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| Page last modified: 09/03/08 SuspensionNote: Email addresses and links listed in this Q&A section may no longer be valid!
DATE: March 3, 2000 I have been trying to find a set of front forks for a 1983 Kat with no luck. My question is if the forks or another bike suck like a GS1100E or other model would fit on the 1983 Kat. I hope you can suggest me any alternative to solve my problem. Thanks, JJ RIDER: Joaquin J. Ortiz REPLY: Dina Gerolymou DATE: March 3, 2000 I am building a bike similar in style to a Bimota SB3/Moto Martin, or Macintosh for those who know what that is... I am using GSX1100 EFE forks, but am unsure of the oil capacity for each leg. also the weight of the 1100EFE so I can make a comparison if I should use slightly less or lighter grade... RIDER: Simon Lambert REPLY: Dina Gerolymou DATE: February 20, 2000 My rear shock has lost its oil and has no dampening. I have been quoted $1260 Australian for a new unit or $370 to have it rebuilt, (250 rebuild + 120 for new ball joints). Are there any cheaper options? RIDER: James Boddington REPLY: Chris Hunter DATE: February 20, 2000 The front fork seals have recently been done but I'm having difficulty finding out how much oil needs to go back in. RIDER: Paul Miles REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: November 7, 1999 My rear tyre is worn out and I need some advice on what tyre should I use. I understand that the original tyre size for my bike is an 18" 4.00(what size is that?) or a 120/90.The only Metzeler ME99 I can find here for my bike is a 120/80 or 130/80. Should I fit any of these larger tyes or should I go for the original size? I have obtained a set of 750 Katana exhaust pipes. Am I able to fit them straight on without fiddling with the carbs? "GREAT SITE" RIDER: Benjamin Goh REPLY: Rick Patrolia
DATE: September 18, 1999 I have a 1982 GS650GLX. I've been told that the original rear shocks are gone. Any recommendations best performance / price. I do basic riding and weigh in at 200lbs. Also, any recommendations for windshields. I'm removing a Windjammer and need a replacement that looks good. Thanks for being such a great resource! RIDER: Joseph E. Vincent REPLY: Paul Holman These shocks use 2 different rate springs on the same shock. The spring on the top is to give a soft ride and the one below is to handle more of the load. The ARS system allows adjustment of when the load is transferred to the larger stiffer spring. These shocks weren't the least expensive ($380 pr) but they are rebuildable and if you don't like how they ride they will change them during the first 30 days to try to make you happy. I am happy with them and would buy them again. It takes about 3 weeks to get them from the time you order. They also called me to let me know when they were being shipped out. (nice service!) I wanted to use their fork springs (they also use 2 springs in each tube) but they didn't have any avail. for my bike. I would recommend that you replace the fork springs as well as the shocks. After 17 years I'm quite sure it's ready for that. I decided my back was worth the money that I've spent for these upgrades and I'm happy I did it. If you want to check out there products they do have a website. http://www.worksperformance.com Hope this helps! DATE: September 18, 1999 I've been told that the front end off a 90's 750 or 1100 GSX will bolt over to my 83 GS 1100 E with only minor mods for the head light and instruments. The rear wheel looks like it won't fit with out some major work. The brake sets differently and the tire looks that it would be a very tight fit. Any info would be great and much detail would be appreciated. RIDER: Larry Johnson REPLY: Scott Horner DATE: July 31, 1999 I own a 1982 GS450. I am trying to replace the front fork seals. One of the forks is rusted on top where the upper spring seat is. I got it to go in enough to remove the circlip, but can't get it to come out. I've tried penetrating oil, heat, etc. to try to loosen it. nothing seems to work. Any ideas? RIDER: Gary Angelone REPLY: Gary Angelone I drilled a hole in the center of the plug, threaded it with a 1/4-20 tap. This should be done with the fork laying on it's side so no metal shaving get inside the tube. Then I put a piece of flat steel, with a 1/4" hole drilled in it, over the top of the fork tube. Screw in a 1/4-20 bolt, tighten it down like a puller and the plug comes right out. (make sure you order a new plug and o-ring first) DATE: July 31, 1999 My 85 GS700ES has an air suspension up front. Where is the location for checking (and adding to) it? There