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Page last modified: 09/03/08 DrivetrainNote: Email addresses and links listed in this Q&A section may no longer be valid!
DATE: January 29, 2000 I have an 82 GS450TX that I have owned for about 2yrs. If the bike is stationary I can't shift the gears. If I am moving it shifts just fine. I have had the bike worked on by a shop to adjust the clutch cable and have replaced the clutch cable. It still will not shift when stopped. Is this normal or is there a bigger problem? RIDER: John Both REPLY: Chris Hunter So adjust the cable at the lever so that the entire range of lever motion disengages the clutch. If this doesn't help, then your clutch plates are worn down and need to be replaced. DATE: December 12, 1999 Somehow there has been a disconnect between the engine and tranny. It happened while tooling along the road no warning noises no bangs just no power to the rear. The engine starts and runs great and I can shift through all 5 gears but there she sit. I hope it's a simple fix but I'm ready for the hard stuff also. Pls advise, Aloha from Oahu, Hi RIDER: Derrick Simmons REPLY: Sandra Whitney The only other thing it could be is the gear on your crankshaft that spins your clutch basket (but this is highly unlikely). DATE: November 27, 1999 I replaced my clutch with new set of Barnett friction plates and new drive plates. I still get major slippage in all gears after 5000 rpm. If i goose the throttle real hard the motor will rev up to 10000 RPM's and then gradually go back. I do not know if it will catch on its own as I am afraid to let the motor drop back on its own. I always let off the gas and then get back on it with a lighter hand. I do not want to put anymore money into this bike. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Is there an easy fix? Or does this sound like the death toll for this bike? I am at the point where I will just get rid of it and get another. Help!! RIDER: Scott R. Coy REPLY: Robert Hyde I noticed a groove at the bottom of the inner clutch basket. inquired at a few shops and finally found one that knew about this part called a RING WASHER STOPPER that holds the first steel plate tight against the basket. After installation of this part I noticed a HUGE improvement, however, it still acted up at higher Rpm's around 8,000. so I upped the springs to Cir Cycle high tension and now my bike is awesome. Shame about the snow up here, oh well I now know that next year will be fun. I hope you this helps you solve your problem. I have never
felt such a feeling of satisfaction as when the bike lifted while
shifting into 3rd. I would be interested to know if this helped. DATE: November 7, 1999 The clutch on my bike started slipping, so I bought a new Barnett clutch to replace. Replaced the disks and springs with no problems, and inserted the extra disk and metal ring. I adjusted the clutch per my Haynes manual, but had to pull it in a lot more. When I finally got it adjusted right, and went to let the clutch out, there was a terrible shaking and a loud clattering noise. It worked fine and I drove it this way for a few days hoping that the plates just needed to get broken in. It didn't. I went to a friends house and we took it back out. The disks showed quit a bit of wear on one side, but nothing else wrong. Put the disks back in alternating the worn spots. Much better now, but when it is cold and you go to take off the first time, it is still shaking. This doesn't occur if you take of from over 3000 rpm, only if you take of slow. The clutch isn't slipping, just making a shuddering at low rpm take off. Any ideas? I filled it for the first time with genuine Suzuki 10W40 oil as well. RIDER: Troy Sigwing REPLY: Scott Horner DATE: September 6, 1999 With my GS1100G 1982 model, At approx 90,000 KM's the final drive splines on both the wheel and Final Drive had worn ( mainly the wheel) on a taper from approx 20% from the end of the spline to the inside. This wear was sufficient to make me replace them ( albeit with second hand but in good nick even with tapered wear. These only lasted 6000Kms with the wheel spline being ripped off totally from that 20% point inwards resulting in no drive of course. This has been noticed in almost all of the bikes that I have seen now from 650 to 1100 with some few exceptions. I believe this occurrence is because of the wheel locating too deeply inside the Final Drive Spline which is only spaced by the long spacer inside the drive housing thru which the axle shaft passes. Do you know of any other fix of this apart from trial & error with extra spacers and why this variation occurs in the first place. Great Site and well done to all. Regards Trevor Franklin..... RIDER: Trevor Franklin REPLY: Malcolm Evans DATE: September 6, 1999 I would like to lower the highway