| Page last modified: 09/03/08 Maintenance Note: Email addresses and links listed in this Q&A section may no longer be valid! DATE: November 7, 1999
QUESTION: Cleaning Mag Wheels - 1981 GS850G I have a 1981 GS850G Bike Is Immaculate, Looks new, But I Can't Get The Wheels Clean. They Always Look Kinda Dull And Spotty? Appreciate Any Suggested Procedures And/Or Products Brian RIDER: Brian Conway REPLY: Frank Perreault
I start with a rag dipped in kerosene and go over the wheel. This cuts through any grease or chain lube that may be on the mags. I then go over it with Simple Green, a hose and a clean rag. Dry it off and throw a quick coat of Armor All on the rubber and a quick pass with Mother's Polish on the rims and and you're all done.
DATE: November 7, 1999
COMMENT: Synthetic Oils - All GS models I keep seeing questions about slipping clutches, and people using synthetic oil. Hopefully not Mobil One. There is a difference between car oil and motorcycle oil mainly because the gearbox, clutch, and engine all share the same oil in most bikes. The newest oil out for cars has a rating of SJ, and if you put this oil in a new bike, the manufacturer will void your warranty. It's too slippery! Bearings tend to slide instead of roll, which can leave flat spots. Not to mention slipping clutches. Honda, Suzuki, etc. make standard oil with a rating of SF/SG. Don't go above G in the alphabet. 20/50 in these older bikes, and 10/40 on the modern stuff. All the oil in Auto Parts stores is for cars. They have a dry clutch, and separate trans oil. Use motorcycle oil, and see if that helps with the slipping clutches. Your main bearings will also thank you for it. RIDER: Rick Patrolia
DATE: October 17, 1999
QUESTION: Initial pilot screw settings needed - 1982 GS650 Katana Does anyone know the correct pilot air screw settings for my 650 Kat. The Suzuki manual only lists them as 'preset'. I need some idea of a starting position so that I can sort out the idle. Also I have an problem that I hope someone may provide some advice on. The bike runs fine apart from a flat spot at around 80mph on a steady throttle when it acts as if it is running out of fuel. It clears up as soon as you open the throttle and accelerates fine. It will hold a steady throttle at 70 and at 90 but not at 80. Cheers Steve South Wales RIDER: Steve Waller REPLY: Peter Oxley
Gday from Australia. Just found the GS Resource site recently whilst looking for like-minded Katana owners. I must say that I am most impressed. Just a quick note, have you thought of adding a technical section to your site listing specs of most popular models, or providing links to sites that do? I ask because I am trying to get working drawings for a GSX750 SZ Katana. Anyways, to business. I hopefully have a few answers to questions for other site users/riders. Question:- Initial pilot screw settings needed - 1982 GS650 Katana Answer :- I have info. on a few types of Mikuni carbs. as follows Carb Type I.D. No. Turns Back
BS32SS 45410 3 1/2
BS34SS 45500 1 5/8 ( these are the one for my Katana )
BS34SS 45550 & 45540 1 5/8 Hope that this helps
DATE: September 18, 1999
QUESTION: Chain lubrication intervals - 1985 GS700ES I have just bought this bike and absolutely love it. I ride to work on good weather days, about 14 mi. roundtrip. Any suggestions on what to use and how often to lube the chain? Thanks! RIDER: Hugh Hall REPLY: Paul Holman
It's been quite a while since I've ridden a chain drive bike but that won't stop me from giving a little advise!! *L* My favorite chain lube was PJ1 Blue label. Spray a good coat on and let it set for a while. After it's on there for a while it sets up and tends not to fly off. Try not to get it on anything but the chain because it's not the easiest stuff to get off. It's probably harder to get it off of your hands than the bike! It will come off though. Some say to lube chain when it's hot so that it will penetrate better. I don't know whether that's true or not. As far as how often just try to keep an eye on it and don't let the chain get dry. Hope this helps!
REPLY: Frank Perreault
I use PJ1 also and it's good stuff. If you happen to get it on parts that you didn't want, you can try kerosene on a rag to clean it off. It works great for me. I lightly lube the chain when it starts getting noisy or looks dry. Just remember that you don't need to go crazy with this stuff. The chains are internally lubed so you're just trying to lightly coat the outside to reduce friction with gears and quiet things down a bit.
DATE: September 18, 1999
QUESTION: Fork oil level - 1985 GS700E I need to know how much oil I must use to fill front shock absorbers on my GS700E. In Europe is not easy to get information about this bike and I don't have any manual. Thanks. RIDER: Jan Simecek REPLY: Sandra Whitney
Front fork oil capacity on the GS700E and ES is 303 ml per leg. Suzuki also says that the fork oil level from the top of the fork tube should be 177 mm with the fork tube compressed and without the fork spring installed. On the 750E and ES the capacity is 308 ml and 170 mm respectively.
DATE: September 6, 1999
QUESTION: Rust on Pipes - 1982 GS450E I know I'm going to get a lot of responses to this...but, what is the best way to remove rust from the chrome pipes? I have been semi-successful with just a steel brush. I will try steel wool next. I have heard rumors of the effectiveness of "Mothers" and have had warnings about "Navel Jelly"? There is evidence of some battery acid that has leaked on the pipes from the overflow tube on the battery, that has rusted on the pipe. Suggestions!!! RIDER: Daniel Downey REPLY: Frank Perreault
If the battery acid ate through the chrome there is nothing you can do to shine it. For polishing good chrome, Semichrome Polish or Mother's should do the trick. If it doesn't, you've eaten through the chrome coating and there isn't too much you can do about it. You should never use a steel brush on chrome, that is unless you want it to look scratched. The same goes with steel wool unless it's the non-soaped, extra fine variety and you go real lightly.
DATE: September 6, 1999
QUESTION: Lubing clutch cable - 1980 GS850G I bought the bike used, and the previous owner had replaced the clutch cable recently. The clutch is really stiff, and my left hand is cramping up trying to use it for in town driving. I want to try to lube the cable, but I'm not sure how to do it. On my bicycle, I'd just squirt some three-in-one oil down the cable run to keep the brake and derailleur cables moving freely - can I do the same thing with a motorcycle? If not, what can I do, short of taking it to a dealer for a $200 "looksie"? RIDER: Jon Fincher REPLY: Frank Perreault
You can try the same method on your motorcycle cable as your bicycle. Due to the length of the cable it could be a little tough. They sell cable oilers to help get the job done and they aren't that expensive.
DATE: September 6, 1999
QUESTION: How to remove remove blue from the pipes - 1982 GS1100E I have a superclean 82 gs1100e. with everyone's input, I went with a v&h header. I've run the bike in warm weather and the pipe looked fine even though it was running way lean. Saturday, it was in the 50's, I started it to load it onto my truck and the header turned dark blue. how do I get the blue off the brand new header? the bike's on a dyno right now so I'm sure it'll be bluer before I get it back. RIDER: Michael Hughes REPLY: Frank Perreault
I've used both Semichrome Polish and Mother's Polish to remove bluing. Just remember, the bluer it is, the tougher it is to remove.
REPLY: Neal Von Almen
I successfully used a product called Blue Job that I obtained on the net @ www.gokart.net/shop-utopia/bluejob/. It is a concentrated, natural organic, non-caustic powdered product that is extremely economical to use. It does require some elbow grease like all of the other products. I was pleased with the results that I obtained Good Luck!
REPLY: Leigh Corn
Boy, do you Yanks like to spend money! ;) Joking aside, have you tried vinegar? I recommend the cheap distilled vinegar. Don't use wine vinegar - it stinks!
DATE: September 6, 1999
QUESTION: Oil Filter Plate - 1981 GS1000G Well, I am in a real quandary now!! I was doing an oil and filter change on my 1981 Suzuki GS1000G bike. I had no problem unplugging the oil filter, but after emptying the oil and removing and replacing the filter, I noticed that the plate was not tightening properly. One of the nuts (there are three) was not tightening properly and I have what appears to be a stripped bolt. I can't even remove the little nut from the bolt - thus the plate, though not tight, can't be removed. Of course, I am leaking oil all over my garage... so I can't drive my bike anywhere to get it fixed. Have I just scrapped my 1981 Suzuki? Is there a fix beyond replacing the whole bottom half of the block?? Please, can't it be something simple? Anyone know of a fix for this problem? Can't spend big bucks on this fix. Thanks Peter RIDER: Peter Bruneau REPLY: Bill Patten
Sorry to hear of your dilemma. What you have is a stripped stud. first remove the nut with a vise grip, hacksaw, Dremel tool or whatever works best for you. once you have the oil filter cover off grab the stud with ViseGrips and slowly turn it out. Be careful at this point you don't want to break it. if you can't get it out or can' t get a replacement from Suzuki another way is to cut it off flush then drill and tap a hole and use a bolt to secure the filter cover. Verify the size so you use the same size fastener as the original. Good luck
REPLY: Sandra Whitney
Usually when the oil filter cover nuts will not tighten, I have found that the nuts are stripped and not the studs. I would first start by clamping vice grips on the nut and sticking a flat blade screwdriver behind the nut (prying the nut away from the cover). See if you can work the nut loose that way. If this doesn't work, get a Dremel and cut the nut lengthwise and remove it from the stud. You will end up having to replace the nut anyway (and probably the stud, too), so don't be afraid to damage either. The one thing you really don't want to do is break the stud. Both the studs and nuts are common thread pitch and size and should be readily available from your dealer. Last time I replaced the nuts, I used locking flange nuts (metal locking tab built into the nut) and eliminated the lock washers. You don't need to torque the nuts down tight, since you are relying on the o-ring to seal the cover. Too tight and you flatten the o-ring.