are plenty of hoses and attachments fort he anti-dive from the brake calipers, but I've seen nothing resembling an air connection. Perhaps I'm looking for the wrong thing? I'm expecting a tire-style valve. Thanks! RIDER: Dennis Ruffing REPLY: Sandra Whitney DATE: June 18, 1999 I have a 1981 GS850GX with a Dunlop Touring Elite rear tire that has about 7,000 miles on it. Tread still looks good and there is only a very slight "flat spot" in the middle of the tread. My (potential) problem is that the tire was installed in March 1985, so it is nearly 14 years old. It shows no signs of cracking, but seems a little stiff. Since I don't know how "stiff" it was when it was new, I don't know if I can trust it or not. I know it was stored indoors. I have a brand new Bridgestone Spitfire 11R (mounted on another rim) that is the proper size, but would like to get any remaining life out of the Dunlop before swapping rims. Any opinions appreciated! THANKS!!! RIDER: John G. Bloemer REPLY: Frank Perreault I was at the motorcycle shop today getting the rear tire changed from the GS750t rim (new tire) to the GS850G rim (old stiff tire) and I wanted a tubeless valve stem installed because the tire on the GS850 rim had a tube in it. The guy at the shop said that he would put a valve stem in there for tubeless use, but if he did it would leak. I asked why, and he said that air would leak through the rim! I asked how can this be because the rim is made out of solid metal. He replied that the rims are cast metal and that they are porous and tend to leak air right through the rim!! I said that the rim is marked "tubeless tire applicable" and the tire is marked "tubeless on a tubeless rim" and he said he knows that, but if you don't put a tube in it, it will leak. I thought that must be why there were tubes in all the "tubeless" tires on "tubeless" rims on the FRONT and REAR on the both the GS750t and the GS850G that I recently acquired. I told him to put a tube back in it because I didn't want it leaking, but I hate to give up the benefits of tubeless tires (less chance of blowout, cooler running, no tube wear-through, longer tread life). Has anyone else ever heard of this? Is anyone running tubeless on GS "tubeless tire applicable" rims out there and NOT having trouble keeping air in the tires? I also have a suggestion: how about adding "tires" to the "Suspension (shocks, steering, TIRES, etc....)" Q&A subject heading. This would make it easier to find tire related Q&A. THANKS and GREAT website!! As for the suggestion, it's done. Thanks! DATE: May 21, 1999 I am changing fork oil and seals on my beloved 1982 Gs1100ez, ( but am not sure if the forks are a 1983) and am having a problem with some info since I own a Clymer manual for the 1981 year. Can you please send me the info about : --fork oil capacity: --fork oil level: --fork spring length service limit: ( I measured mine and it's 422mm) Thanks in advance. RIDER: Luka Bastic REPLY: Bill Patten DATE: May 21, 1999 Could I get some info. on a swingarm swap. Will the arm from a GS1150{ I dont know the year} fit on my 79 GS1000N. ?, do I need anything else from the 1150? Thanks for the help, and a great info source. RIDER: Dianna MacQueen REPLY: Malcolm Evans Unless I'm getting confused with the fact that GS in the US means both GS and GSX......but as far as I can remember Suzi did not bring out her monoshocks 'til the 80's which rules out a '79 bike. Buy a Metmachex instead. http://www.metmachex.com DATE: March 22, 1999 Someone gave me a GS850G which had been sitting out in the Florida weather for about four years. I tried wire brushing the rust off of the forks before riding the bike but the fork seals started to leak fluid less than a mile down the road. Do I need new fork tubes or can I just replace the seals and hope for the best or?? RIDER: Ed Parsons REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: February 9, 1999 Some questions for you: Outstanding bike, but.......... I'm sick of the ridiculous 85-mph Claybrook speedometer!!! Is there a direct bolt-up replacement available? What about wider factory wheels -- do any later model, wider wheels bolt up? What about a 17" or 18" front to replace the 19"? Can any of the later, perhaps even GSX-R front ends drop into the 82 GS? I've seen this done with Honda CB1100F fronts dropping into 750 and 900F steering heads and am wondering if there is a Suzuki equivalent. RIDER: Scott Taylor REPLY: Malcolm Evans GSX 1100 EFE (GS 1150) front end with 16" front wheel bolt straight on complete, you then can also fit early GSXR four-pot Nissin brake calipers as these will bolt straight on to the