cruising RPM on my bike, a GS850G. In the past I owned a GS1000L, and this bike was geared taller and revved less. My question is, can I put a GS1000 differential in my GS850 and get taller gearing or is the difference in the engine as opposed to the final drive?? Thanks. RIDER: Mark Oefinger REPLY: Tom Glidewell, Jr. I have a 79 GS850GN complete with Suzuki shop manual and specs for every GS850 model made ('79-'83) including the L models and it is the source for much of the following: Originally the 850 L models had the same size tires and wheels as the regular "G" models, but beginning with the GLX (1981, I think) they fitted a 16 inch rear wheel (instead if 17") and reduced the number of teeth on the 5th DRIVE gear by one tooth. The gear change raised the gear ratio from .961 to .923, in effect increasing the overdrive almost 4% (to counteract the effect of the smaller rear wheel, I'm sure). The fifth DRIVEN gear was left unchanged. So to recap, originally the drive gear had 25 teeth and the driven gear had 26, but this was changed to 24/26 with the 1981 GS850GLX model and all subsequent 850 L models. Thus, if you made the gear change on your bike, keeping your present rear wheel size unchanged, you would have a 4% reduction in RPM at any speed in 5th gear. However, if you change the the 5th DRIVE gear, you should also change the DRIVEN gear as well, and including Labor charges this is going to get expensive. In addition with only a 4% reduction in RPM, you should question whether you want to split the cases to fix something that isn't really broke! Why not wait till you have to go into the transmission for some other reason? Regarding Final Drives, I can also vouch with reasonable confidence the following information: The Ring and Pinion Gears for the 1980 GS850GT (NOT an "L" model) and the 1980 GS1000GLT (an "L" model) are exactly the same. They have the same part number, so nothing is to be gained by changing final drive gearsets. The '80 model year is the only year I've checked like this but I suspect that all other years for these 2 models would be the same. I do know for sure that the specs for the final drive gears for ALL the 850 models (both Regular and "L" models) are exactly the same. My guess is that all the GS1000Gs and the GS1100Gs all use the same rear end as the 850 but I don't know that for sure. I only know it for the 1980 model year. A dealer can tell you by comparing part numbers on his microfiche/computer. I hope all this helps you in some way. Let me know if I can be of any further help. If you decide to make this gear change, do check everything out with a dealer. By the way, I have gotten really good prices on Suzuki Genuine Parts from Freedom Cycles in Grandview, Mo. 1-800-438-0316. DATE: August 8, 1999 I have scanned and printed the references to clutches and still feel like I need a more specific answer so here goes... I have been told that its would be a good idea to have the clutch basket replaced with a Falicon or similar rebuilt and reinforced unit to avoid a failure. And that if it does fail it may take out the rest of the engine. The bike had been owned by two of the mildest riders in the world, had 16,000 miles on it when I bought a few months ago, and has nearly 20,000 on it now. I don't plan to race it but it will occasionally get wrung out, and it'll spend a bunch of time on long road trips. Also, it is presently an immaculate, original, show room condition bike which I plan to keep in my family forever. Should I replace the clutch basket as a precaution? Any other concerns I should look out for? I should mention, the stator has just failed, during a 24 hour/100o mile rally I was riding in. So the stator and Reg/Rectifier are soon to be replaced with the Electrex USA units. RIDER: Kevin Wynn REPLY: Chris Skanderup DATE: July 31, 1999 I have not had the bike long and just checked the oil in the gear case. I thought there'd be a dipstick, but there's none. How do I know how much gear oil is supposed to be in there?? Thanks RIDER: Donald Gagnon REPLY: Malcolm Evans DATE: April 23, 1999 My Clymer manual says to use Hypoid gear oil in the primary and final drive gears. What is a hypoid gear? Or does it refer to the oil? I found some Castrol Hypoy C SAE 80W-90. Is it the same? Can you advise me please? RIDER: Kenton Brunner REPLY: Ed Parsons DATE: March 28, 1999 My clutch slips in all gears. Is a clutch replacement a job for a do-it-yourselfer? Also, when the bike is cold, the clutch drags, usually killing the bike the first couple of tries into first gear from neutral. I have heard of a kit to remedy this problem. More info please? Second, it seems like either my starter or the solenoid has gone out. How do I tell which and again, is the replacement a job for a do-it-yourselfer. Thank you, Chad. RIDER: Chad Johnson REPLY: Frank Perreault As for the starter, if you hear it click when you hit the