REPLY: Joe Brennan
1. Don't try to take the stud out!! Don't do it!
2. Get the offending nut off-grab it with pliers and pull and turn and it'll come off.
3. Throw away all the nuts, Sandra is right-the nut/s are stripped.
4. Get new nuts, regular nuts, not the acorn nuts that came on the bike.
5. Put the filter and plate on
6. This should solve the problem. If not: a. If the stud is stripped-unlikely but possible-then counterboring the cover/plate 1/8'' or so will allow a nut to thread on the stud-the stud is threaded all the way and the plate is over 1/4' thick at the stud holes so counterboring the plate will get you access to more threaded stud. b. If the stud is stripped to the point where a. doesn't work-unlikely but possible-bring the bike to an automotive machine shop and have them remove and replace the stud. I think that the acorn nuts were a mistake in design, that they bottom out on the stud and cause the stripped nut problem.
DATE: August 21, 1999
QUESTION: Painting the engine - 1977 GS750 I am wanting to modify my motorcycle by painting the engine black like the Wes Cooley in the pic of the month. I was wondering if it would affect the heat transfer on my bike? Will the paint act as an insulator and thus make it run too hot? RIDER: Rick Wessley REPLY: Joe Lanfrankie
The black paint (especially flat or semi-gloss) will radiate much more heat than the stock raw aluminum, so the engine should run cooler.
DATE: August 21, 1999
QUESTION: Paint job quantities - 1983 GS100GK With interest I read the article on "Motorcycle Repaint Project". I am hoping to have my bike painted over the winter months (I live in Pouch Cove, Newfoundland, CANADA) and was wondering if anyone out there can advise me of the amount of paint, etc. that would be needed to complete this project. My bike has full fairing, including saddle bags and trunk. Excellent site, I have found some very interesting information concerning my bike. Keep up the good work. RIDER: Heather Crocker REPLY: Frank Perreault
If I remember right I think I used 2 cans of primer, 2 cans of blue and 3 cans of clear on my 1100 and that was with no bags. For what you have I'd double it, at least. Just remember you don't want to run out when you're doing this. The paint and the clear need to go on within an hour or so of one another. Remember, you can always buy extra paint and return the cans that you don't use.
DATE: July 31, 1999
QUESTION: Why lower setting when syncing carbs? - 1982 GS1100G I have a question about syncing the carbs on my '82 GS1100G. I'm using a cheap mercury manometer. On other 4-cylinder bikes I've owned, the procedure was to adjust until all 4 carbs were pulling the same amount of mercury. In my factory manual, the procedure (which uses the Suzuki carb sync tool) calls for setting the inner two carbs to a lower vacuum reading than the outer two. Is this procedure just for the Suzuki tool or should I be following it with my cheapo tool as well? If so, does anyone know why carbs 2 and 3 need the lower vacuum setting? Thanks, as always, for the help. This is an incredibly valuable website. RIDER: Steve Mustoe REPLY: Bill Patten
The intake length is longer on 1 and 4 that's why the higher settings. So much for theory. In reality I've set the carbs using CarbSticks both ways and couldn't tell a bit of difference.
REPLY: WildBill
I had this same question years ago when I first bought my 1100ez. Got varied answers from my dealers techs, mostly speculations. I talked to a Suzuki rep that seemed pretty savvy at a road race last year. He said it was the stock exhaust system routing, 1 and 4 having a straighter path to the mufflers. He advised that if using a 4 into 1 pipe balance the carbs all the same. Throttle response in theory is better with stock exhaust if the carb sync is staggered. Your mercury sticks are more accurate than the small air balls on the Suzuki tool. The half ball variance on the Suzuki tool is equal to about one line if you have the narrow lines or 3/4 of a line on the wide brands, about 5/8" anyway. Valve adjustment can really effect the vacuum readings so do that first. I throw the carb tuners on every 2 or 3k and when they get out of whack it usually means a few valves have loosened up a bit, adjust the tappets and damn, the carbs are in sync again.
DATE: July 6, 1999
QUESTION: How to pull out engine with one person? - 1980 GS850G Her is a new question. How do I pull the engine out of the frame without damaging both. I'm alone to work on the bike so a one man solution would be the best. The bike was at rest for at least 10 years and has only 15.000 Km on it. I have all the side covers of and cleaned the crankcase with brake-cleaner to get all the mud out of it, same for primary and secondary drive. I want to plastify the frame, Replace points ignition by a Dyna 2000 with Dyna coils and switch to the Electrex RR/Stator units. BUT when I bought the bike it did not run and I didn't want to start it after such a long sleep without tearing it apart and rebuilding it first. The previous owner told me that the bike was running well before he sat it in the garage for this long period. He was 50 when he stopped using the bike. I tested the kicker and the engine was turning over easily. Checked compression cold by kicking the kicker and have 120 PSI on all 4 cylinders. What kind of surprises can await me and should I do all these investments now? What should I care for especially while rebuilding the bike. RIDER: Daniel Esser REPLY: Bill Patten
You can get the engine out by yourself but its not fun, I know, I've done it. That thing weighs at least 300 lbs. it sounds like the engine is in decent shape are you sure it needs to come out? Maybe you can get by with doing the top end in the bike. Make sure the engine runs before buying any parts.
REPLY: Frank Perreault
I've stripped the bike down to nothing, laid it on the side, removed all the bolts attaching it to the frame and lifted the frame right off. Other than that, you'll need a bunch of strong friends and a case of beer. And they only get the beer after they get it out of the frame. ;-)
DATE: June 29, 1999
QUESTION: Storage questions - 1981 GS750E I have to store my bike outside this summer. Any suggestions on keeping it from getting trashed? I keep it covered w/a tarp when I'm not riding it. I'm planning on storing it inside during the winter, although it probably won't be heated. Any suggestions on that will also be appreciated. Thanks for all the advice, and this site has tons of great tips and info. Keep up the good work--we appreciate it! RIDER: Kris Rugland REPLY: Frank Perreault
Keeping the sun off of the bike will go a long way to making things like the seat, rubber and plastic pieces last a lot longer. As for prepping a bike for storage the typical steps are usually change the oil and filter, drain all the gas out, clean and lube anything you can get you hands on, remove the battery and put it on a trickle charger and lift the bike so it isn't sitting on the tires. It's also a good time to replace tires if they need it.
DATE: June 18, 1999
QUESTION: What size fuses are on a GS82 GS650LZ? I have two 1982 GS650GLZ (shaft) bikes. One runs, the other is a parts bike. Neither one gives any indication of what size fuses go where. Neither does the Clymer manual. Does anyone know? RIDER: Martin Sanderse REPLY: Rick Greulich
The Clymer's does give the fuse sizes in their color wiring diagram section in the back of the manual. I checked the Clymer figures with what is actually in my 82 GS650 GLZ, and they jibe. Here they are:
Sitting on the bike, facing forward, reading the fuse box from left to right:
10 AMP (Power Source), 15 AMP (Main), 10 AMP (Ignition), 10 AMP (Signal), 10 AMP (Headlights).
DATE: June 18, 1999
QUESTION: Spark plug gap and tank capacity info needed - 1983 GS650G Just got the bike and just found your web site. Great! Anyone know the proper Spark Plug Gap and fuel tank capacity for my 1983 GS650G? How 'bout expected mileage? RIDER: David Baldwin REPLY: Rick Greulich
Clymer's recommends the following spark plug gap: 0.6-0.7 mm (0.024-0.028 in.).
Recommended spark plugs are: NGK D8EA or ND X24ES-U.
Fuel Tank Capacities: "L" Models: 12 liters or 3.2 gallons
All others: 16 liters or 4.2 gallons
DATE: April 23, 1999
QUESTION: My seat and what about polishing? I would like to know who made your back rest in the photo posted to the GS resources site. It looks very tidy. Also do you know of any special method of polishing the engine casing so that it resists corrosion. RIDER: Dan Wretham REPLY: Frank Perreault
I don't remember who made the backrest for my bike. I searched through my paperwork and couldn't find any info on it. The reason I went with that unit is that it was compact, made like a brick you-know-what - out of aircraft grade aluminum and it fastens to the bike via a unique key locking mechanism and a special rail. I like it because when I pull it off the bike, you barely notice anything on the bike. As for polishing the cases once the plastic covering comes off you pretty much are stuck polishing it forever. I find that Mother's Mag Polish or Semichrome Polish stands up the best but if you ride in the rain, you need to keep up with it.
DATE: April 22,1999
QUESTION: Engine Spray - 1983 gs1000 I have powdercoated my frame, sprayed the engine and accessories to end up with a beautiful product. Only to be disappointed after about 100 km's worth with an engine that looks horrific due to lift in the spray-painting. Now the question is, how do I prepare the engine for spray-painting, without dismantling the whole thing. I have overhauled the engine properly and don't want to fool around where nothing is wrong!! RIDER: J.J. ROUX REPLY: Frank Perreault
I would take the engine out of the frame, seal up all the openings to the engine (don't forget the starter), and have the engine sandblasted. That would remove all the old paint and give you a good surface for the new paint to stick to. Then spray will a high quality engine paint and that should do it.
DATE: March 28, 1999
QUESTION: Plastic repair and tank rust - 1979 GS1000 My otherwise perfect plastic side covers have the attachment prongs broken off. Is there some kind of glue I can use to reattach the prongs that would hold up under normal driving conditions? Also, the gas tank has some surface rust on the inside of the tank. Is there a way to remove it, and is it a real problem if it doesn't leak? I'd be grateful for any information. TIA RIDER: Jeff Bradburn REPLY: Frank Perreault
For fixing the tabs you might want to try one of those 2 part epoxies. You need something strong and that should do it. Take a look in the Fuel/Exhaust section for info on tank rust.
