Stator /RR upgrade help. 78GS1000E

[salty_monk]

I was doing ok till I found Two yellows And Two blue whites from the stator....

Anyone tell me which wires come direct from from the stator? are the yellow and blue white split into two closer to the stator than shown in my pic.
Also which is the live lead? Presume it's the red/red white?? Do I need to route both of these to the new RR + term?







Full size pics here: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/salty_monk/

[TheCafeKid]

The 78 1000, like the 77 750 had a separate Reg from Rectifier I do believe. If so, I will take a look at my diagram again when I get home, and tell ya what I did... I cant remember off the top of my head, but it was sorta confusing, and it took me a while to figure out WTF was going on, even with the damn diagram in front of me cause I kept forgetting the Regulator was on the bottom of the battery box. If you've replaced it, then I would think that the extras are now useless, since you've probably wired it all into one unit...

[salty_monk]

The wiring loom etc on this bike is the best I've ever seen on a GS so everything is bone stock.....

It is the split R - R & I am replacing with a FH010 Mosfet unit ($37 shipped - nice )

Also have a scorpion AGM battery on the way.

I want to test the stator so I can work out if it's fried & I also need another one of those... I have a feeling (from the way the meter behaves when running the bike) that one of the stator legs has gone to ground. I suspect the R - R is still working well but it's going to get upgraded anyway as I intend to fit some heated grips on the bike in time for next winter!

Dan

[Nessism]

Hey Dan,

The wires leaving the stator are inside a woven wire sheath exiting the starter cavity, there will be three if the stator is stock. I advocate bypassing the factory wiring completely and wiring the stator direct to the new R/R. Put a fuse in line with the positve going to the battery and make sure you have good grounds. Let me know if you need help.

[salty_monk]

Ed,

Unfortunately there are 5 wires coming out of that sheaf instead of 3 wires! The yellow & the blue white are doubled up. I can see that this is because of the split RR but what I'm trying to find out most is:

1. If those 2 yellows & 2 blue/whites are to all purposes the same wire (i.e. they both come direct from the stator via some kind of split down in the sheath or something different. Until I've worked out how to test them I don't really want to cut the sheath open or disturb the stator as it might still be good.

2. What to do with the red & red/white when I disconnect them. Last time on the later model Suzuki RR I put both a return direct to Battery & one into the Red of the existing loom. I was planning to do the same on this one but I'm also happy to ignore that red & red/white completely & run one wire direct to Battery +ve if that will not cause any other problems within the stock loom.

P.s. If you've viewed this before press ctrl F5 & the diags will come back facing the right way....

[Matchless]

Dan,
I have posted a colour diagram fro the 1980 GS in this part of the forum. It shows the mod on removing the wires to the lights from the stator. Compare your old wiring diagram with that one and it will make sense.
I think you will need to remove the double wire coming from the stator. I guess they are just joined together in the sheath and will not need the stator to be pulled.

[TheCafeKid]

They are joined with a crimp IIRC..

[salty_monk]

ok great - that's all I need for now then... at least then i can see if any of the legs have shorted out so I can order one if necessary. A simple "open circuit" test using an Ohm meter. If it passes that I might then measure it's output I guess.

The White Red appears to be the wire that goes up to the handlbar switch & then comes back down as a White/green which leads straight to the stator. I do have the switch to turn off the headlight on this bike... (which reminds me that I should have left the headlight "on" when seeing if the bike was charging properly with a voltmeter at the battery - not sure I did actually).

Seems to me I might as well bypass that, leave the W/R disconnected & connect the W/G direct to new RR. The Red can then either be left disconnected totally with a new +ve going direct to battery via a 20amp fuse or be connected into the RR as well as the new +ve.

Can anyone tell me that my assumptions are wrong? (I can read these diag's but I'm definitely not the best!)

Dan

[chef1366]

Tie the two doubled up wires together and hook straight to the R/R. Then one hot to the battery and one to the fuse block. As for the ground wire ask Jim and he'll give you an easy step by step paper of five-hundred words or more to help you along.

[posplayr]

Tie the two doubled up wires together and hook straight to the R/R. Then one hot to the battery and one to the fuse block. As for the ground wire ask Jim and he'll give you an easy step by step paper of five-hundred words or more to help you along.

500 words is only a short abstract

[chef1366]

500 words is only a short abstract

Got me!
If you bypass the headlight switch don't turn off the light when running.

[salty_monk]

I should think with the new Mosfet RR it is capable of managing the extra power generated by that leg whether the headlight has it's 55w draining on it or not won't it??

Dan

[salty_monk]

I pulled the connections & used an OHM meter to test the connections... I got zero (0.00) resistance (not open circuit) on every single connection so I guess that Stator is really fried right??

Anyone have a decent source for replacement?

Dan