legs and discs with no mods or brackets required. GSXR front ends can be a made to fit but you tend to lose about 1" of ground clearance which can be made up by stepped yokes but this is a custom machining job. [ed: See pics in Picture Gallery] DATE: February 9, 1999 Need to replace the tires on my 1977 GS 550 E. I prefer to by good ones rather than save a few bucks. Anyone have suggestions on what to buy or not buy. Sizes are : front 100/90/19, rear 120/90/18. RIDER: Bob Caldwell REPLY: Robert Del Riego How cold? Well, following good rain riding practice I was trying to stay in the tire tracks of the car ahead, and it was getting easier. Why was this, I thought?...soon It became more obvious, the tracks from the car ahead weren't dissipating because it wasn't all liquid now. I carefully, CAREFULLY made my way home, to discover tiny little drifts of sleet accumulated against my house. HEY, I thought...I don't pay taxes in San Francisco for THIS kind of weather!! Earthquakes, OK. But absolutely NO SNOW! Anyway, I have two 1980 GS550E's (w/cast wheels) and I've put about 50K on this particular tire combination: FRONT-Metzler ME33 Lazer (3.50-19*57H) REAR-Bridgestone Spitfire 11R (110/90-18 61H) I have done more rain riding (and sleetriding?) than I've wanted to, and these tires are so docile and predictable, I'm devoted to them. I'm now on my 4th pair. I highly recommend them for anybodies 1980 '550, and I think they should work as well on other '550E's. Interesting development recently however. I had much more trouble mounting this last Metzler than I ever had previously. I just could not get the bead to seat concentrically all the way around the rim.... so I finally gave up and took it back to the dealer. He explained the following: There was no rim profile standardized throughout the motorcycle industry in the 1970's. This meant that each manufacturer's rim might, or might not be compatible with each tire maker's product. (Can you believe it?) Then at some point (apparently AFTER they made my bike) all (some? all Japanese makers?) motorcycle manufacturers got together and agreed to settle on one standard rim profile, so that the TIRE makers could standardize their tire bead designs. I guess it was only a subtle change, but apparently it was a change... Apparently, Suzuki's rim design was NOT the one they all settled on. So Metzler, Suzuki, and everybody else changed their stuff to this standard. Then I come along and try to mount a Metzler (designed to the new standard) onto my 1980 Suzuki wheel (made back when each company had their own rim design) and they don't fit together like all my previous Metzler ME33 Laser's. Same wheel, the first 3 or 4 tires mounted no problem, last tire (exact same size, maker, and model) NOW a PROBLEM. So he finished the job (via a generous squirt of WD-40, he confided) and I've been running this one for 2,000 miles with no problems. I just can't believe this story. This is certainly an obscure problem, because most riders don't bother mounting their own tires (a choice I can now get with after this!) so it's never really discussed. It just seems like the ultimate expression of Murphy's Law, " whatever can be incompatible, WILL be incompatible". Can anyone else confirm this? DATE: January 26, 1998 I own a 83 GS 1100E and have found tire selection to be limited. What would be the easiest and most cost effective way to change rims to more modern sizes. Would a switch from a later model be the best? Also could a later model inverted fork be installed with out to much machining? Any info would helpful. RIDER: Larry Johnson REPLY: Billy Ricks At the rear I had to knock the bearings and bearing spacer out of my old wheel and install the in the GSXR rim. I used the GSXR rotor, caliper, caliper hanger, and the right side spacer from a Katana 600. I had to use large fender washers to get the centering right for both the wheel and the caliper. Make sure the rotor is centered in the caliper. I was lucky because former AMA 750 Supersport champ Britt Turkington is a friend of mine so I had a source for many of the parts. I figure I spent about $700-800 total. Now I have a 3.5"x17" rim with a 120/70 up front. At the rear it's a 4.5"x17" with a 160/60. It sits lower now because the forks on new bikes don't have as much travel as the old bikes because the radial tires soak up alot of the bumps. Now the thing rides better, stops better, and steers like it's on rails. A good source for parts is Cycle News, a racing publication that can be found on the net. Racers sell their old parts there and can be had at great prices. Good luck and if I can be any