REPLY: Tom Minton
I have a 81 GS560E and I had the same problems you described (plus some). The plastic panels I had have been glued repeatedly with no good results. The plastic was too brittle and would just break in a different place. I ended up buying new ones from Suzuki ($50 apiece!!) but there is a link on this page that had them for $35 apiece, but you have to place a minimum $100 order (www.cycle-parts.com). As for the rust, I repainted my bike about a year ago, and got some water in the tank and caused quite a bit of rust. I bought some stuff called Kreem (about $30) and did it myself with little difficulty. You can also have it done for around $100. It's well worth it to Kreem because almost every time I have had to tear into my bike has been because of dirty or clogged carbs from the rust. Anyway, good luck.
REPLY: Colin Ford
I am in the middle of repainting my GS650 GL. Lucky me it has Chrome mudguards so all I need to paint are the "ears" ie the plastic side panels, and the tank. Alas one of the "ears" was badly cracked and broken. What to do? I was told by the dealer that a new one would cost at least $80. Try and find a used one? no luck. Last option, repair the one I have. This I did by cutting pieces from a used plastic container, margarine I think, to cover the missing areas, and as a backing for the very bad cracks. I glued it to the "ear" with Goo, but any good plastic adhesive would do. ( I am not a fan of crazy glue, try a good contact cement or even epoxy cement). Having let it dry thoroughly for a couple of days, I then got some body putty. I used this because it has a bit of flexibility, though not too much, and the thickness wasn't too much. The trick here is to apply the putty in thin layers, lots of them! and allow it time to dry between lavers. The plastic I used was about a 1/32 thick and the "ear" about 3/64s thick. Any thicker will not work too well and one would need to use Bondo. All the other points made in Frank Perreault's Excellent Article "Motorcycle Repaint Project" applies. When preparing the plastic to take the glue for the patch, and for the body putty and/or bondo, it needs a good base to adhere to, so a fairly rough sandpaper , say a 100 grit, could be used for the area where the bonding will take place. My bike had two different GS650L motifs on the "ears". One was fixed with a flattened pin through the plastic, the other, the one I rebuilt, was fixed on with two longer pins through the plastic held on by two clips. This made removal and replacement very easy. If I have to do the other side, I would have to replace the motif with a proper tape from a body shop. Most local body shops would stick it on for you for the good will it brings them, or for a very small fee.
DATE: March 22, 1999
QUESTION: Painting Chrome Fenders - 1982 GS750T I'm getting ready to paint the bike and thought that I'd strip the chrome off the fenders and paint them tank color. Will the paint stripper mentioned in the Repaint Project handle the job? Or is this an exercise in futility? Thanks again for the help. RIDER: Jerry Doolittle REPLY: Frank Perreault
You'll have to sand the chrome with 800 grit so the paint will stick, prime them and then paint them. Of course this means that once you sand them you can't go back to chrome. Stripper won't take of chrome.
REPLY: Jerry Doolittle
I ended up taking the easy way out. I heard that a local monument company would sand blast fenders for a reasonable price. They came out great! Also gave me time to do chores for the boss! :-)
DATE: February 9, 1999
QUESTION: Sand the topcoat? - 1981 GSX750 I was inspired by your article on painting to try and repaint the tank on my bike. I did everything you said up to the point of spraying on the clearcoat. I wanted to put pinstripes on and then clearcoat the whole thing. My question is should I lightly sand my nice new topcoat first or go straight on with the clear? Any advice you could give would be appreciated. Since finding your site I spend a lot of time there. What a great place to visit, many thanks. RIDER: Philip Chandler REPLY: Frank Perreault
You shouldn't sand the topcoat since any imperfection in it will stand out right through the clearcoat. If I remember right the clearcoat should have gone on shortly after the topcoat. Hopefully this delay won't cause problems for you. As for the pinstripes, see the article below this one.
REPLY: Philip Chandler
Hi Frank, thank you very much for the advice, it was really useful and my tank turned out really good ! Once again thanks for an excellent site and all your good work
DATE: February 9, 1999
QUESTION: Paint 1980 GS1100X I am thinking of painting my bike. The old paint is still in good shape and I have no body work to be performed. I would just like to change the color from the original. How should I prepare the surface and remove the old pinstripes which are on the outside of the finish with out damaging it. I have just come across your site a few days ago I think its great! Scott RIDER: Scott Henderson REPLY: Frank Perreault
WD-40 and a plastic scraper should remove the pinstripes without damaging the paint. Take your time and go slow. To prepare for paint go over the tank with 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Dull up everywhere you plan on painting. Go over the all the areas with something similar to Prep-Sol to remove any wax or oil that may still be around. Blow off the dust with an air hose and you should be all set for paint. See our Repaint project pages to see how to do this completely.
DATE: February 9, 1999
QUESTION: Slick 50? - 1983 GSX1100EZ Is it good to use Slick 50 on my GSX1100EZ? RIDER: Dominik Robnik REPLY: Malcolm Evans
NO!!!!! DON'T PUT THAT STUFF IN ANY BIKE!!!!!
REPLY: Zack Schultz
Opinion time. No. There is some dispute currently whether Slick 50 (and it's imitators) does anything. Leaving that aside, it claims to bond to the metals and other internal parts to reduce friction. Fine in a car or HD or something with a dry clutch. You have a clutch riding in engine oil. You probably wouldn't want any reduction in friction there.
DATE: January 26, 1999
QUESTION: Tank painting and pinstriping - 1980 GS1100L I have a 1980 GS 1100 L with 18000 miles. The last time my bike was registered was when I was in college in 1992. I really want to get the bike up and running and am fortunate to find your web site. The bike is in near show room condition with the exception of the Tank. The paint is cracking around the gas cap. I am considering painting the tank myself after reading your article except for the pinstripe. The bike is black with a gold pinstripe around the outside edge of both sides of the tank. My first question; Is pinstriping too difficult for an amateur? And also, when do you put the pinstripe on....after you paint and before the clear coat or after the clear coat? RIDER: Howard Ball REPLY: Frank Perreault
If you are applying the stick-on pinstriping it isn't hard. All it takes is a steady hand. It can get tricky though if you need to do tight turns because the tape will want to crinkle. It comes it all sorts of colors and widths. Check any automotive paint supply place for these. If you plan on painting pinstripes, I would say that because you are asking me, then it's hard. As for over the pinstripe going over the clearcoat or under, I would have to pick over. If you place it under the clearcoat you are looking for trouble. That is because the clearcoat over the pinstripe tape will have a different rate of expansion in the sun then the paint/clearcoat surface will. This could case cracking of the clearcoat. In fact, my tank had cracking everywhere the factory covered over the decals with clearcoat.
DATE: January 3, 1999
QUESTION: Plasti-Kote paint sucks? Hi. In regard to your article on painting with Plasti-Kote. About a year ago I painted my old GS 1100 with Plasti-kote, I spent maybe sixty hours with meticulous preparation, two coats of primer five coats of paint four coats of clearcoat & pinstripes under the clear coat. Finally the day came to fill up the old beast with gas, and as I did a little spilled onto the tank and it trashed the clearcoat like paint stripper, I do have a compressor and a gun and next time I'll do a lot of research before I buy paint products and they won't be Plasti-Kote products. I also think Plasti-Kote should be ashamed of themselves. RIDER: Nick Gaffney REPLY: Frank Perreault
I'm not sure what type of Plasti-Kote paint you used, but I have had no problems with gasoline damaging the acrylic lacquer that I used. It sounds like you spilled gas on the paint before giving it sufficient time to cure. Typical cure time is 30 to 60 days if you can't bake it. My guess is the gas that was spilled was done during that curing period.
DATE: December 5, 1998
QUESTION: Paint colors - 11980 GS1000S Does anyone out there know of any internationally-recognized code that I can identify the Blue and White colours of my 1980 GS1000S? I've access to spray equipment but I'm having problems in identifying the correct mix for the paint. RIDER: David Rogers REPLY: Frank Perreault
Not that I know of. They are unique Suzuki colors but they can be matched. Take a paint chip sample or a bike part to any automotive paint supply store and they can match it up.
DATE: November 1, 1998
QUESTION: Tachometer question - 1981 GS850G After following the fuel gauge test according to the Clymer repair manual, I have ended up removing the tachometer instrument also housing the fuel gauge meter. Now I can't get any further, since the frame around the glass of the instrument seems to be permanently pressed into place. Is it possible to replace the fuel gauge unit at all, or do I have to replace the entire tachometer instrument? I also have a loose speedometer scale since the two screws holding it have rewound themselves. Partly the same problem here, how the .... do I dismount the glass in order to be able to remount the screws? Any help would be very much appreciated. RIDER: Kjell Allzén REPLY: Joe Amidon
I had a similar problem. The tach or the speedometer was screwed up after I dropped the bike. I could see the problem inside, but I couldn't reach it. What I did was to saw the plastic cylinder container off with a hack saw carefully so as not to damage the insides, fixed the innards, and then used epoxy to put the thing together again. Worked fine!
DATE: November 1, 1998
QUESTION: Another low power - 1978 GS750G I have a 78 750G that is not a happy camper. It idles well, and revs up to around 5000 RPM's with reasonable power, at which point the engine stops pulling. Like there is a wall. I have checked the petcock, filter, and float levels (twice). I even went back and moved the floats beyond the spec, but it made no difference. Any thoughts? Could this be an advance problem? RIDER: Tobias Sheppard Bloch REPLY: Chris Hunter
Valve Adjustment time. Is this shim type valves? May also be the air filter is _really_ clogged.
