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    Fuel Treatment

    Ok, I found some fuel treatments online, but I am not sure what would be safe for a 28 year old engine. Also wondered if my only option was online or if I could pick it up at Wally World or Kmart. I guess I could try a local bike shop as well if I knew the best kind to get.

    What I want to do is keep the carbs clean and try and boost the performance.

    #2
    Im like Seafoam

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by gregr View Post
      Im like Seafoam

      No, I'm not like Seafoam. I like Seafoam LOL

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by gregr View Post
        No, I'm not like Seafoam. I like Seafoam LOL
        hahahaha!

        Comment


          #5
          Seafoam is the only fuel additive that seems to get any high marks at all. It will help keep your carbs clean, and is reputably the best fuel stabilizer for oxygenated fuels. Don't know about Wally world, but it's available at Advance Auto Parts - you probably have one of those near you.

          Comment


            #6
            No fuel treatment at all is needed. Just 87 octane petrol from the cheapest place you can find, and ride it like you stole it on a regular basis.

            If you just can't sleep at night without dumping in some sort of mouse milk, then the dose of Sea Foam recommended on the can at least won't hurt anything.
            1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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            Comment


              #7
              I'm with bwringer on this one. The BEST thing you can do is to apply fresh gasoline at regular intervals. (This means riding ... a LOT!!)

              I don't think there is anything you can add to the gas in the tank to give you any more reliable power. "Octane boosters" don't add a bit of power. In fact, higher octane does not add power. It actually reduces it. That's right, "premium" gas (high-octane) has fewer BTUs per gallon than "regular" (lower-octane) gas. How can something with fewer BTUs give you more power, you ask? Higher compression in the combustion chamber. Higher compression raises the temperature, which can ignite the mixture before the spark. Higher octane resists auto-combustion due to temperature increase, forcing it to wait for the spark. Higher-octane fuel also burns slower, which is why you have to advance the spark. You need to have combustion completed by a certain point in terms of crankshaft rotation, so you need to start it sooner. I am often amused by those who will simply advance their ignition timing or use "premium" gas to get more power. Used alone or just with each other, they will actually reduce power, until you raise the compression ratio.

              .
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              Comment


                #8
                go to the drag strip and buy a little of the lowest grade of race gas.

                95 octane is usually what they have, no stabilizer needed all winter in the better fuels.

                if our tanks were bigger heet would get the water out.

                lucas has a fuel treatment

                as does the stuff carrol Shelby is selling. Z max?
                SUZUKI , There is no substitute

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hi,

                  If I use anything, I use Sea Foam. I've been known to put a few ounces in a tank of gas once in a while. It's available at most places where auto stuff is sold. But I agree with Brian and Steve. If you start with clean carbs, maintain your engine (oil changes, valve adjustments, etc), ride enough, and keep fresh gas in a clean tank there is not much to worry about.

                  Mouse milk!



                  Thank you for your indulgence,

                  BassCliff

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I agree with Brian, Steve & Cliff that most additives sold here are "mouse milk" at best and more marketing BS than actual results. That being said I will run some Seafoam through once or twice a year although I really cannot tell if it helps or not. One product I can say works very well although it is extremely hard to find here in the states is this fuel injection cleaner from Wurth on page 04.161. I have also used the Wurth OL electrical contact cleaner and it also works extremely well. They only sell in the US through distributors to repair shops as far as I know. I lucked into some of the fuel injection cleaner a few years back and used it on my 850 after the initial start up of the season when the carbs were gunked up and after about 1/2 mile of maybe three cylinders firing properly it backfired like a cannon shot and then about tore the bars out of my hands. It ran great from that point on for the rest of the season. I doubt it would work on really dirty carbs but it sure flushed what was in mine from winter through.

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                    Comment


                      #11
                      Seafoam only folks. In a bike that may have been sitting for a while 1/3 to half a can in a couple of tanks full ought to clean things out until such times as a full strip and dip can be performed. As Steve and the guys always say, there is no substitute for stripping and dipping carbs along with new o-rings in the rebuild.

                      I drop a couple of caps full in each tank to keep things"sweet" and 1/2 can for stabilizer over winter. I truly believe it does work.

                      You can add it to the oil with no ill effects and I usually dump in 1/3 of a can about 500 to 1000 before an oil change. It really does a nice job of pulling out the sludge.

                      I don't think you can harm anything with it but I'm not sure of any other products.

                      Let us know what you find if you use it.

                      cheers,
                      spyug

                      Comment


                        #12
                        acetone works well
                        1978 GS1085.

                        Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Steve View Post
                          I'm with bwringer on this one. The BEST thing you can do is to apply fresh gasoline at regular intervals. (This means riding ... a LOT!!)

