Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

carb boots = rough idle?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    carb boots = rough idle?

    For some reason my 85' GS700e runs great when the engines cold but once it warms up it wants to die.

    When I say it wants to die, I mean it won't idle.

    I can keep it at an idle with the throttle, but if I don't give it gas it will die.
    Once I can tell the RPM's are going below the normal 1100-1200 I give it a tiny bit of gas, then it will go up to about 2k RPM then it floats for a couple seconds around 2k RPM. Then goes back down to idle and then slowly sputters and dies.
    I want to say that it's my carb boots, but why if that were the case why would it run fine when the engines cold?
    The carbs were just cleaned last fall and it was running well then.

    Also, I was told I need to replace the clutch push rod seal.. Is that something hard to do??

    Thanks GS Resources and happy easter!
    Last edited by Guest; 04-04-2010, 03:16 PM.

    #2
    Oh yeah and when I was riding yesterday she died and I couldn't get her started. Then I eventually got home and cleaned the air filter and she started up like there was nothing wrong. Now we're back to the same place..

    Comment


      #3
      The clutch pushrod seal is easy. Troubleshooting an idle problem on an unknown bike from afar isn't.

      What routine maintenance has been done?
      Valve adjustments?
      Carburetor cleaning? Synchronizing? Modifications?

      Yeah, probably something is leaking somewhere.
      Air or fuel leaking someplace it shouldn't.
      Something always leaks.


      Life is too short to ride an L.

      Comment


        #4
        sounds familiar...

        My 650G doesn't like to idle on her own. If I close off the choke once warm, when I stop I too have to pump the throttle. If I run w/choke a bit open then she's okay, but that is NOT optimal for a normally running bike!

        I suspect I've needed new carb boots for a few years, just not the funds to fix her proper. I would assume when your bike is cold you're starting with full choke on. That means running rich. Okay for warm-up, but not for longer durations.

        Some say once she is warm, and on center stand, spraying on some WD-40 or lube around the carbs will give you some indication. If she labors when warm w/choke closed, and a spray of lube in the carb area makes her rev up, then you're leaking air around the boots and running lean. (My problem). I think boots are about $20 each, so figure $100 per side to fix(?).

        I live at altitude (~7000 ft) so I've the added complication of knowing if the carbs were ever adjusted for altitude.

        Its not 'normal'. Sign something isn't adjusted right....

        Comment


          #5
          well the only real maintenance records I have say the valves were adjusted in 2003 at 4,911 miles(it's still currently only at 6k miles).

          Then a whole page of more maintenance, gaskets, etc..

          Then in 2007 the carbs were adjusted, replaced oil filter, plugs, etc..
          It says it recommends these things though.. chain, sprockets, clutch pushrod seal, and fork seal.

          I just bought the bike 7 months ago though, and I know it went to the shop to get the carbs cleaned and adjusted, oil changed, before I got it. I do know the fork seal still needs changed though, that's why I'm assuming the 2007 records are the most up to date.
          I can see two of the carb holders cracking though.

          I ordered 4 new carb boots and will get those replaced next week, then next will be the clutch pushrod seal and fork seal. Is there any easy way to add more oil to the front suspension?
          Last edited by Guest; 04-04-2010, 08:45 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            Yeah so I'm waiting for the carb boots in the mail and I was just looking at the air box side carb holders and I see that some of them got kind of torqued out of the airbox so they aren't seated with the air box. They seam to be in good condition though(unlike the engine side carb holders).
            So I'm still going to replace the carb boots and then I'm sure it will be running like a dream again.

            Comment


              #7
              Greetings and Salutations!!

              Hi Mr. motman,

              I must apologize to you. Here you are with 18 posts and I have yet to give you your "mega-welcome". In it you will find good, solid information on how to restore and maintain your motorcycle. Most of us do our own work. You'll find lots of "how to" guides with pictures on my website for most routine maintenance tasks. Granted, my bike is an 850, but the principles will be the same. For starters, see my guide on Air Intake Repair (a PDF file). Welcome to the forum.

              If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

              Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

              Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

              Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

              Thank you for your indulgence,

              BassCliff

              Comment


                #8
                Did you oil it?

                Originally posted by motman View Post
                Oh yeah and when I was riding yesterday she died and I couldn't get her started. Then I eventually got home and cleaned the air filter and she started up like there was nothing wrong. Now we're back to the same place..
                Stock foam air filter needs to be re-oiled after you clean it. Actually, mine was bone dry the first time I looked at it. Bought oil/cleaner kit from the stealer for like $12 or something.....

                Comment


                  #9
                  Alright so I got the parts and I'm ripping her apart. How do I get the air box out in my GS700e??

                  The airbox is like stuck in the frame. Do I have to take the carbs out before I can get the airbox out?

                  Thanks

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by motman View Post
                    Do I have to take the carbs out before I can get the airbox out?

                    Thanks
                    Yes, Sir.

                    Even then, some say it will not come out without hacking it out, removing the engine, ect..

                    I don't remember, but I do know it will not come out easily even after the carbs are out..

                    Maybe remove the intake flanges on the head and it might pull out.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by tejasmud View Post
                      Yes, Sir.

                      Even then, some say it will not come out without hacking it out, removing the engine, ect..

                      I don't remember, but I do know it will not come out easily even after the carbs are out..

                      Maybe remove the intake flanges on the head and it might pull out.
                      Oh, ok thank you sir! I was wondering why the bottom of it was so dirty..

                      Well as long as I can get the carbs out without getting the airbox out I'm happy.

                      I just read in BassCliff's link that the airbox comes out first.

                      Thanks man, I'll keep you guys updated!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by motman View Post
                        Oh, ok thank you sir! I was wondering why the bottom of it was so dirty..

                        Well as long as I can get the carbs out without getting the airbox out I'm happy.

                        I just read in BassCliff's link that the airbox comes out first.

                        Thanks man, I'll keep you guys updated!

                        If you remove the 2 bolts under the seat by the gas tank to the air box, and the one under the right side (possibly left) on the bottom of the box it will make removing the carbs easier though.

                        With old airbox boots and intake flanges it can be a struggle, and yes new ones make it much easier to work the carbs in or out, ect.......

                        But, pushing down and pulling up while pushing or tilting them forwards and backwards on the carbs to wiggle them out helps.

                        Also, once the carbs are down and out one side a slightly it is easier to undo the throttle and choke cable than trying to get to it with the carbs still in the boots.

                        All the while try not to bend up the clamps too much.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Ok great, I have a feeling the airbox side holders were replaced at some point or another in the last 10 years. They seam a lot more soft and rubbery, but I'm hoping I'm not mistaken and they crack while trying to get the carbs out. Anyways I just had to go run around town for some o-rings and now I have to go do the dirty.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I haven't heard anything about the shape of your fuel tank. These are old bikes. There have been a lot of years for rust and all sorts of stuff to accumulate in that tank. It will eventually find it's way into your carburetors. New intake boots are a good thing. A little dielectric grease on the insides of the boots, make it a lot easier to install the carburetors.
                            '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              The gas tank is pretty rusty, I cleaned it out today and dried it.

                              So I tried to start it and it will turn over but it won't start. It backfired once as I gave it some throttle and I gave up after that.

                              What is going on? Is the idle too low?

                              Why would it backfire?

                              I did notice a fuel leak in the tank petcock, the o-ring needs replaced so I ordered one of those.

                              Could that be why it backfired and isn't running? Because I could hear the gas tank was pressurized and releasing some air.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X