REPLY: Zack Schultz
Sounds like advance to me.
REPLY: Joe Amidon
I had a similar problem and, yes, it was a vacuum leak. I read about guys checking this out by spraying carb cleaner or WD 40 on the manifolds to check for leaks, but don't find this very suitable. It's pretty hard to adequately wet the entire surface area of all the manifolds. I didn't learn much by trying that. However, I found that the hose clamps that tighten the rubber manifold end to the carburetors were tightened to the maximum and still not tight enough. I put shims under them and it fixed the problem. My GS850 has rubber O rings to seal the intake manifolds to the head and these can be a vacuum leak source as well. Good luck.
REPLY: Frank Perreault
One more thing about those rubber manifolds - they are supposed to be soft and pliable. Because they connect to a hot engine, the rubber tends to dry out and be less pliable after a while. This can lead to an air leak. If they don't feel soft and flexible it might be time to replace them. You shouldn't have to shim them.
DATE: November 1, 1998
QUESTION: Speedo, handling questions - 1982 GS850G I've got a GS850G and , apart from it needing a dammed good service (when I get paid etc etc)I ride it every day, any weather. I have, however, two problems 1) The speedo is useless. It sticks at 65 mph no matter what speed I'm doing. Any suggestions?. Or do the internals just need a good spray of penetrating oil to lube them up? 2) The bike handles like a cow at low speed. It follows all the ruts in the road (British roads are specially designed to be crap...It adds to the fun) and has a bit of a weave. Above 4000rpm (around 50mph?) it's OK. Finally, anyone got an old manual they may want to swap or sell? RIDER: Steven Reynolds REPLY: Frank Perreault
I doubt that penetration oil would do it. I believe that the speedo works based on friction and oil will definitely change that. If you're desperate you could try it but then it may end up not working at all. As for getting a better ride, new shocks in the rear and new springs in the forks will help that. Finally, try placing an ad in out Wanted section or look in our Links page for sources of manuals.
DATE: November 1, 1998
QUESTION: Low power at high RPM's - 1985 GS700S I have an 85 GS700ES with about 50K miles on her. She runs STRONG below 5500 RPM's. but on hard acceleration after 5500 she bogs down, especially at 6000 RPM's. It was doing this earlier this spring but I had the battery replaced and a tune-up done and she's been fine for most of the summer. I don't notice any smoke at any time, in fact, my mechanic said that the engine is in great shape and should have another 45K miles left on her. Does anyone have any suggestions? Please let me know. RIDER: Troy Hilton REPLY: Billy Ricks
Could be one of several things. Weak valve springs, defective coils, worn cams or rocker arms, fuel level too low in float bowls. A good place to start fixing would be to disassemble and clean the carbs with a spray cleaner. If you know how to measure coil resistance that's an easy problem to diagnose or eliminate. There are measurements you can make on just about any of the possible culprits. A good manual will steer you in the right direction. I have the Suzuki shop manual for the 83 GS750E that I can provide you copies from for the areas you need help with.
REPLY: Scott Horner
If you know your charging system is fine (battery, reg/rec, stator), and your carbs are in good shape, you may need to take a look at your ignitor (black box,CDI), or coils. I have found both of these components to cause these symptoms. Good Luck!
DATE: October 4, 1998
QUESTION: Speedo doesn't work correctly - 1982 GS750EX I recently purchased a 82 GS750EX this is my first bike and I have a question about the speedometer. To get the bike to fit into the van that was being used to pick it up we had to remove the front wheel. I put the wheel back on and everything seems fine except the speedometer seems to be out. The speedometer seems to be reading low what could I have done to cause this problem and how do I fix it. Thanks for any help you can give me. P.S. Great site RIDER: Pat Collins REPLY: Frank Perreault
Sounds like the cable isn't plugged correctly into the square drive hole in the speedo. Unscrew the connection to the speedo and make sure that the cable is plugged into the square hole correctly.
DATE: October 4, 1998
QUESTION: Running bad - 1981 GS850G I just got an 81 GS850G that had been sitting for four years but in great shape. I rebuilt the carbs and changed the gas and it rode great for a few days, then it started losing power and would cut back in sometimes. I inspected wiring and found burnt wires at connectors, replaced those but didn't solve the problem. I was going to sync the carbs when I saw one of the coils was cracked slightly. Do you think the coils are the problem? RIDER: Dave Bader REPLY: Frank Perreault
Not knowing what connectors were burnt, I can't help you there. If they were connectors going to the regulator or stator then see our Troubleshooting guide in the Stator Papers section. And yes, the coil shouldn't be cracked. You'll need to check them with a multimeter to see if they are in fact, bad.
DATE: September 26, 1998
QUESTION: Rebuild questions - 1980 GS1100E I'm in process of rebuilding from ground up. I've come across a problem with the clutch primary driven gear housing. While inspecting this housing I notice there were two (out of six) springs that were broke. First question is: How could this have occurred? Is it due to heat? Stress? Both? Second: Is there anyway of replacing all of the springs? I have been told by some folks "NO." That I had to purchase the complete housing ($150-$180). I would prefer to purchase these springs, but I can't seem to find anyone to sell them. Suggestions? One more item. Does anyone know where I can find a DETAILED parts breakdown for the front master cylinder. I purchased a kit to rebuild it and still can't seem to stop the leak. It is now worse. I'm sure that I may have installed something improperly. I'd rather not guess anymore! Help! RIDER: Stan Fesniak REPLY: Frank Perreault
Clutch springs breaking isn't normal but hey, it's 18 years old. If you can't order them from Suzuki separately then your only alternatives are a boneyard or better yet get a new clutch. If you buy a Barnett clutch you get the new clutch plates and new springs and it'll cost as much as the complete housing would. That makes better sense to me. Just make sure that everything with the current housing is OK before going that route. As for assembly instructions for the master cylinder, you'll need a Suzuki service manual for your bike. That information isn't in the Clymer book. Let me know if you need further information.
DATE: September 26, 1998
QUESTION: How to check oil correctly - 1981 GS850L I have a 1981 GS 850 L and I was wondering, (its probably obvious) is the oil level suppose to be checked running or off, in the sight glass ? The level changes drastically when running! I have a Clymer's manual and it is referenced nowhere. Thanks in advance! RIDER: Randall Olshove REPLY: Frank Perreault
The engine should not be running and the bike should be balanced level on both wheels. It should not be on either the side stand or the center stand.
DATE: September 26, 1998
QUESTION: Running bad - 1985 GS700E I recently bought a 1985 GS 700E, and took it out for it's first ride this morning. On the way, I noticed a number of things that I wish to fix. Here comes the list. 1: The mixture is too rich. When stopped and idling, there is a noticeable gasoline smell coming out the tailpipes. Where would I find the mixture adjustment screw on this bike? 2: The engine will not start unless you give it quite a bit of gas (even if it has only been switched off for 3 minutes). Is this due to the mixture being off, or is it indicative of another problem? 3: The engine temperature never rises above 165 F. Is this normal for this engine, or am I experiencing cooling from the rich mixture? Or, am I just dealing with an inaccurate gauge? (FYI, I live in Austin, TX, so if the engine naturally runs cool, I won't complain.) As always, any and all help would be appreciated. Me, I'm looking forward to the ride home from work. RIDER: Fred Scott REPLY: Zack Schultz
Quite a list. 1. Does it idle smooth or rough? If smooth, I'd say the idle mixture is about right. Since you asked, the idle screws are to the rear of the carb bodies, but under EPA mandated plugs. However, if the previous owner had installed a jet kit (legal for off road only use :-)) the plugs would have been drilled and discarded. If a jet kit wasn't installed, it still sounds as if the jetting has been modified using the stock needles and different jets. If a jet kit was installed, try lowering the needles a little. 2. Probably mixture. Or dirty pilot jet. 3. Since this is an air cooled engine, I'm guessing you're reading oil temperature. With the oil cooler, this sounds about normal - until those 100 degree days start coming.
DATE: September 26, 1998
QUESTION: Won't start - 1982 GS750EZ My bike is a GS750EZ 1982 with the BS type carbs I have completely redone the motor now in the last month the problem is now that it's done it will not start. it started before I redid everything it almost catches in prime with choke full on, but not in normal at all. Was thinking it might be timing everything for that is good though adjusted cams and everything properly I think since it cannot be adjusted with ignition timing it must be carbs please guys if you have any Idea what it might be it would be appreciated really want to get this girl on the road. RIDER: Wes Ferguson REPLY: Chris Hunter
Clean the pilot jets in the carbs. They are tiny suckers and clog very easily.
REPLY: Zack Schultz
Well, now here's a whole list of things that could be wrong... I'll start with some questions. Did you redo the carbs when you did the engine? Are the clean (no varnish)? Is the battery fresh or at least holding a full charge? Sometimes, the battery will have enough amps to spin the starter or fire the engine, but not both. Does the engine pop as you let off the start button. That would then be an indication. This is easy to do, but did you miswire the sparkplugs? Is the cam timing 'properly' set? Verify this so you are sure that the valves are opening at the proper time. Cam chain tensioner ok? Gas fresh? Is the gas getting into the carbs? Crack the float bowl drawing to see. If none of these rings a bell, try this. Take a can of starting fluid and give a 1 second spritz INTO the air cleaner - not the carbs themselves. See if it'll start now.
