by flipping the negative part of the
sine wave over to the other side of the X-axis. Ideally, a condenser
somewhere will saw off the peaks of the sinuses, making it look more
or less like a block wave with the negative parts flipped over to
the positive side, and thus we have DC. Furthermore, it regulates
the current until a potential of about 14 volts remain. Now this is
something we can feed into the battery and lo and behold, our
battery is getting a free charge as we ride and ride through the
countryside! (believe me, it works in urban areas as well, but that
just doesn't have that poetic ring to it).
Of course, at a certain point in time, assuming that
electricity generated will exceed consumption at normal cruising
speeds, the battery will attain a state at which maximum charge is
reached. The relentless feeding of more current into it will be
resisted by the battery. Only a small potential difference should
remain, which is called trickle charge. The excess energy will be
sunk somewhere - as heat. Ideally this will happen in the
regulator/rectifier unit, which is busy regulating the current
anyway. Therefore it is usually equipped with a heat sink.
Ok, enough theory. Are you still with me?
Now to our particular example, which happens to be
my beloved motorcycle, and probably yours as well. In my case,
electrical power is generated in three so-called phases. First and
second phase are active constantly, and thus the distinction is
purely academic for this topic. Now then. Some sly engineer rightly
assumed that when the lights are off (in Japan, people seem to ride
with the lights off a lot), the consumption of electricity is down a
good deal. Apart from the electric starter, the lights are the
biggest consumer of electricity you can find on any bike -- other
than a Honda Goldwing Interstate GL1500 six cylinder with
aftermarket heated seat, heated handlebars, heated footrests, a
large stereo, a TV/VCR combo, a minibar, a microwave oven and
probably a fuel pump the size and power of your mum's spin-drier.
So, contemplated our engineer, if we don't have our lights on, we
might as well sink off the current from the third phase right away!
And via a wily wiring scheme, that's exactly what happens on my
bike.
Silly, one would think, since if we would utilize
this third phase, exactly the same thing would happen. The excess
energy would be regulated away by the regulator/rectifier and sunk
away as well, and if nothing else it would also save some wire.
There must be something behind this, we (Theo, a colleague of mine
and I) reckoned, as we were contemplating the molten coils of my
stator, as well as some diodes in my regulator/rectifier that had
suddenly turned into ordinary wires. And indeed there was.
As Ritzo Muntinga of ElectroSport Industries told
us: by design, the regulator/rectifier unit does not regulate the
third phase! Now, what does this lead to? Anyone who can answer this
may stay after class and clean the blackboard... no hands? Okay
then. Here goes. Given that we here in Europe have our lights on
almost constantly, and I understand you US citizens aren't even able
to switch them off, we are using the third phase extensively. Lights
on or not, we may safely assume that at normal cruising speeds the
electricity generated will still exceed consumption -- except maybe
on the previously described Goldwing. But my guess is that on such a
bike, switching the light on would not make a measurable impact on
electricity consumption). So we end up with a battery filled to the
brim, and a regulator/rectifier unit trying to give the battery
everything it has from the third phase.
Now then. I am not quite sure about this, so I will
have to confirm this with Theo, but my guess is this: the
regulator/rectifier unit gives the battery what the battery wants,
and REFUSES TO ACCEPT ANYTHING MORE THAN THAT FROM THE GENERATOR!
This leaves our generator with the sudden unexpected task of sinking
the excess energy into -- somewhere. Our poor stator has no choice
than to sink this for a large part into its own coils.
Let me put it this way: don't try this at home. I
can imagine that for experimental reasons you might want to overheat
a coil, but you would choose one that you wouldn't need once the
experiment is over. Certainly you would not choose the coils from
the generator of the automotive device that your dad takes out for a
spin for work and pleasure, would you?
And to add insult to injury: by virtue of some
devious natural law that I don't know the foggiest about (surely
Theo will try to explain this to me once again), at the very moment
that the stator blows its top, some diodes in the
regulator/rectifier unit die a horrible, asphyxiating death. Which
leaves you with a bike that don't charge and a projected repair bill
of something like $500, excluding labour. Thank you verrry much.
Luckily there is a bike parts shop in the
northernmost part of our country who know what's going on -- in fact
they started the spark that lead to the abovestanding
contemplations, assumptions and conclusions. But they didn't stop
there. They also sell a heavily modified regulator/rectifier unit
that regulates all three phases and does not do the unnecessary
phase shift trick when you flip the light switch. And total costs,
including a brand new stator for the generator, amounted to no more
than $250.
The regulator/rectifier is manufactured and distributed in the
USA by ElectroSport
Industries. So, without further ado, here's their banner:

Some people have resorted to using the regulator/rectifier of a
Honda CB750 (the 16-valve model). A caution against this trick
seems appropriate, though. I have also seen someone doing the Honda
regulator/rectifier trick. However, the heat sink of this unit is
quite small, and especially the post-80 GS's, with their beefier
alternator, seems to burden the unit a good deal.
In my friend's case, the unit did get terribly hot on longish
trips, which in general is not healthy for electronic components.
After less than two years, the guy had his unit fried and another
stator gone to meet its maker. So, people living in the warmer parts
of the world, as well as those who maker longer trips regularly
might want to beware when
they do this
One tip: it seems to be possible to extend the life of the stator
by keeping the engine oil level topped up religiously! In an effort
to circumvent the problem, Suzuki San has the stator running in
engine oil, in order to try to let the stator keep its cool under
all this stress.
I am again a happy man. Anybody interested in an offline battery
charger?
Related reading:
The Stator Papers I: A
Primer on GS charging systems (you
should've read that first, it explains the theory referred to in this Q&A)
The
Stator Papers II: FAQs
The Stator Papers III - The Solution, details
about the availability of the Electrex unit.
The Stator Papers IV - The Fault Finding Chart,
a comprehensive, step-by-step fault finding
procedure.
The Stator Papers V - Cause #1 for failing
charging systems: bad conductivity!
The Stator Papers VI - How to rewind your own
stator
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