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first real ride and problems, HELP!

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    first real ride and problems, HELP!

    Went for a 30 minute ride this afternoon and the first thing I noticed was in all gears if I hammered on it or got even close to it, the bike would just rev up, but then would slip back in to gear when I let off and would continue accelerating when I rode normally. It seems that the last 10 minutes or so that I rode it was riding normal when I floored it.

    I parked it and let it sit for about 1.5 hours, went back out and there was a steady drip of gas coming from the hose that connects to the air box (not the box that has the filter but the one that is connected to the carbs), enough to leave a puddle about 2 X 1 feet! Took it for another ride and it was slipping when full or close to full throttle.




    #2
    Just checked to see if it had leaked at all after the second ride. only a very small puddle about the size of the bottom of a coffee mug and was not dripping when I went out there.

    Comment


      #3
      Hi,

      Your clutch is slipping and you probably have gas in your crankcase oil now. Not good. Do not ride your bike until you are certain that you have 100% oil in your crankcase and there is no gasoline in there diluting your oil.

      You clutch may just need some adjustment. Or your clutch plates may just need to be cleaned up, fibers roughed up a bit. You may need new clutch springs. You won't know until you've changed your oil and made some adjustments. If the adjustments don't work you'll have to open up your clutch and inspect the plates and springs. Your manual will have wear specifications. There's a little clutch information on my website that will give you an idea of what you're looking at. There is information about leaking carbs too. Keep us informed.

      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

      Comment


        #4
        Please tell us what kind of maintenance you have performed on the bike?
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

        Comment


          #5
          Its my 83 650g. I changed the oil and plugs, sprayed carb cleaner in carbs, seafoamed, and have been messing with the clutch cable lately. So I did NOTHING major to it.

          I figured the clutch was just slipping as it is not working %100 perfect, but the gas puddle was beyond me.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
            Hi,

            Your clutch is slipping and you probably have gas in your crankcase oil now. Not good. Do not ride your bike until you are certain that you have 100% oil in your crankcase and there is no gasoline in there diluting your oil.

            BassCliff
            How does this happen? what caused it? what is the problem and the solution?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by suzu650 View Post
              How does this happen? what caused it? what is the problem and the solution?
              Hi,

              The causes for leaky carbs are discussed on my website. No need to retype them here. Have you properly cleaned and rebuilt your carbs?



              Thank you for your indulgence,

              BassCliff

              Comment


                #8
                clutch

                Originally posted by suzu650 View Post
                How does this happen? what caused it? what is the problem and the solution?
                The plates are subject to getting worn down and may no longer be thick enough to get a good grip. When removed there is a service limit and the thickness of each "driven" plate can be measured. But it's more likely that the springs themselves are getting old. It's very common; after 20 years of being compressed they just get a tiny bit shorter and don't have enough power in them any more to hold the plates tightly together. There is also a service limit on the spring length. Both limits are in a common shop or service manual.

                In either case, the solution is replacement. Drain the oil...you have to do that anyway to get to the clutch...and find out why your petcock is leaking gas. (there is a bad 0-ring or diaphragm inside the petcock. ) Then find out why that gas is getting into the airbox. You most likely have bad o-rings in the fuel inlet float valves. Replace all the carb o-rings while you're at it (See cycle o-rings in Cliff's mega welcome) and then replace the oil with fresh oil.

                Easy.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
                  Hi,

                  The causes for leaky carbs are discussed on my website. No need to retype them here. Have you properly cleaned and rebuilt your carbs?