REPLY: Wes Ferguson
Hi Frank well finally got it running ...had to use starting fluid on it but started right up with it runs good too also found the boots were a little worse for wear had some hairline cracks in 1 & 3 that I did not see. I appreciate all the help from everyone. GS Resources is great - keep up the good work
DATE: September 26, 1998
QUESTION: Bad clutch adjustment - 1982 GS400T I recently put my GS400 on the road and use it to commute in to the city , the trip is 55km each way. After about a month now , I'm developing a problem shifting. At first the problem was shifting in to neutral. Now it also rough shifting in to 3'rd. As well , it also seems that the clutch isn't completely engaged when I'm sitting at a light , (i.e., if I push the bike forward it seems to pull forward). I'm wondering if the cable may be stretching and I all I need is a clutch adjustment or this is a larger problem. RIDER: Mike Docherty REPLY: Frank Perreault
Sounds like you need to adjust the clutch cable first and see what you have once that's done. Adjusting the cable costs nothing - anything else you need to do will probably end up costing money. If adjusting the cable doesn't work, you'll need to measure the clutch plates for wear. If they are worn you'll need to change the clutch plates and the clutch springs.
DATE: August 24, 1998
QUESTION: How to do a wheel alignment I have a 1980 GSX 1100 ET and a 1981 GS 1100 LT How do I go about aligning the wheels? (all bearings have been renewed) Clymer shows that I can sight along the drive chain is there a more accurate way of rigging the bike? RIDER: Bruce Roy REPLY: Frank Perreault
Bruce answered his own question. This is how to do an accurate wheel alignment! In fact, it is the method that the lots of race teams, both motorcycle and stock car use.
REPLY: Bruce Roy
I sat the bike on its center stand with the seat removed and with the assistance of a small floor jack and placing a spirit level across the frame (several places) I leveled the bike laterally. By placing the spirit level vertically (it has a vertical and horizontal bubble) against one of the front brake discs you can find a definite central position (thanks to the steering head angle), the front wheel is now aligned straight with the frame I then ran a string line suspended between two stable stands (actually one was my garage door and the other was the frame of my portable compressor) at an uninterfered distance the full length of the bike at roughly the same height as the axles and using an accurate ruler a bit of juggling and some patience I aligned the string parallel with the beads (front and rear) of the front wheel then took measurements against the rear wheel beads and as I suspected the front of the rear wheel was around 7 mm out compared to the back of the wheel I adjusted this out and (the swingarm marks are about 1/2 division different now) and the bike road tested like a new one. Its a simple task that makes a heck of a lot of difference to the bikes handling and all is needed is a string line, a builders spirit level and an accurate ruler.
DATE: August 24, 1998
QUESTION: Dump truck + bike = $ - 1981 GS650E I have a couple of problems with my 1981 GS650E. It has 26k on it and I am deeply in love with it. :) First is my 32 carb. The float keeps sticking. I have taken my carbs out and cleaned them four different times and this is getting to be a monthly thing. Is there anything I can do to stop this ritual? My other problem is almost kind of funny. My motorcycle was run over by a dump truck. It got dragged about 8 feet under the front bumper and then dragged back a few feet. It was parked out in front of my apartment, do nobody was hurt, except my bike. Anyway, the handlebars were bent up and I bought new ones, but when I put them on, they point to the right a little bit. What would be bent to make them be off alignment like that? I can't see any apparent damage. Is there any way to fix this? It's is rather annoying. I certainly have learned one thing. If a motorcycle can be run over by a dump truck and still start up and drive, it's one hell of a motorcycle. RIDER: Tom Minton REPLY: Frank Perreault
And the dump truck didn't loosen up that float any? ;-) What are you doing to free up the float? It sounds like there might be a burr on the float pin or something. If you aren't finding something like gunk on the pin then I'd check it for a crimp in the hinge of the float, a burr or something. The float should flop freely. Since you're not saying exactly what you doing to free it up, it's hard to prescribe something. And it's a good bike, dump truck or not. You may want to check the forks though. They may have got bend up a tad.
REPLY: Zack Schultz
I won't talk to the float question, Frank covered it. As to the forks, check to make sure that the forks aren't tweaked in the triple clamp. Check to see if there is a fork brace under the fender - some models have this. It's only a stamped piece and bends easily. Check to see that they are straight - just as you would a pool cue.
DATE: July 13, 1998
QUESTION: What to look for in a replacement gas tank I purchased this bike a couple of years ago, the tank had been braised along the seams where I guess it had split a few years earlier --> new tank reqd. What should I look out for when buying another one? The guy at the local scrap yard says he may be able to dig one out of his barn, but it will require painting. $75 (Canadian) for the tank, $150 for paint, and I may as well get the side panels etc done whilst I'm at it. Can you recommend a good aftermarket exhaust system - not too expensive? RIDER: Tim Biggs REPLY: Frank Perreault
You want to check the inside of the tank for rust. If you see rust, then chances are that that one won't last long either. In any case, once you replace there gas tank make sure you install one of the $3 gas filters in the fuel line. You don't want any of that junk getting into the carbs. As for a cheap exhaust, there is no such thing. You might want to check JC Whitney but remember, you get what you pay for. Vance & Hines, SuperTrapp and Kerker are the name brands that I know of anyway.
DATE: June 27, 1998
QUESTION: What grease to use? The Clymer manual recommends molybdenum disulphide grease for splined shaft lubing. I can't find moly grease anywhere-except for auto disc brake applications. What should I use, and does it matter? RIDER: Joseph Brennan REPLY: Frank Perreault
Any high quality, dark color, grease will do (not white grease). Usually, molybdenum is mentioned on the label, but in any case, I use Quaker State grease in my grease gun. That can be picked up at Wal-Mart for just a couple bucks a cartridge.
DATE: June 11, 1998
QUESTION: Tach doesn't work - 1982 GS1100GK First I want to say that I really like your site, it has been a big help to me. I just purchased the above bike this spring after being out of the game for many years. I am learning to ride a big bike all over again. My question is., what happened to my tach? I thought for some time that I had a buzzing in my fairing that I could not find. It seems to be gone now that my tach quit. When I first checked the tach by removing the cable the cable turned at idle. Now after running with it unhooked for a few miles it no longer turns. Did I screw it up by running it on hooked? Can the head be repaired if that is messed up? I did not pull the cable from the engine to check there yet. Many thanks and GOD BLESS. RIDER: Russ Larges REPLY: Frank Perreault
The inside cable actually slides freely inside the outer sheath. I believe that the cable slid out of the tach drive connector on the engine making it where you wouldn't see it spin with the engine. Loosen the tach cable from the engine and pop the cable back in the hole and you should be all set. Before refastening the cable to the engine you may want to make sure the the cable spins freely when not connected to anything. If there is any weird rubbing noises you may want to replace the cable.
DATE: June 11, 1998
QUESTION: Problems and noise - 1981 GS1100E I have a 1981 GS1100E with 70,000 KM's on it (45,000 miles), and am having a lot of trouble getting it into neutral. The gears are generally clunky overall, but lately I can't seem to shift into neutral at all if the bike isn't moving. Any ideas? The bike is also making some unsettling sounds in the following situations- 1) When the engine is really hot from riding too much in slow traffic, for example, and I try accelerating from under 2500 rpm, it sounds like the valves are hitting something.. Is this an adjustment problem, or am I just operating the bike poorly? 2) Occasionally when the bike is idling, it starts to make a sound like there is a big chain inside that is vibrating in the transmission section, and a little twist on the gas usually makes it go away, but it will return when it slows down again. Other times the engine runs smoothly at any low rpm. If these symptoms are indicative of a major overhaul... Where can I get some information on doing this? RIDER: Paul Litherland REPLY: Frank Perreault
With the amount of miles on the bike and the shifting difficulties I would have the clutch checked. I sounds like it may need to be adjusted or replaced. I will mention that the 1100 has a sort of clunky shift when standing still anyway. For question #1 I'd have the valves adjusted and for question #2 I'd have the cam chain tensioner checked. These are scheduled maintenance type items and it gives me the impression that the bike hasn't been properly maintained. You may want to take the bike to the dealer and just have them go over the whole bike. Just be prepared with your wallet however.
DATE: May 17, 1998
QUESTION: Vibration and other questions - GS450 I have a front suspension problem, vertical up and down action noticeable 25-50MPH. I am replacing the front fork seals and replacing fluid soon. How important is spoke tuning, and how is it done (properly?) Also I am missing the front engine mount (On Order) would that cause the problem? Where can I find info on the various models of GS450'S and what are the differences? e.g. GS450 T-L E- etc.. Thanks, any help appreciated. RIDER: Richard Hughes REPLY: Frank Perreault
A missing engine mount would certainly cause vibration problems, in addition to other problems. Yes, you need to get that installed first in order to see what you're really dealing with. As for spoke tuning, this is typically done with the wheel in a jig so that it can spin freely. A dial micrometer is then mounted so that it touches the side of the rim while the tire is being rotated. The spoke adjusters are then turned according to the sound the spoke makes when plucked and what the micrometer shows. There is a bit of skill involved with this. For model information, read some of the articles on this page that ask the same question.
DATE: May 2, 1998
QUESTION: Care for a new bike - GSX1100S I've just become the proud owner of a brand new GSX1100S. As it's my first ever new bike I intend to cherish it. So how should I go about running her in, also what's the best possible oil I can use in this model? Any other hints or tips on keeping her in peak condition gratefully received, Thanks guys. RIDER: Joel Uden REPLY: Frank Perreault
Follow the directions in the manual for Break-In procedures. What you do here will seriously impact just how well the bike will run and last in the years ahead. As for oil, I can't recommend enough to spend the money and use a good motorcycle oil in your bike, not automotive oil. While it is more expensive to do it that way, your bike will run smoother and quieter using bike oil and it will be less prone to oil viscosity breakdown due to heat then an automotive oil. And a 1100 runs hot! Prepare your bike properly when storing for a long time and the bike will outlast you. My 1981 GS1100EX still looks and runs like new.