switch the solenoid is fine. If it doesn't click or the
starter doesn't turn over have the battery load tested. DATE: April 23, 1999 Hi there! I'm driving my motorcycle with a lot of fun, but last week my transmission broke down. I can still drive in first, but i can't shift my transmission. Now i have 2 questions: 1) I don't have a manual so is it possible to open my transmission, or will it fall apart completely. 2) What do you think (as the experts) the problem is. I would be most grateful if you could give me some information. Thanks a lot. RIDER: Remco van Zijl REPLY: Zack Schultz DATE: March 26, 1999 I have the option of replacing my clutch plates with OEM plates for approx. $200 (Cdn), or a combo of Barnett steel plates and CK friction plates for $160, or Barnett and KG friction for approx. $185. Some have said that OEM clutches are better. I have particularly heard this with respect to some Yamahas. Any experience/comments/recommendations are appreciated. RIDER: Matthew T. McGarvey REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: March 26, 1999 I recently purchased a GS1100 for 150 dollars, a the fine price for a decent Suzuki. After winding out first second and third gears clicking into fourth the gear just spins. Riding through town moderately there is no problem with the shifting of the tranny in fourth. Could this possibly be a clutch problem or are the dogs shot on fourth gear as I suspect. Thank you very much and I would appreciate any responses that would be helpful. RIDER: Grant Raymond Allen REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: February 9, 1999 I have a 1980 GS 550E that had its (I think) gearshifting fork shaft bent. It also bent the flush-mounted bearing/gasket that allows the shaft to exit the engine case. If anyone has the Clymer manual (M373) for the 550s, its the rod that is just to the lower right of the icon representing the {50} of figure 50 on page 162, anterior to the drive shaft. What I think had happened was: due to a semi-loose and hence wobbly drive sprocket, the chain was stretched abnormally fast, and when it was that loose, whipped around off the sprocket and bent the rod. If that's the case, then I feel like I've done a bit of good sleuthing. Please refute this if I have just created an impossible or unlikely scenario. Back to the point: it needs replacing. Do I need to look out for any other damage to the internals of the clutch and transmission? I've removed the engine and had a look inside and everything appears to be OK. All of the gears engage while I shift and have a friend turn the driveshaft. Also, the shaft slides nearly completely out of the left side when I give it a pull. Is this normal? On a similar tangent, the bike has always had a little trouble getting into neutral from either first or second. I had read an answer to a similar question in the Q&A section of this invaluable site, but the answer seemed a little hollow with respect to my bike. Upon cracking the sprocket cover, I inspected the clutch cable return spring, and it didn't seem to have all the 'pull' needed to get back to its tight position; i.e.- the spring never fully returned to its potentially fully closed position. This might explain things, if the clutch never fully engaged from within the engine (I couldn't adjust it from the hand lever or by the cable screw atop the sprocket case). Last question: I know that the GS 550 series stopped having a kickstarter as of 1980, but I noticed that the internal case still has a slot for one. I'd have to locate a right-side clutch plate with a hole for the lever, but is there a kit to install, cannibalize one from a 1979, or am I just pipe-dreaming? Thanks again for the this truly amazing resource page. If I'm ever in florida... RIDER: Thomas Dalton REPLY: Thomas Dalton My Clymer M373 is for '77 to '80, and your page refs don't jive, but I think the shaft, to which you refer to as being bent, is actually the clutch pushrod. The shift fork shaft only exits the engine during destruction! The pushrod mates on the left end with the plastic screw actuator that sits in the sprocket cover, and the other end of the shaft rides on (via a flat roller- bearing) the clutch pressure plate on the other side of the transmission. This shaft should be straight but the book indicates replacing it is just a matter of pulling it completely out (after removing the clutch pressure plate from the other side) and sliding in another one. I hope you didn't pull the engine and split the cases just to deal with this...I'm worried that you might be able to remove this pushrod from the sprocket side, I've never had to deal with this, so either it's broken in two, or the book is incomplete, or we're not talking about the