help to you feel free to drop me an email. BTW, I'd be happy to send you a pattern of the headlight brackets I made. They turned out looking like something you might find from Performance Machine. They look pretty good if I do so say myself. DATE: January 26, 1998 I have a 1983 gs850g ,recently it started making a clicking noise in the rear wheel area. Local mechanics are at a loss. I replaced the tire, brake pads, and wheel bearings. Nothing stopped the noise. The noise does not start until I ride several miles and in hot weather it starts sooner. Below 50 degrees it may take 25 miles. The bike has 54000 miles on it. I have owned Suzuki's since 1972,and never had this problem. RIDER: John Holbrook REPLY: Joe Amidon DATE: November 1, 1998 I'm happy to own two 1100`s. The second one was bought after a minor accident. The front tubes were slightly bent so I had them straightened out. After reassembling it there is no leak but it won't return by itself after I compress the suspension. If I pull slightly on the bars the suspension pops up where it should be. Any idea where I went wrong? RIDER: Jacques Sakaitis REPLY: Scott Horner DATE: November 1, 1998 I have a 1979 GS850 with a worn out engine. I purchased a 1981 GS850 engine in excellent condition and took it to a dealer to have it installed. I thought I had done all of my homework, and that it would bolt right in. However, the mechanic could not line up the drive shaft with the rear of the engine. Do you know what was changed between 79/81 that would cause a small misalignment between the engine and rear end? Thanks for any help. RIDER: Bob Quackenbush REPLY: Malcolm Evans DATE: November 1, 1998 I am replacing a leaking fork seal on my 1983 GS750ES. Unfortunately, I don't have a shop manual and can't find one anywhere. I am having a problem getting the outer fork tube assembly to go back onto the inner fork tube. It's starting to look like the fork seal and the washer and bushing that go beneath the seal need to go on after the outer tube has already been slid up onto the inner tube. Is this correct? My problem is that I can't get the inner fork tube out of the support brackets. The collar that has the fork air inlet on it won't budge. Is there some trick to getting that thing to come loose? Or is there another way to approach reassembly of the fork? Thanks for any help! This site is fantastic, by the way. RIDER: Mark White REPLY: Billy Ricks DATE: October 4, 1998 I have a 1981 GS750EX. First, is there a way to verify the fork oil level without disassembling the forks? There is a small bolt at the side/bottom of each leg (appears to be a drain plug) and the air valves for adjusting the pre-load at the top of each leg are removable. Also, since I can access these openings on either end of the forks, is it possible to use them to drain and refill the fork oil? Lastly, the manual calls for 10W oil. Should I stick with that, or is there a better choice. My riding territory is mostly smooth secondary roads with occasional "bumpy" stretches. I continue to find this site EXTREMELY helpful in correcting things neglected by the bike's previous owners. It's very satisfying to rescue something classic headed for the salvage yard and turning it into something fun and reliable. Again, thanks in advance for any and all answers anyone has to share. RIDER: Mark D. Fontana REPLY: Frank Perreault And thanks for the Kudos! Rather than splurge for a Suzuki tool which screws in the fork tube, however, I managed to improvise a tool for nothing. Take a Slurpee straw (or other large diameter drinking straw) and clip a regular spring clothespin to it at the right length for the level required. Set it on the top of the upright tube so the straw dangles into the fork oil. Siphon oil out until it draws air, and that is the correct level. Repeat on other fork tube. The problem with measuring is the possibility of residual fluid in the fork. It will be close, but a level reading is more accurate. DATE: September 27, 1998 I looking through the Suspension "answers" section I see a lot of Q&A about oil weight to use in front forks. Instead of straight 10W, 15W or 20W why can't I use synthetic (Mobil 1) 5w-50 in my front forks on a 1982 GS750TZ (air valves in the top of the front forks). It would seem to me that this multi weight would work nicely over a wide temperature range and riding conditions (bumpy - smooth). If this is NOT recommended, what would you (and others) recommend for one-up riding 85% of the time, and no touring gear or fairings. I tip the scales at about 190 lbs. Finally, fork oil leaked out of the forks after being compressed