DATE: May 2, 1998
QUESTION: Smoke in 1983 GS1000GL I have a 1983 Suzuki GS1000GL. Just bought it for $650. Is that a good price? It is is very good to excellent condition. Anyway, I noticed while idling, it is emitting some smoke from the air filter area. I took the filter side plate off and started it up and watched. This smoke has a gas vapor smell to it. It is rolling in the top of the air filter reservoir. Do you think maybe a synchronization? Maybe the mixture is too rich? Also, what is the best octane gas to run in this bike? Thank you for your web page!! It is very useful and helpful. I appreciate your time in doing this!! Thanks! RIDER: Ed Mitchell REPLY: Frank Perreault
The smoke is normal. It is smoke coming from the oil and it is routed to the airbox so that it is burned in the engine instead of being vented out into the atmosphere. It's part of the Crankcase Ventilation system. All cars have a similar system. The reason for the gas smell is that the airbox is connected to the carbs which deliver the gas to the engine. You may need to change your oil also since you may have gas in it.
DATE: April 16, 1998
QUESTION: Oil cooler caused pressure drop? My '78 GS1000 came with an oil cooler (actually two, big & small) in the "extras" box, but the previous owner said that he had been told that a low pressure oil system like the roller bearing GS motor could be oil starved by the pressure drop through the cooler. In your experience is there any truth to this? RIDER: Joseph Lanfrankie REPLY: Frank Perreault
I have never heard of problems caused by pressure drop induced by an oil cooler. If anything, the resulting damaging from oil breakdown due to high temps is more of a real problem than any pressure drop that a cooler can cause. All race bikes and a lot of street bikes have them (including mine), so they can't be that bad.
REPLY: Zack Schultz
Why would an oil cooler cause a drop in pressure? These are installed in the pressurized circuit (as opposed to gravity) and are essentially just a longer routing for the oil to return to the sump. You may need a 1/2 quart more oil if you run the cooler, but I consider it insurance.
DATE: April 16, 1998
QUESTION: Weird sounds - 1981 GS650E Hi. I love your site and it has been a huge help to me. I bought a 1981 GS650E with 25k for $500 and after a new stator/reg-rect/battery it runs good. I do have some questions. The baffle in the right muffler is rusted out. While this doesn't seem to do anything but make it sound cool, I was wondering if there was anything that that could harm (carbs)? Also, under load, when I start out there is a sound not unlike a diesel tractor starting up coming from the drive area. I also notice a faint thump at highway speeds. Any ideas? The sprocket teeth are good. Lastly, do you know what the approx. range is in the reserve tank. Thank you for taking the time to answer these questions. As a college student in Seattle, I found that this is a good, cheap way to get around. Keep up the good work on the GS Resources!! RIDER: John Thomas Minton REPLY: Zack Schultz
More questions than I have answers, but here goes. By having one baffle rusted out, the cylinders dumping exhaust are flowing freer than the others. They will also be running slightly leaner with the increased flow. Over the long haul, you run the risk of burning those exhaust valves, detonation and holing a piston. But that sounds worse than I think the situation really is. Best suggestion is get a pipe and have it jetted proper. More importantly, you're putting undue stress on the crank and main bearings. Again, nothing dramatic, but you are affecting the longevity. However, your comment about the diesel tractor makes me think that there is some detonation under load. In keeping with the cheap college student theme, the best solution may be to get some exhaust bandage tape at the Auto parts place and wrap it around the holy exhaust. Unsightly, but effective. The rest of your questions, dunno.
DATE: April 16, 1998
QUESTION: Noises - GS550ES I have a 1985 GS550ES with almost 21,000 miles. It has the TSCC series engine. When I lay on the throttle hard, and the bike reaches about 4000 RPM, I get a terrible rattling sound. It goes away by the time I hit 5000 RPM, and is the loudest in 1st and 2nd. The bike doesn't really make the sound after 4th gear. It seems to be related to how fast the engine spins up. I thought it was the cam chain, but after removing the rocker cover, the chain appears to be in great condition. I have also replaced the cam chain tensioner with a brand new genuine Suzuki one. My next step is going to be to pull the clutch apart. I would appreciate it if you could help lead me in the right direction. RIDER: Neal Bankston REPLY: Zack Schultz
The 550's have a two stage ignition advance. Around 3k, it's transitioning from 11 degrees BTDC and 31 degrees. It's possible that you're noticing this as the tach is indicating 4k. A cause of the noise then could be poor octane ratings or too much accumulated carbon in the combustion chamber to support that kind of advance until the air/fuel charge starts moving at the higher RPM's. Try getting a combustion chamber cleaner such as a GM product or Sea foam and running that through before tearing things open. Or run a full tank of premium through the bike also.
DATE: April 10, 1998
QUESTION: Smokin' GS1100E I bought the set of K&N filters for my GS 1100E (and yes it has been jetted for it, before I get flak on it, the bike ran fine without any air cleaner), but the K&N kit also come with a smaller filter. I was told by the dealer it was a crankcase filter. Great. Okay, now there is one hose coming off of the top of the engine in the middle, that originally ran to the filter box ( I think ?? , which is now gone i.e.: clearance for K&N's). So I plunked the smaller filter onto the hose, actually the guy at the shop said that the filter would attach directly to the engine, but it has a metal hose connector on it and so does the K&N. So I shortened up the hose and put the filter on. OK, now when I fire the bike (and that's a beautiful thing I must say :) , after about 3-4 mins wisp's of smoke start coming from the filter. Is this normal? I'm wondering if it's just the filter oil heating up or is this just crankcase gas escaping and is normal, or did I screw up the whole damn thing ??? Thanks in advance. RIDER: Mike Espie REPLY: Frank Perreault
It's normal and there is nothing to worry about. You'll probably notice that the top of the engine will get just a bit dirtier now because of it.
DATE: March 22, 1998
QUESTION: Paint needed for brake calipers I have stripped and cleaned the front and rear brake calipers as the original paint was looking a bit tired!. Suggestions please for a suitable finish that is readily available (in the UK) that will be brake fluid resistant and as close to the original satin black as possible. Thanks - the GS Resources has been useful and informative - keep up the good work! RIDER: Paul Rhynehart REPLY: Chris Leonard
I am restoring an 1978 GS1000S. I can not guarantee and exact colour match to the original paint but have a look at PJ1 paint. It comes in various heat ranges and gives a very goods finish. One thing though make sure you use it at a temp over 70 / 21 degrees or the finish will suffer. It is available at a lot of bike shops in the UK, if you have trouble getting it try Ron at Bloomfields Motorcycles in West Ham.
DATE: March 22, 1998
QUESTION: Clutch problems - 1983 GS650GD I have two questions about my 83 GS650GD with 18,000K, that may be related. 1. Lately my bike hasn't been starting, push the starter switch and nothing. However I think I've pinned it down. If I pull back the clutch handle as far back as it will go, or push the clutch release arm in, it will start. I know the handle must be pulled to start the bike but something's wrong. It never had to be pulled that much.
2. The clutch action is gotten extremely stiff. I can sometimes hardly pull the handle back. Does the mean I need a new cable? Any help would be much appreciated. RIDER: Wilbur Thompson REPLY: Frank Perreault
It sounds like you may need to change the clutch cable. They aren't really sealed that well against moisture and it sounds like the cable is corroded and getting hung up in the sleeve. This will cause hang-ups when both pulling and releasing the clutch lever. As for the clutch disconnect switch, I don't think that there is any problem there since there is no adjustment for that switch.
REPLY: Wilbur Thompson
Thanks for the answer I changed the clutch cable and it solved both problems; man what a difference in the clutch action.
DATE: January 15, 1998
QUESTION: Where to get parts I just recently acquired a 78 GS-850, but it unfortunately has some problems it needs a couple of parts, but since I am not a mechanic I will not go in there.
My question is, since my bike is from the U.S. and I live in Azores, Portugal. I was wondering if i can order the parts from anywhere in Europe or do I have to order them from the U.S. Because I thought that maybe since they are engine related parts, it won't matter. I can try and explain what is wrong but I'm afraid my English isn't that good, especially in mechanical terms.
The part I need is what controls the spark, it sits in the right-lower side of the engine, will a European part do, or does it have to be American? RIDER: Mike Maciel REPLY: Frank Perreault
You can get the parts from anywhere that you can order them. The bike is originally made in Japan and that's where the parts come from. So it doesn't matter where you order the parts from.
The electrical part you are thinking about is the Ignitor Unit. This goes for about $140US so you want to make sure that this is the part that you really need. Typically you can not return electrical parts if you find that you've ordered a part that wasn't the problem.
DATE: January 15, 1998
QUESTION: Misfiring on a 1980 GS850GT I have a 1980 GS850GT with MAC 4 into 2 exhaust. I had the carbs retuned and a tune up performed because I keep getting a misfire or backfire sputtering when the bike is first started. Then the sputter goes away except for when I down shift. All the electrical components have been replaced. Any ideas would truly be appreciated. RIDER: Paul A. TeNyenhuis REPLY: Zack Schultz
This is easy. You need to have the carbs rejetted. It's running too rich. Check a plug and the outlet of the exhaust. My bet would be sooty and dark black, the plugs may even be wet. You get a backfire when there is enough fuel still in the exhaust to burn. A point to remember is that all 4 cyl engines work on the 'lost spark' operation. Each coil fires 2 cylinders EVERY TIME. Since one cylinder is on the exhaust stroke - no problem. Except the exhaust valve is open and there's the potential that if there is fuel in the pipe it'll fire.