same part. You shouldn't be able to remove it from the sprocket side. If the shaft is bent, that would account for less than full disengagement of the clutch because it would bind in the bore drilled down the center of the countershaft. But let's think positive... the plastic screw actuator might also be worn from overuse without lube (there is a grease fitting inside the cover) or the actuator itself may be misadjusted (also under the cover...it's just above the shift lever, this is seperate from the cable adj.). Also, check the cable itself for free and unbinding travel, that needs lube sometimes too. I think the spring to which you refer, is only to take the slack out of the actuator. Most of the clutch resistance and return action is from the springs in the clutch itself. I like my '550, but the tranny isn't one of it's finest points. Even with proper clutch adjustment, it clunks N to 1st, crashes 1st to 2nd, and is a pain getting from 1st to N when it's cold. but it's better after warmup, because then the clutch more fully disengages. I actually pull in the clutch and start mine in 1st, and slip the clutch a little before that first 1-2 shift of the day, it seems to reduce the violence a bit. This is the Suzuki clutch...I tried one from Barnett, and it aggrivated the above symptoms by a factor of four! After running it for a month, I switched back to the original, and stuffed the Barnett plates in a box. If you're having shifting problems, possibly the clutch is dragging...i.e. not fully disengaging, as opposed to a slipping (not fully engaging) clutch. You may have no tranny problems at all, just a clutch prob. RE: kickstarter retrofit...I too, have lusted after one. (yeah, go ahead and giggle...but it's less dangerous than Internlust) I think it's possible because the hole is still there, but you'd need the earlier side cover and internal parts, and I suspect Suzuki didn't tap the bolt holes in our model. And installation means splitting the cases (which I hope you haven't done yet). You might consider looking for a 1977 model engine, so you get the kick, and better carbs, and I suspect, better performance, because motorcycle emission controls took effect 1/1/78. Though a '78 or '79 mill would get you a kick also. Also, I thank you for my new command of "anterior",
which complements my familiarity of posterior, interior, and
exterior, as well as "ant cow". The clutch push rod, I've found out, is no longer an orderable part from Suzuki. The old part number was 23100-44100, but it was changed to a new part number, 23100-44101. Regardless, the only way to get another pushrod is from a junkyard. The clutch actuator on the left side still has nice action, so I don't think that's the prob with the 1 and 2 gears getting into N. The pushrod was bent before (I didn't think or know to look for it), and I'm inspecting the clutch all the way, so I could be in luck. I'll post any findings on the site. Too late about the engine removal: I've already cracked the case wide open. I think I may have found a silver lining after all. First, it's a good learning experience; second, the kick starter I've found can be installed (hopefully, those drill holes may present a problem); and third, I need to replace the inner oil seal for that pushrod. It apparently has an inner and outer oil seal, and both are warped. When my problems first began, the push rod banana'ed so much that it ovaled the oil seal(s) and it leaked all over the road. Fortunately, I was at home, going reeeaaallly slow after replacing the chain. It was disheartening: the puddle of oil was like the lifeblood forming around a fallen hero... Time for a resurrection! Thanks again for all the help. DATE: February 9, 1999 I have a 1980 GS850G shaft drive that I have converted to cafe style [ lower bars,4 into 1, K & N filters, GSXR carbs, Metzlers etc] very pleased with results. Have pondered possibility of swapping early 80's GS650G final drive to my bike. Looking for lighter weight mainly, but higher top speed would also be nice. Any help out there? RIDER: David Lauderdale REPLY: Malcolm Evans The 850 top end bolts straight on, you get improved weight and handling, and then of course you can get into a set of GSXR wheels and a Metmachex swingarm.........course you have then got to keep it in chains. DATE: December 5, 1998 RIDER: Henry Dedrick The failure occurred on a very beaten 550 at 31,000 miles...It's been a while, but as I remember it, the bike would downshift N to first, but upshifting usually wouldn't happen, except after many attempts. This is why I got it so cheap... When I pulled the clutch cover and the clutch, I discovered that the "gearshifting fork shaft" (Suzuki nomenclature) had walked out of place and had jammed the shift linkage. It had moved to the right and was limiting the shifter