                          I don't think there is anything you can add to the gas in the tank to give you any more reliable power. "Octane boosters" don't add a bit of power. In fact, higher octane does not add power. It actually reduces it. That's right, "premium" gas (high-octane) has fewer BTUs per gallon than "regular" (lower-octane) gas. How can something with fewer BTUs give you more power, you ask? Higher compression in the combustion chamber. Higher compression raises the temperature, which can ignite the mixture before the spark. Higher octane resists auto-combustion due to temperature increase, forcing it to wait for the spark. Higher-octane fuel also burns slower, which is why you have to advance the spark. You need to have combustion completed by a certain point in terms of crankshaft rotation, so you need to start it sooner. I am often amused by those who will simply advance their ignition timing or use "premium" gas to get more power. Used alone or just with each other, they will actually reduce power, until you raise the compression ratio..
                          I understand the octane/BTU ratio, and agree with all of this. However, I would like to get your view on what happens when we throw ethanol into the mix. The reason I ask, is this.....most all gasoline now sold in Ontario has about 10% ethanol content. Like you, I have always used regular, for the same reasons you stated above. Last week, I noticed Shell gasoline here, has a 5% max ethanol content in their mid-grade (91 octane) , and offer zero ethanol in their premium 93 oct. gas.

                          Being just about on reserve, I filled up with their mid-grade (5% max ethanol) on a whim, and proceeded on a longish cruise. Burning through that tank, I got slightly over 46mpg.....I normally enjoy consistent 44 with mixed riding on mostly country roads, and around 40 if I ride in the company of a 'Busa mounted friend, with lots of romps to redline. Not bad with non-stock 36mm carbs, tuned slightly rich.
                          So, not sure what to make of it...I have since returned to the same station and now filled up with the premium, to see if the results are repeatable, or were simply due to a tailwind etc. on that occasion.

                          Oh ya, I like Seafoam too!
                          Tony.
                          '82 GS1100E



                          Originally posted by themess
                          Only in your own mind did you refute what I wrote.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            A little Techron or Seafoam in the gas tank helps break up minor varnish in the fuel system which can develop during storage, assuming the fuel system is generally clean and the various O-rings are fresh and soft. I don't recommend anything in the oil though. If there is sludge in the engine, pull the sump cover and maybe the clutch cover, and clean it out. Seafoam is a solvent and will thin the oil if used in quantity sufficient to do any real cleaning. No thanks.
                            Ed

                            To measure is to know.

                            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Mysuzyq View Post
                              I understand the octane/BTU ratio, and agree with all of this. However, I would like to get your view on what happens when we throw ethanol into the mix. The reason I ask, is this.....most all gasoline now sold in Ontario has about 10% ethanol content. Like you, I have always used regular, for the same reasons you stated above. Last week, I noticed Shell gasoline here, has a 5% max ethanol content in their mid-grade (91 octane) , and offer zero ethanol in their premium 93 oct. gas.

                              Being just about on reserve, I filled up with their mid-grade (5% max ethanol) on a whim, and proceeded on a longish cruise. Burning through that tank, I got slightly over 46mpg.....I normally enjoy consistent 44 with mixed riding on mostly country roads, and around 40 if I ride in the company of a 'Busa mounted friend, with lots of romps to redline. Not bad with non-stock 36mm carbs, tuned slightly rich.
                              So, not sure what to make of it...I have since returned to the same station and now filled up with the premium, to see if the results are repeatable, or were simply due to a tailwind etc. on that occasion.

                              Oh ya, I like Seafoam too!
                              Tony.
                              In theory, it is possible to get better mileage with 100% gasoline compared to 90/10 gas alcohol mix since gas has higher BTU than alcohol. Will it happen in real life, maybe, who knows. Comparing mileage is difficult since it is nearly impossible to duplicate all driving conditions identically from tank to tank. Likewise, will it pay for the difference in price between cheap, regular vs higher priced premium gas, not hardly in my neighborhood.

                              With that being said, I always monitor my mileage and I do tend to follow the same routine with my bike. Since I really only use my bike for commuting and errands, I have noticed that my mileage stays fairly consistent at 41 mpg, ranging from 38 to 44. This is always on the cheap 10% alcohol stuff. I could try high test, but don't really think my mileage will change enough to make any significant difference.

                              I will agree with others, best prescription for healthy motor is to run it hard and often. Let me tell you a little story. My brother bought his GS1000G brand new in 1980, rides it throughout summer, puts away for winter with Stabil if he remembers. I was the first person to ever remove his carbs last year. I drove it to my garage, disassembled, and cleaned them. Other than about a fourth teaspoon of rusty sediment in bowl valve on #1 carb, carbs looked surprisingly good. All of the small fuel passageways were clear and not too terribly varnished. Jets were clear and only a small amount of crud in bowls.

                              I think the fact that he over oiled the air filter made up for the leanness he had from the leaking boot orings and non sealing airbox. I replaced orings, synchronized, and set fuel levels and adjusted mixture screws, after drilling out plugs of course. Fixed airbox and new spark plugs,then drove bike back to him, put in his garage and waited. About two weeks later, heard him telling a friend about how much nicer his bike runs since I had tuned it up for him.

                              I firmly believe the best thing for a motor is to run it often, rest and lack of use destroys motorcycles.

                              Comment

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