You don't say, but is the pipe new? If so, was the bike rejetted? MAC's from what I've seen and heard are notoriously hard to jet properly. It could also be that if the fiberglass packing has been blown out or burnt, the pipe is now flowing more freely and causing problems.
DATE: January 14, 1998
QUESTION: Lube intervals for various bearings - GS850GN The Clymer manual has no regular interval for lubrication of steering head bearings, swing arm bearings and shaft splines. Should these be inspected/lubed at some interval? Have there been failures? How about wheel bearings? RIDER: Joe Brennan REPLY: Frank Perreault
I'm anally retentive so I do all my bearings every winter when I tear down my bike. In fact, I have a hypodermic needle attachment for my grease gun for lubing those bearings with the rubber seals.
For a normal person I would think that lubing them every 2 to 3 years would be fine. I would shorten that time if you put in serious miles or do a lot of wet weather riding.
DATE: January 14, 1998
QUESTION: Clearcoat on a GS1100 Just read your post in the Answers section of GS page. I just acquired a 83 GS1100G that has great paint, but the clearcoat on top of the fuel
tank is fading/cracking/looking crappy. Do I understand that you used this Savogran stuff on the clearcoat, WITHOUT damaging the paint underneath? Please clarify... I'd like to get rid of the clearcoat without damaging the beautiful black & silver underneath. RIDER: Jon Bowden REPLY: Frank Perreault
DO NOT use Savagran on the clear coat! It will remove both the clearcoat AND the paint from your gas tank!
I've used Savagran to remove all paint before I went ahead and repainted my gas tank. I also used it to remove the the clear plastic finish that Suzuki uses to coat all the aluminum pieces. When doing this be careful not to get any on the painted surfaces that you don't want stripped.
There is nothing however, that you can use to strip just the clearcoat and not have the paint come off with it. Sorry.
DATE: December 19, 1997
QUESTION: Powder coat paint on a 1983 GS1100G engine Weeellll, Frank says I gotta rip "Old Horse" apart to change my cam chain. Lookin' forward to it. But brings up a point - might as well do a "ground up" restoration while I'm at it. Question is, my aluminum is pretty mangy looking so was wondering if it is possible to "Powder Coat" the heads and cyl. block. Don't have a feel for how much heat the process will stand. Will have to ship the components Calif. to do it. Will also do the frame etc. Opinions? RIDER: Mike Thompson REPLY: Zack Schultz
Powder coat is paint - just another process. It'll probably hold up as well as the stock type stuff, but here's something I'm going to try with my header. Check out http://www.hpcoatings.com. Stumbled across it awhile back and managed to dig it up again just today. They list something for engines. Hope it helps.
DATE: December 17, 1997
QUESTION: Engine dies on high RPM roll off Last year I was given a 1983 GS1100E that was sitting for 10 years in a garage. I've replaced tires, brake lines and fuel lines; rebuilt the slave and master cylinders (disconnected the anti-dive's); cleaned the tank (a mess) and the carbs ( a bigger mess); and replaced or repaired a bunch of other stuff. Now it starts and run pretty good except for one big problem. At high speeds, when I back off the throttle, the bike stalls. Dropping a gear or two and popping the clutch only make the bike sputter. The only way to restart it is to wait about 10 minutes and then it starts right up.
The carbs are spotless and the spark is strong. I don't think I've done anything wrong. My theory is that the bike is running very, very rich. It has an aftermarket pipe on it (RC Engineering) and the stock airbox. I've never had any tools with me to pull a plug when it stalls. So, I bought a jet kit on the advice of a guy a work and I'm going to drop it in over the Christmas holidays.
Am I way off base here? Does this seem like a reasonable theory? Anybody got a better one? RIDER: Bob Frisbie REPLY: Zack Schultz
Check the vacuum lines and fuel line from the tank to the carbs. I believe that bike uses a vacuum petcock like my 84 GS550. If you are running at high R's and there is a slight pinch in the fuel lines, you'll be feeding fuel but not refilling the float bowl. When you chop the throttle, the petcock won't stay open because you'll lose vacuum for a moment - then she dies and there'll be no fuel in the bowl to restart.
You could try taking it for a run with the petcock on the 'prime' position and see if it fixes things - again assuming it's the same on our two bikes.
At least it's another theory...
DATE: December 5, 1997
QUESTION: Little rubber plugs on GS450L, what for? Hi, I am semi-restoring a 1980 GS450L and noticed I am missing some of the little rubber plugs {called damping rubbers in a Hayes manual}. They are pressed into the air-cooling fins , near the spark plug area. I am just wondering what they are for, what they do, and if they are are important, since no dealer in the N.E. USA seems to know. RIDER: George Pelosi REPLY: Frank Perreault
I'm going to have to put a bit of science to this but my guess would be to reduce vibration and noise. Because the fins on the cylinder head are fairly wide, in fact a lot wider than the fins found on the lower cylinders, this could make the fins more prone to breakage if a harmonic vibration were to occur at high RPM's. Also the greater mass of the fins would make them a better noise radiator than the smaller fins would. I believe this is a low cost solution to cure both problems.
Any other guesses out there?
REPLY: Alex Firioubine
My guess for these "damping rubbers" is that they help to cool the engine down. I don't know how it works, but I had the same "rubbers" on my GS400, and then I decided to take them off. I only rode for about 30 mile, and I felt something's wrong with my engine. Most of the power was gone, and it was RED. No kidding guys, you could take a cigarette and light it up. I came home, stopped 5 times for about 30min to cool the engine down. Then I placed those rubbers back, and since then, my bike worked fine.
REPLY: Frank Perreault
Wow, that's a new one on me! Has anyone else seen this?
REPLY: Zack Schultz
That's easy. They're for removing the harmonics to reduce the SOUND readings. Suzuki started putting them in when the Feds came up with the 85db limit. Same reason Buell has the carb and exhaust on opposite sides. The more noise you can reduce, the freer the exhaust can be to
still slide under the regs.
As far as making the engine run hotter, that's a new one on me. I suppose anything is possible.
BTW, I pulled all mine out when I repainted the engine - didn't notice anything heat or noise, but I don't have a baffle in the can anyway.
DATE: November 19, 1997
QUESTION: A winter project I went ahead and bought the '78 GS 750 this week (mentioned in an earlier post to GS Resources Q&A). The bike has 17K miles, a Vetter fairing, hard bags and a trunk. It's in clean, unrestored condition. Over the winter months I plan to dismantle it for cleaning, painting, etc. I'm looking for tips on specific things to do while the bike's apart (such as things that are much more difficult to accomplish when it's put together)? I realize this is a wide-open question and may be difficult to answer. This is my first bike project and I'd like to avoid as many pitfalls as possible. RIDER: Bill Kingson REPLY: Frank Perreault
I would have you refer to the article listed below titled "Pulling that bike out of storage" located below. This will give you the information needed to give your bike a good going over before putting it on the road. If the bike was running, you can probably avoid having to do at least some of the work listed there, so use your own discretion.
Some additional things to do. Change all the fluids, check tires and replace if necessary, check the chain and sprockets and replace if necessary. Replace any rubber pieces like gas lines and vacuum hoses which are cracked and/or are non-pliable. This includes the rubber connecters between the carbs and the engine.
If you're feeling really ambitious you can remove all the parts which have bearings and such, like the steering stem and swingarm and clean and grease them up. Make sure everything gets tightened to recommended specifications.
DATE: November 8, 1997
QUESTION: Pulling that bike out of storage I have a 1981 GS850GX that has been sitting in the garage for 10 years. It originally had a bad voltage regulator. I would like to put it back on the road. My question is what should be done to make this bike road worthy again. RIDER: Jay REPLY: Peter Huppertz
10 years in the garage... ouch! I've never had a bike in a garage for THAT long!
As to the regulator: hmmm... bad news there. Check The Stator Papers. I've written it down there, I'm rather unwilling to repeat it all here.
For the rest: there are a few things that I KNOW you should check on a bike which has been dormant that long: disassemble and clean the carbs, and check the rubber inlet ports that go into the cylinder. If they're hard and brittle, replace them. Same goes for the rubbers from the air filter house to the carbs. Check the gas tank. Is it rusted inside? There are operations that will clean and de-rust your tank. Check fuel lines from tank. Are they clean? Have they dried out and become brittle?
And last, before you apply power to the thing: are all electrical connections okay? check whether they're clean and whether conductivity is OK and check for chafed wiring. Be sure to have some spare fuses at hand ;-)
Of PARAMOUNT importance: make sure you have a fire extinguisher around :-( (should be in any workshed anyway...)
REPLY: Frank Perreault
You also may want to check the battery voltage before attempting to turn it over. I doubt whether the battery lasted 10 years but who knows? You could have a miracle battery there. Once that was checked I would also disconnect the spark plug wires and turn the bike over a couple of times (about 10 seconds worth) in order to make sure the bearings in the top end have a little oil on them. After 10 years of sitting the odds of a dry start are pretty good. To be real safe from dry start damage, you can pull off the valve covers, pour a little oil over all the cam lobes and then adjust the valves.
Place the bike on the center stand and make sure that the wheels turn freely and that you don't hear any grinding noises coming from the wheel bearings. Moisture could have gotten in and rusted them together. Same goes for the front steering bearings. Check all rubber brake lines for cracks. Because brake fluid absorbs water you may want to replace all the brake fluid in order to eliminate possible sponginess. Check the brake pads while you're at it.
