Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

how do I check an ignition switch

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    how do I check an ignition switch

    I suspect the ignition switch may be my issue with my 550es. I have checked all the wires and have found nothing. how do I check to see if the ignition switch is bad. I believe when I hooked it up the key may have been in the on position. I don't know if that could have caused an issue with it or not.

    #2
    anyone

    anyone

    Comment


      #3
      maybe it is all gumped up in there.. a cheap give it a try i use is some electronics contact cleaner from radio shack. take it out and flood the crap,out of it and work the key around a bunch of times. Then blow it out real good with the air compressor and let it air dry a while..see if that frees up the contacts.
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment


        #4
        Can you check for continuity when you turn key to the "on" position. The key will close the circuit and allowing voltage to flow through switch. A simple test lamp or multitester with resistance will confirm that switch is actually switching by checking the wires that go into it.

        It is possible that switch is worn out, but seems strange that it died suddenly. Typically, I believe these switches wear out from use, is the key fit sloppy or is the mechanism hard to operate? If so, there is usually a "sweet" spot that will make it work. If this is the case then you may be on to something.

        Comment


          #5
          The 83 nighthawk i just sold had a sticky gear selection switch.. would show 2nd, 4th, 5th, and OD.. took the spary to it and cleaned it up and then all the gears showed.. The OEM contact grease they put in there gets all hard and balled up and dirt sticks to the contacts over the years as well. i would spray the stuff and blow it out first and then check wires if it doesnt solve the problem. you cant get a accurate picture of whats going on unless your sure its clean first.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by doug g View Post
            I suspect the ignition switch may be my issue with my 550es. I have checked all the wires and have found nothing. how do I check to see if the ignition switch is bad. I believe when I hooked it up the key may have been in the on position. I don't know if that could have caused an issue with it or not.

            disconnectg all the wires except the plugs for the handlebar switches and the ignition switch

            the input to the switch is red and is bridged to the Orange wire coming out of the switch in the run or on position.

            a continutiy test would show a faulty or dirty switch if you have power on the red that does not flow through to the orange wire when the key is in the On

            these do get dirty inside
            take care if you remove ths switch as there is a sporing inside if I recall correctly.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Calvin Blackmore View Post
              take care if you remove ths switch as there is a sporing inside if I recall correctly.
              Slightly misspelled, but yes it will go "SPROING" if you are not careful when you take it apart.

              .
              sigpic
              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
              Family Portrait
              Siblings and Spouses
              Mom's first ride
              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

              Comment


                #8
                Innerds








                Last edited by Guest; 03-10-2010, 11:20 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by waterman View Post
                  Can you check for continuity when you turn key to the "on" position. The key will close the circuit and allowing voltage to flow through switch. A simple test lamp or multitester with resistance will confirm that switch is actually switching by checking the wires that go into it.

                  It is possible that switch is worn out, but seems strange that it died suddenly. Typically, I believe these switches wear out from use, is the key fit sloppy or is the mechanism hard to operate? If so, there is usually a "sweet" spot that will make it work. If this is the case then you may be on to something.
                  That is what I would do, red in orange out.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Many times I have given this bit of advice.

                    First check out the sitch leads, and be sure there is something more needed.

                    If so, then dirt and/or poor contacts are very probable, and repairable.

                    Disassembling the switch is easy, and it is the best way to clean it.

                    First priority:

                    Get a large, clear, plastic bag. Make sure it has no holes...tape any you find.

                    Before attempting to even loosen anything on the switch, put the tools and the entire switch inside the bag, then reach inside with your hands and do all the work inside the bag.


                    This applies for ignition and all other Suzuki switches..... parts will still go "Sprooinnng"...but they will stay in the bag.
                    "If you scare people enough, they will demand removal of freedom. This is the path to tyranny."
                    Elon Musk Jan, 2022

                    Comment


                      #11
                      ok i have power in on red and power out on orange. What are the other two wires for then?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        wires

                        Colors are different depending on the model but the other two wires take power from the battery to the tail light when the switch is in the "Park" position.

                        That way everything else is switched off except the tail light, I guess in case you had to leave it on the side of a road on a dark night and wanted to leave a light on to help alert the thief and aid in locating the stranded bike. Something like that.

                        In a typical application moving the key to the far left is locked. One click to the right is off. One more is on, then park. (Key can be removed but the tail light is on.) One more to the right (on some bikes) and it's locked again with the tail light on for a locked/parked.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by doug g View Post
                          ok i have power in on red and power out on orange. What are the other two wires for then?
                          Parking light for one. I'd have to look at the schematic to remember what the other is for.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            seems I have an issue with power to the gray wire from the fuse box. I guess I need to trace the orange wire and see why I have no power being fed to the fuse box. I have power out on the orange wire but it is not making it to the fuse box. I will have to get out the test light and do some more investigating.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              There is a bullet connector under the tank somewhere for this. Also check all the plugs.
                              You're getting closer.
                              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X