overnight on a trailer. Is this a sign that the fork seals are bad, or that the forks were overfilled with oil, or that it is stupid to leave the forks compressed for long periods of time? Great web site!!! RIDER: John G. Bloemer REPLY: Joe Amidon DATE: September 26, 1998 I have a 1982 GS1100E that I'm finally doing some suspension work to. Up front I've decided to go with Progressive Springs and GoldTech emulators, but can't decide on a rear shock. Here in Canada, Progressive is cheapest but has no damping adjustments, Works has both but is hideously expensive, Ohlin's is no doubt expensive but "promises" no better than six months delivery, maybe, Fox says they don't make any more twin shocks, and Koni says they have rebound-adjustable units for a price about midway between Progressive and Works. Anyone have any comments on experience with any of these? Thanks a lot in advance for any comments. RIDER: Larry Tate REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: September 26, 1998 I would like to reduce some of the unsprung weight on my 82 GS750E by replacing the stock steel swingarm with an aluminum one. What other models and years with an aluminum swingarm will provide a direct bolt on to my 82? Also, what years and models would have the same rear shocks? Mine has the Showas with 4-click adjustable damping. Thank you for the site and any help you can offer on this subject. RIDER: Tracy Presnell REPLY: Tracy Presnell I don't know all of the years that the swingarms will swap, but I at least know that an '82 and '83 1100 aluminum swingarm is the same length and width, and will fit right directly onto my '82 GS750E, almost. The differences are slight and aren't anything that will stop a competent builder from making the swap. The main difference is the size of the pivot bolt. The steel swingarm has a 13mm bolt, while the aluminum has a 16mm bolt. The front tube (as well as the side arms) on the aluminum swingarm are larger (I suppose to compensate for the strength difference) and therefore the bearing in the pivot end is larger, as well as the bolt that goes through it. The solution is pretty simple, either drill out the frame boss for the larger size bolt (I don't recommend that), or, make a thin sleeve to compensate for the diameter difference (my choice). The only other difference was the location of the front boss for the chain guard. Not a big problem. You could attach one either with a bolt or by welding it on. As for the shock question. Again, the shocks are the same for both of the stated years for the 750 and 1100. I ran across a pair of aftermarket units with dual springs (gold on bottom, silver on top) that have 3-way adjustable damping control. They look like they were on a bike for about 30 minutes and I got a great at $40 for the pair. Thanks for the site. In one word it is "excellent". DATE: August 24, 1998 I would like to get some feed back on my ideas for suspension improvements. I have a 1980 GS1100E (stock suspension) which I commute on and take weekend trips with the wife (with loaded bags). I weight 275lbs., count an additional 200lbs. fully loaded. What I intend on is ordering new Progressive front springs and rear shocks with the "hard" spring. I also plan of changing the oil in the fork to a heavier weight. Questions: What weight oil would be recommended and would a fork brace be worth the extra expense? Any feed back and/or questions that could be answered would be highly appreciated. RIDER: Marc S Sanders REPLY: Joe Amidon DATE: August 24, 1998 Well, here's my question. I recently acquired an 84 GS750EF. I am wondering exactly how does the rear suspension settings work. There is a knob with the numbers 1 to 4 on it and there is another knob with that says adjustable preload 1 to 5. I have messed with these settings but have noticed little difference. Any advice would be very helpful. RIDER: Lou Fontaine REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: August 24, 1998 I have a 1981 GS750EX and will be needing a new rear tire soon. The current tire is an tubed 18" 110/90. I noticed that the center of the tread pattern wore very quickly while the outer edges are worn very little. 99% of my riding is solo on curvy back roads and very seldom long straights. I see in the repair manual that the 1981 GS750E"L" model comes standard with a 130/90. Is it safe to assume that it has the "EX" has the same suspension as the "EL" and should fit the larger tire? Also, I've heard a wide variety of opinions on tire pressure. How is my tire pressure affecting the way the tire wears? Any suggestions on pressure, or tips on how to determine what pressure will help get the maximum mileage/performance out of either the original spec 110 or the larger 130? I'm happy to hear the GS site still has a good home and continue to find the information here a big help in keeping my GS up and running. RIDER: Mark Fontana REPLY: Billy Ricks DATE: July 20, 1998 I have a 1980 GS450e, what is the fork oil capacity? RIDER: Tim House REPLY: Jimmy Lishman