                  Thank you for your indulgence,

                  BassCliff
                  I have not. I could take them off and give them a nice dip, but I would not know where to begin with rebuilding them. From the sounds of your site, I am going to have to bring my bike to a shop as I am at school with VERY limited tools. What a pain and huge waste of $$$$$$

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by suzu650 View Post
                    I have not. I could take them off and give them a nice dip, but I would not know where to begin with rebuilding them. From the sounds of your site, I am going to have to bring my bike to a shop as I am at school with VERY limited tools. What a pain and huge waste of $$$$$$
                    It sounds daunting but its not. I just cleaned out a Keihin flatslide carb that had been sitting in 1+ year old gas (main jet was completely clogged so it wouldn't run period), and it was my first. Working deliberately, it probably took 2 hours from when the first bolt came off to when the last went in. Very easy. If you have a diagram (found on BikeCliff's site) then you'll know what to look for. Just clean out the bowls, jets, and check float heights. The only tools I used were phillips and flathead screwdrivers, plus a little carb cleaner, and a set of calipers for the float height. I'm about to tackle my Mikunis this week, idk how different they will be than the more modern Keihin that I just did, but the principles are the same, and I can tell you, not having done this before, its pretty easy. Just takes patience...

                    (and I'm in school right now too...not an excuse! )

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Had the bike been sitting for a very long time before this latest ride? Did the clutch stop slipping near the end of the ride when the bike was fully warmed up?
                      Don't get discouraged - at least you are riding! The problem of the gas leak is that your fuel petcock (shutoff) is letting gas go to the carbs after the engine has stopped running - there is a vacuum diaphragm in the petcock that is supposed to shut this off when there is no vacuum (vaccum is produced when engine is turning). Could the petcock lever have been in the wrong position, like Prime? That would let gas through at all times. If it was on On, that would mean the diaphragm mechanism was stuck open.

                      How does the bike run normally? Pretty good, no roughness? If it ran fine that would probably mean the carbs are, well, at least clean enough to run!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by TitanNeil View Post
                        Had the bike been sitting for a very long time before this latest ride? Did the clutch stop slipping near the end of the ride when the bike was fully warmed up?
                        Don't get discouraged - at least you are riding! The problem of the gas leak is that your fuel petcock (shutoff) is letting gas go to the carbs after the engine has stopped running - there is a vacuum diaphragm in the petcock that is supposed to shut this off when there is no vacuum (vaccum is produced when engine is turning). Could the petcock lever have been in the wrong position, like Prime? That would let gas through at all times. If it was on On, that would mean the diaphragm mechanism was stuck open.

                        How does the bike run normally? Pretty good, no roughness? If it ran fine that would probably mean the carbs are, well, at least clean enough to run!
                        Bike sat for about 1.5 hours between rides. The first ride the biked seemed to stop slipping when fully warm, but not during the secong ride.

                        I dont know how it runs normally, I got it just a few months ago and just got my license, so this was the first ride

                        The petcock lever was in the ON position.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          also, i thought it maybe sounded like the right exhaust pipe was making a little different sound then the left? like a little popping maybe? ..but i could also be completely losing my mind.
                          Last edited by Guest; 04-20-2010, 10:55 PM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by suzu650 View Post
                            I have not. I could take them off and give them a nice dip, but I would not know where to begin with rebuilding them. From the sounds of your site, I am going to have to bring my bike to a shop as I am at school with VERY limited tools. What a pain and huge waste of $$$$$$
                            Hi,

                            You are riding a motorcycle that's nearly 30 years old. It's going to need some TLC to restore it to its former reliable condition. There's a link to the Carb Rebuild Series on the homepage of GSR and a copy on my website. Get an inexpensive set of carb O-rings from Robert Barr, some carb dip, and have a go at it. It's all in your "mega-welcome". Keep us informed.

                            Thank you for your indulgence,

                            BassCliff

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Suzu 650 I know how you feel regarding the carb rebuild, I was intimidated at first too, but take my word for it as a mechanic (auto) of some year's experience, looked at individually, motorcycle carbs are SIMPLE compared to an automotive one.
                              The only sort of PITA part, is getting them out to rebuild. ( my old GN400 was great in this regard, it was a single, and I could actually do a halfway carb cleaning by the side of the road, without even removing the carb, good enough to get me home)
                              Too bad the GS is an inline 4 (but not too bad)

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