Once the bike gets heated up you may want to immediately change the oil and oil filter. Check the air cleaner and see whether that needs replacing also. Check the tightness of all bolts and you should be cooking.
REPLY: Ritzo Muntinga
My comments on the engine-side:
Drain the oil, replace the oil-filter, and fill it up with new engine oil. After standing for this long you don't know what's in the old oil (water, old fuel) New hypoid gear-oil in the shaftdrive gearboxes (dont forget the gearbox for the out-going shaft on the engine itself, it's lubricated by gear-oil, not engine-oil) I've come across quite a few GS850-owners that didn't know about this separate oil reservoir.
Check the advance/retard unit on the crankshaft to see if it moves freely.
Completely disassemble the carbs.( you can leave them in one block, and leave the throttle-valves in place) With compressed air you can check if there are any connections blocked. When you study the carb-body you can easily see which bore goes where. See through the pilot-jets if they're (sometimes partly !) blocked. The very small hole in the inlet-tract trough which the thin nose of the pilot adjuster screw goes has to be clean and free. Cleaning the carbs this way is extremely important, you want a sound-running engine don't you?
Replacing the fuel lines is best, and add an inline car-type paper fuel filter. These paper filters are much better than the smaller gauze-type fuel filters through which rust-particles easily flow. The bigger filter is a bit difficult to find a good place for, but it's worth the hassle.
Throw 10-year old sparkplugs away and fit new ones.
Disconnect all plugs and connectors on the bike, spray with WD40 or something similar, check if they're still tight and reconnect all. Handlebar switches could also do with some WD40. Inspect the fuse box. Bad connections here give heat build-up and sometimes the soldered on wires on the back of the fusebox come loose.
As Frank said : turn the bike over on the starter-motor to get oil in all important places. With perfectly cleaned out carbs, the fuel lever on pri, the choke on, a fully charged battery, and new sparkplugs I think the engine will start instantly on all four cylinders on pressing the button.
DATE: Nov 8, 1997
QUESTION: GS850 Aluminum corrosion - revisited I have an '82 GS 850GLZ that has the same problem with the plastic coating flaking off. I was wondering what paint stripper you used and the method with which you applied it. RIDER: Jeff Pych REPLY: Frank Perreault
The stripper I used was made by Savagran and it is called "Heavy Duty SuperStrip". I should say that this is some real nasty stuff and it is really good for stripping that plastic and also the polyurethane paint that is put on Suzuki gas tanks! Remember, it's also poisonous... Get yourself some heavy duty rubber gloves made for stripping, a junk towel for putting on the ground to catch the melted plastic, a cheapo natural bristle brush and some cotton rags. Put some remover on the brush, and lightly coat the piece that you want to take the plastic off of. Don't get this stuff on anything that you don't want to strip! After 1 minute or so the plastic should start bubbling off. Get a rag and wipe it off. Repeat this as necessary. Don't put it on any rubber or plastic pieces - only the metal. Try not to play with the stuff while it's sitting on the piece. This causes the stripper to emit the vapors more readily, causing the stripper to not work as well. Once your all done, hose off all the areas you stripped, wash the bike and polish the parts using something like Mother's Polish or Semichrome Polish. You'll have to keep polishing from now on but the bike will look like a million dollars!
DATE: October 30, 1997
QUESTION: High RPM Misfire I have a 1980 GS550L. I just had the carbs rebuilt at the local Suzuki shop, but I am still having a bad misfire above 4000rpm. It has been suggested to check the grounds on the coils, but that was all they could come up with. Anybody got any ideas? RIDER: Brian Allgood REPLY: Bill Chandler
Could be you're running lean or the cam timing is off. If the carbs were rebuilt recently, check to see if all the fittings are connected correctly (carb to head, air-box to carb, vacuum line to tank, etc). If these are not connected properly, you'll get excessive air that will mess up your mixture ratio's. Ask the shop if they changed any jets or put the stock ones back in. Maybe they put the wrong ones in the wrong port. Since you paid for work done, it's their responsibility to follow-up on any malfunction caused after the work was competed.
REPLY: Brian Allgood
Thanks for the response......I'll give you a little further info. The bike had been sitting for several years when I took possession. I removed the carbs myself and cleaned them but when I put it back together she would not run well and it got worse as the RPM's rose. The shop decided to do the carbs again (which was needed) but when the bike was run after this she still would not run smoothly above 4000 RPM. I have gone back to the shop and they are going to test the coils to see if they are breaking up at high RPM. The misfire only occurs when the bike is under a load. If you rev it up in neutral then she seems fine.
I have found that I have a small vacuum leak between the intake manifold and the cylinder head. Do you know where I can get a manifold used?
P.S. The carb job was a freebee because I am friends with the owner, so I can't really complain.
REPLY: Frank Perreault
If you are still looking for a intake manifold you may want to place a request for the part with Bill Chandler so that he can add it to the Wanted section on our web site.
DATE: Sept 4, 1996
QUESTION: Run problems, 83 GS750ES Had this bike since 85, problem ever since. Periodically, it starts to falter, as though out of gas. This begins to happen at high RPM, then gets worse and worse 'til I'm on the side of the road...... after a while it will crank again and run, though ratty. Sometime prob. goes away for months. *Very* frustrating. Almost surely electrical problem, seems to affect cyl. 2 & 4 first.... all components 'spensive, so hate to replace all. I *did* replace ignition box at one point. The prob. showed up again later. Nice bike, but driving me nuts with unreliability...... haven't bought a Suzuki since.... Any help would be appreciated. RIDER: John Whitton REPLY: Frank Perreault
A: I had the same problem on my 1100. In fact, I changed the ignition box with the same results. I'd go through and check all the electrical connections from the pickup sensor on the right side of the engine, to the ignition box and then to the coils. Make sure all connections are clean and tight (WD-40 or Radio Shack Contact Cleaner works great). Pay real close attention all the connectors since they tend to mung up fairly quick.
REPLY: Conrad Price
A: I run a GS1100EX which I brought back from CO with me, and I found that after an hour or so riding the bike started to loose power, and run bad as though it was out of gas. It took a while to realize that the breather assembly (through the tank filler cap) was not letting air into the tank and it was causing a vacuum in the tank. If I stopped the bike, took off the filler cap, then gave it a minute for the float bowls to refill it was fine for another hour.
Obviously high speed cruising 80mph+ gave me a lot less than an hour. It might be worth checking this on your bike.
DATE: Aug 28, 1996
QUESTION: Running on 2 cyl.? I have a 1980 GS550L that's only running on 2 cylinders, the left 2... All them have good spark and compression but they won't run...After running for a few minutes, the right two exhaust pipes are cold and the left 2 are nice and hot ( my hand can prove that )...I just can't figure it out...Please help. RIDER: Randy REPLY: Frank Perreault
A: Has the bike been sitting idle for a long time? Does it sound like its running on 2 cylinders? What do the #1 and #2 spark plugs look like in comparison to #3 and #4?
If you are sure that you have spark to all four sparkplugs the next step is checking for fuel. For this you'll need some of those 6" Q-Tips on wooden sticks (Radio Shack sells them) and you'll have to remove the air filter from the airbox. Do this without the bike running!.
Remove the air filter, turn the fuel petcock to prime and twist the throttle about 5 times to full throttle. Take the Q-Tip, go through the air box and place it in the intake for carburetor #1 while holding the throttle open. Don't force the Q-Tip! Pull it out and check the Q-Tip for moisture and/or gas fumes. You should see or smell something on the Q-Tip. If not, that carburetor is plugged and will have to be disassembled and cleaned. Repeat for carb #2.
DATE: July 16, 1996
QUESTION: GS850 Aluminum corrosion I have a '79 GS850G that I have owned since new. This near pristine machine has but one problem, the corrosion that is appearing on the aluminum side covers on both sides of the engine. Is there anyway to correct this and to prevent further damage? RIDER: Art Pratt REPLY: Frank Perreault
Most aluminum parts are coated with a plastic that after a few years of the metal getting hot and sitting in the sun, tends to turn yellow and flake off. The only way to get it good looking again (that I know of) is carefully using a paint stripper on the aluminum pieces to take off the remaining plastic coating. Once it's all stripped it a matter of using Semichrome paste or Mother's Mag Polish and a bit of elbow grease. With a bit of rubbing you can get the aluminum to look like chrome.
I have seen products that can allow you to spray a plastic finish back onto the parts but you would still have to first strip off the old plastic and then buff the piece before applying. In 4 years, you'd be looking at the same problem again. I wouldn't recoat the parts if I were you.
DATE: July 8, 1996
QUESTION: Sleeping GS, needs lift. I'm trying to wake up an 83 GS750T from its 3-year slumber in a snow bank.
Q.1 The plug wires are labeled 1,2,3,4. Can anyone plse tell me the sequence in which they connect to the cylinders? When sitting astride the bike is it 1,2,3,4 left to right? Or is it 1, 3, 2, 4 left to right?
Q. 2 The bike will start but rpm climb uncontrollably. It will not idle. Great amounts of gas pour out of the airbox. Suggestions? (A lot of syrupy cruddy stuff came out of the carbs when I drained the float bowls.)
I'll greatly appreciate any help. I have sort of a deadline to get this thing moving. RIDER: kvanek@cmc.doe.ca REPLY: Jim Gilliam
The sequence is 1234 left to right. The petrol is pouring out because the float needles are stuck you will need to strip the carbs and clean them.......Good luck | 