travel in the upshift mode. This shaft is what the shifting forks pivot and ride back and forth on as you shift . One hard downshift on this bike would kick the forks to the left, and (sometimes) move the shaft back to proper position...temporarily. This shaft gets slid in from right to left during transmission assembly, and then they run a panhead screw into the case adjacent to the shaft to retain it. From what I can see in the book, the shift forks slide back-and-forth on the shaft, but there is apparently some side loading and after 200,000 or so shifts, the shaft-end has punched its way through the edge of the screw head. This is like digging through Alcatraz with a teaspoon...it takes so long, it's highly unlikely...but possible. I kept the screw, and it looks like someone laser-cut a little half-moon from the edge of the head. There was no consequential damage (pretty tough shift linkage!). Other parts of the linkage itself prevent the shaft from colliding w/the back of the clutch, it can only travel about an inch, so it doesn't go far enough to liberate the shifter forks. (that would be eventful!) After that, I checked my other 550, which had about 45,000 on it, but certainly far fewer shifts. That screw showed some of the same damage but probably would have lasted years longer. This is a longshot, but worth checking before splitting the cases to cure a trans problem...I don't think the early 550's and 750's share shift linkage, but I suspect this may apply to others in the GS family. Cheers! DATE: November 1, 1998 When I aggressively accelerate in 2nd gear slippage occurs from 3000 to 3500 RPM's and again at 4500 to 5000 RPM's. No matter how aggressive you accelerate in 1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th, no slippage occurs. Removal of engine base shows no signs of metal shavings from gear damage. Also if you slowly accelerate through 2nd this slippage does not occur. Any suggestions on this problem would be greatly appreciated. RIDER: Richard Sceviour REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: November 1, 1998 My bike is an '81 GS650G Shaft Drive (45,000 km), which I bought in June. On getting a friend to check it over he spotted there was no oil in the shaft drive at the wheel end. After filling it with the correct oil all was well - until I went on a long ride, when most of the oil leaked out on my back tire. My friend replaced the seal with a new one. Again all was well until a longish ride when the same thing happened! My friend dis-assembled the rear of the bike and showed it to the local Suzuki dealership, who agreed that the work my friend had done seemed to be done correctly. The bike was once again re-assembled and again seemed fine until a long run when the same problem happened again. Why would a seal give intermittently? Could it be heat/oil viscosity finding a flaw in the seal? Any other ideas? I am taking the bike into the local Suzuki dealership next week for them to take a closer look, but they seem pretty vague as to what is going on in there. Can anyone please help? Wish I could get this sorted - the bike is great otherwise! Very nice web site - congratulations! RIDER: Steve Molinari REPLY: Steve Molinari The problem has been resolved (I believe). As the dealer explained it, the problem seems to have been that at some time in the past a bearing had perhaps been replaced. The plate (which is machined) had not been "sealed" with 3M on re-assembly and the oil was working it's way through when the bike was hot and being worked hard. In any case all now seems well. I guess the moral here is that when anyone tells you that something is "bullet-proof and doesn't need to be checked" - CHECK IT! An early death or serious injury is probably a little too high of a price to pay for some-one else's self-assurance! DATE: September 26, 1998 I'm about to get into the lower end of my engine to replace a worn engagement dog (2nd gear). Are there any other parts which are prone to failure, and should be replaced while I'm in there? I'd like to get maximum reliability for my efforts, and I don't mind spending the extra $$. RIDER: Chris Arocha REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: September 26, 1998 I just bought an GSX 750 with an GSX 1100 engine both from '81. I know this is at first sight not the most save combination but that is something to find out (carefully). But that is not the question. This is: It needs new sprockets and chain but it has some strange size like a 630 type chain. The chain has the same width as a 530 but a longer pitch. Are there other Suzuki sprockets which will fit on a GSX 750 rear and GSX 1100 front but can use a normal 530 chain? The strength should be sufficient because the are also used on modern 1100 CC motorcycles but they tend to be also a lot cheaper. RIDER: Arthur Aalsma REPLY: Scott Horner DATE: August 24, 1998 I've spoken to a veteran Suzuki dealer (30 years in the business) and the chief instructor for the motorcycle mechanic program at British Columbia Institute of Technology and both of them say they've never heard of this happening... I was touring from Vancouver, BC to the Yukon and was on my way back when I started hearing strange noises from where the shaft connects to the engine. All this just out side of Dease Lake, BC (pop 700), 14 hours from the nearest Suzuki shop. After getting it home I opened up the front gear oil reservoir and picked out chunks (not little bits, chunks) of gear with a magnet. Not a good sign. I checked the compression too and the readings were not great. Only 45000 km's on it too =( So, if I can find the parts to replace the broken shaft I'll unbolt everything and do a complete restoration of the bike over the winter (waah! summer's only half over and I have no bike =( ) I'm wondering if anyone out there has any ring job, replacing a fubared shaft or frame up resto tips. PS. If you ever have the opportunity to ride to the Yukon through BC, do it, and make sure you stop in at Liard Hot Springs...they're still natural and big enough to swim in! RIDER: Erik Stenerud REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: August 24, 1998 My 1983 GS550E lost 3rd gear recently. It seemed to slip out of 3rd and into neutral and then 3rd was gone. There was no clunking noise and no unusual noise now. All the other gears work fine. Will I have to rip this apart to fix it? or is it a minor adjustment (ha ha). Also, is this a common problem? I think this is an awesome bike and will probably spend the money to repair it if possible. RIDER: Gary J. Ward REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: August 24, 1998 I bought a 1980 GS550, my mechanic said the bike is in good shape but that the front sprocket might have a bad spot on it, or the chain could have a link that is bound up, when I ride I get a clicking noise from the chain, and when the bike is off and up on its stand the tire will not spin freely, it has a spot that tightens up when I spin the tire. Let me know what you think, and are these jobs fairly easy do. Thank you. RIDER: Randy Giacometti REPLY: Frank Perreault In any case, if it's a problem with a sprocket or the chain,
they all need to be replaced at once. It isn't cheap, but if
you only do one or the other, you'll only damage the new part you
are replacing. DATE: July 20, 1998 I have an '81 GS550 T with a little over 9k miles on it. Recently, I've been noticing a "gravely" sound coming from the transmission in 1st, 2nd, some in 3rd, and very little in 4th on up (of course with wind noise and engine noise, how can one be shure). I've been told that there was some problems with these transmissions, and there are some gears inside that need to be replaced, requireing the motor to be pulled off the bike and split. If there is any truth to this I would greatly appreciate any tips and suggestions. RIDER: Kevin S. Weaver REPLY: Frank Perreault Mine seems to go away if I run the drive chain a bit looser than recommended (around 1.5 inches total up-down slack in mid-lower-run) but it comes back when I adjust it by the book(1 inch), which I have an annoying habit of doing. I think this is the ticket, but I just don't like the thought of my chain whipping like crazy at 75MPH from excessive slack. I've learned to live w/it, now up to 60K, so I wouldn't worry at 9Kmiles. Just don't overdo this advice... check the top side of the left swingarm bearing for evidence of gouging, that's a sign that the chain has been too slack. DATE: June 11, 1998 I have a general question about replacing my clutch. I am a first time bike owner and have been thoroughly enjoying my GS ever since I picked it up last year. It seems as if it wants a new clutch these days. I have tightened the clutch line as far as possible and I am beginning to really force the gears. This is making my ride a little rough at times and I think it is beginning to be a bit rough on the engine block as I force my shifting. Do I only need to change my clutch wire or may this require a new clutch altogether? I am suffering from some mechanical ignorance and I get mostly confused as I stare at the schematics in my manual. I have a printout of your instructions to Michael Keslar on replacing a clutch cable - should I follow the instructions? RIDER: Richard Kouwenhoven REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: May 25, 1998 I am going to replace the transmission, my old one has a chipped tooth on the third gear. Do you know if I can just take the bottom half of the casing off and replace the tranny while the motor is upside down or do I have to tear it down completely from the top? RIDER: Mike Thompson REPLY: Zack Schultz You know, while you have the tranny out, take a look at all