REMEMBER to use the right fork oil (SAE 15W). DATE: July 20, 1998 I have oil leaking out of the top of the front shocks. What steps are necessary to replace the seals? What oil weight and how much? Do I need to take the front wheel off? If so, how do I get it off? RIDER: James Jonathan Jones REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: July 13, 1998 I'm rebuilding a1979 GS550EN and want to know if there should be a dent on the left hand side of the swing arm (sprocket side) just behind the rear footrests or has the swing arm bean damaged? I hope you can help as I don't know any one around my area North East England with a bike to check with. RIDER: Alan Dodds REPLY: Zack Schultz DATE: July 13, 1998 I have a 1983GS1100E I don't have a book yet . I've tried to put air in the fork through the fitting on the side of the fork (checked w/ a tire gauge) no pressure I can't hear it leaking anywhere . Is there a trick? RIDER: Brian Underwood REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: June 27, 1998 I purchased my GS 1100 a year and a half ago with about 20,000 miles on it . I have been working on it to get it back into top condition. So far I've replaced standard items (tires, chain, battery and of course the reg./rec. unit) and added a Rifle fairing. The bike runs great but at high speed (around 90 or 100+) I start getting front end wobble. This does not occur in a straight line but during lane changes. It also gets a little squirrelly a lower speeds during hard cornering. I'm guessing that a fork brace might help with the front end wobble? Any suggestions would be appreciated, also recommendations on a fork brace. Thanks. RIDER: A. John Leone Jr. REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE: June 26, 1998 Could you or anyone tell me what grade of oil is specified for an air suspension model also, the quantity per fork and the easiest way of injecting. The bike is used mainly for touring on good roads. RIDER: Alan Dee REPLY: Billy Ricks DATE: June 26, 1998 Does anyone have any experience/recommendations with putting after market fork systems on the GS1100's. I'm thinking of maybe trying a Showa or Cerani inverted fork. I'm rebuilding my '82 1100G from the ground up with an eye toward a radical street rod. Any help would be appreciated. RIDER: Tony Agliata REPLY: Billy Ricks DATE: May 2, 1998 Does anybody know how to remove the disks in the top of the forks, there not threaded caps they are disks inserted about a half inch into the top of the fork. I have the GS750 shop manual which has a section on all the differences on the GS700, but they do not show how to remove these disks. RIDER: Mark Geiger REPLY: Zack Schultz DATE: April 16, 1998 Hi there, first of all just like to say " thank god for this site". I've gotten more info about my Suzi in the last two days here than I have from about a week at the local dealer !!!!. Anyhow, I'm wondering if someone can suggest what kind of shocks to replace my current worn out units on my GS 1100E ???. I'm sure it depends on what kind of riding I'm going to be doing but to date I haven't really had the thing on the road. I'm still in the repair and cleanup phase ( bike sat for 4 years outside !!) . I'm not on a suicide mission or anything so I won't be doing major launch's ( yeah right :) , and the wife will be on the back sometimes so were looking at about 400lbs total weight (hey I'm a big boy alright). Any suggestions would be appreciated. Oh, and by the way , reasonable $$$ might be the key word here, I'm spending my kids college money now as it is just getting this thing on the road :) Thanks in advance! RIDER: Mike Espie REPLY: Frank Perreault DATE:May 12, 1996 I'm trying to replace the fork seals on my '80 GS1000S. The problem lies in removing the allen head bolt at the bottom of the forks. The shop manual makes reference to a special tool that hold the fork innards in place so that the bolt does not just spin without loosening. Does anyone have a method of doing this without the special tool? On a related note, does anyone have a Clymer or Haynes manual for this bike that they would like to sell? Thanks a bunch!!! RIDER: Richard Desmond REPLY: V.Tolvanen |
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