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    Help! CV needle removal

    How do you remove the needle from the slide? There is a C-clip holding the plastic retainer on, but how do you remove the C-clip? Is there a special tool? I'm rejetting my carbs with a dynojet kit and this is the only step that is difficult...

    #2
    I got a long pair of needle nosed pliers.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      so there is no special tool? Just dive in and get the C-clip out? I dont want to damage anything...

      Also, what is a good starting point for the mixture screw? 2.5 turns out as the kit says?

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        #4
        snap ring pliers.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by 83gs1100g View Post
          snap ring pliers.
          snap ring pliers with some really long tips maybe...
          my secret tool is a pair of ummmm.
          hemostats

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by HAWK44 View Post
            so there is no special tool? Just dive in and get the C-clip out? I dont want to damage anything...

            Also, what is a good starting point for the mixture screw? 2.5 turns out as the kit says?
            so your installing a dynojet kit?
            if so...
            do as the instructions say.
            most problems come from people not following instructions or thinking they know more than dynojet does.

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              #7
              Get some cheapo needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight. I found a little set that fits prefectly in the holes. If you think they are hard to get out, wait until you try to put them back in.

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                #8
                I have a set of these from Sears and they work very well.

                82 GS850L - The Original http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ePics067-1.jpg
                81 GS1000L - Brown County Hooligan http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ivePics071.jpg
                83 GS1100L - Super Slab Machine http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DCP_1887.jpg
                06 KLR650 - "The Clown Bike" http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...nt=SERally.jpg
                AKA "Mr Awesome"

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                  #9
                  Get comfortable with removing those needles. Ya may have to do it again. Also pay very close attention to holding on to that retainer ring. Its tough to find if it goes flying across the garage.
                  Dont ask me how I know this..
                  sigpic

                  82 GS850
                  78 GS1000
                  04 HD Fatboy

                  ...............................____
                  .................________-|___\____
                  ..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well I bought a set of snap ring pliers at a local hardware store, and of course they are still too fat to fit into the tiny space inside the slide without pinching the plastic needle retainer and snapping it off. So I filed the heck out of the nose of the pliers in order to have just enough clearance to finally remove the C-clips. Swapped out for the dynojet needles and "attempted" to put them back in. You guys were right, the C-clips are even harder to put back in. But...they are all done now. (by the way, dont forget to hook up your throttle cable BEFORE putting the carb bank back on the bike...ahh first timer mistakes).

                    Now I just have to see how much tuning I have to do in order to get it running right again. Is a new carb sync absolutely necessary? It would probably be a good idea anyway...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The bike started! So far so good. With the exception of dry cranking for a minute, it fired up quick. Small amount of backfire at first but worked itself out. The only problem was a sticky throttle cable...when you wiggle it the bike revs, which is a problem I had in the past. Test drive is next !

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by HAWK44 View Post
                        Well I bought a set of snap ring pliers at a local hardware store, and of course they are still too fat to fit into the tiny space inside the slide without pinching the plastic needle retainer and snapping it off. So I filed the heck out of the nose of the pliers in order to have just enough clearance to finally remove the C-clips. Swapped out for the dynojet needles and "attempted" to put them back in. You guys were right, the C-clips are even harder to put back in. But...they are all done now. (by the way, dont forget to hook up your throttle cable BEFORE putting the carb bank back on the bike...ahh first timer mistakes).

                        Now I just have to see how much tuning I have to do in order to get it running right again. Is a new carb sync absolutely necessary? It would probably be a good idea anyway...
                        A word of advise....
                        Replace those chitty carb cover screws with hex or allen head. Ya shouldnt have to remove the carbs to remove the slides.

                        Glad to hear it fired up!
                        sigpic

                        82 GS850
                        78 GS1000
                        04 HD Fatboy

                        ...............................____
                        .................________-|___\____
                        ..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)___|____/_(O)|

                        Comment

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