the engagement dogs and general conditions of all the gears. Also
check the shift forks to see if they're straight. As long as it's
apart already, might as well be 100% sure when it goes back in that
everything is perfect. DATE: May 17, 1998 First of all, thank you for this terrific site! I've got an `81 GS1100E with a host of mods, and many more on the way. It is currently in a local shop having mounts put in for the `91 GSXR750 swingarm. I'm also installing a `91 GSXR1100 front end with YZF1000 calipers up front. My question is; has anyone found a front 530 sprocket from another model that fits the GS11? I can modify the offset myself, but I have to have a sprocket to start with! Thanks for your help. RIDER: Gord Mounce REPLY: Scott DATE: April 10, 1998 Want to raise the gearing to get me out of the "buzz" rpm at cruise, will a 16t (stock is 15) primary sprocket fit without running risky chain/case clearance? Will I have to add links to my stock 96 link chain? Any suggestions? RIDER: Bill Abbott REPLY: Zack Schultz As far as adding links, if the rear axle is in
the middle of it's adjustment, probably not. If it's more toward the
front, probably yes. Keep in mind that by moving the axle forward,
you're shortening the wheelbase a little. Not much, but consider
that Honda added a 1/2 degree more rake to the CBR900 this year and
everyone says it's a huge improvement. DATE: February 15, 1998 I have an '82 GS1100E. Since it is winter, I haven't been riding it all that often; I try to run it at least once or twice a month. Lately, the shifter has become REALLY stiff on upshifts. I would appreciate any possible diagnoses/remedies. Thanks so much. RIDER: John E Sullivan REPLY: Zack Schultz DATE: February 15, 1998 Hi, my name is Eric and I appreciate the time all you guys take in working on this web page . Now on to my questions. I have a 1982 GS1100GK I was riding her one day and she started to slip out of gear when under strain. It goes into all gears but will slip out if weight is put on it. My Suzuki dealer said it had to be in the rear end and gave me a list of parts to order. Needless to say it had nothing to do with the the rear end. So after several hundred dollars I it to a local Honda dealer who has had it for over a week and still has no clue as to what the real problem is. If you have any ideas I'd love to entertain them because I really love my machine and don't relish the thought of losing her. RIDER: Eric Bahmer REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: December 17, 1997 I noticed that the clutch cable on my 81
GS1100E was very frayed, so I removed it and ordered a new one.
Several days later while still waiting for the new part, I started
the bike and let it run for a while to warm up, I was going to test
out the shifting and tried to manually move the clutch lever that
comes out of the housing, no way, it wouldn't budge. I reattached
the cable to the lever and tried to pull the cable, no dice. Even
tried tapping on it with a mallet, no dice. RIDER: Troy Sigwing REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: December 5, 1997 So there I was with a floppy clutch lever in my hand and not a clue in my head. It appears that the cable had frayed through to the last wire about an eighth of an inch from the ball at the grip. I would appreciate some help with the installation of the new cable I'm preparing to buy. Thanks. RIDER: Michael Keslar REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: November 8, 1996 I have a UK model 1976 GS1000EC. It's done about 50,000 miles and has been an ace bike. However the clutch rattles around when the bike is idling. It subsides when the clutch is engaged. Now I know this is a common problem so have any of you expert mechanics out there ever done anything about it? I remember in the eighties seeing articles about it and mentioning worn thrust washers behind the clutch basket. Is it really as simple as replacing a washer or manufacturing a thicker than new one? RIDER: Jeremy Robinson, University of Limerick, Ireland REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: October 21, 1996 RIDER: Conrad Price, Belgium REPLY: Peter Huppertz DATE: July 17, 1996 I have a 1981 GS450T with low mileage. I love it, but it has a
couple of problems. First, as several others have reported, I'm
having problems starting the bike if it hasn't been started for more
than about 10 days. Has *anyone* solved this? Second, the clutch
cable seems a bit sticky, and seems to release in small increments.
This is very irritating. I've replaced the cable, and pour oil into
it regularly, but it seems to only help temporarily. RIDER: Richard Kershenbaum REPLY: Jean-Duc Villareal |
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