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    Help on chain and sprocket replacement

    Hello Everyone,

    I could use some advice on an upcoming chain and sprocket replacement for an ’81 GS550T as this is the first time I’ve had to do this. I would like to keep the current gearing which I assume is stock (15 front, 50 rear). I believe the original chain was 530 based on the parts explosions at Dennis Kirk but it’s not very clear. The Suzuki shop manual lists the chain as Daido D.I.D. 50HDL or Takasago RK50SHO with 110 links. Can anyone confirm that this will be a direct swap with the 530 chain? I’m currently looking to get an O or X-ring chain with a clip on master link (for ease of maintenance), and I would appreciate any recommendations for the chain or sprockets.

    A few other more general questions:
    -Do I need to replace the lockwasher on the front sprocket or the locking tabs on the rear sprocket?
    -Are there any critical torque specs? The big nut on the front sprocket was barely tight (held on primarily by the metal tab on the washer) when disassembling everything...
    -Are there any required chemicals (grease, loctite, etc) or other parts that I haven't mentioned?
    -Should I be performing any additional maintenance at the same time?

    As always, I appreciate any help.
    -Jack

    #2
    Originally posted by teh_engr View Post
    Hello Everyone,

    I could use some advice on an upcoming chain and sprocket replacement for an ’81 GS550T as this is the first time I’ve had to do this. I would like to keep the current gearing which I assume is stock (15 front, 50 rear). I believe the original chain was 530 based on the parts explosions at Dennis Kirk but it’s not very clear. The Suzuki shop manual lists the chain as Daido D.I.D. 50HDL or Takasago RK50SHO with 110 links. Can anyone confirm that this will be a direct swap with the 530 chain? I’m currently looking to get an O or X-ring chain with a clip on master link (for ease of maintenance), and I would appreciate any recommendations for the chain or sprockets.

    A few other more general questions:
    -Do I need to replace the lockwasher on the front sprocket or the locking tabs on the rear sprocket?
    -Are there any critical torque specs? The big nut on the front sprocket was barely tight (held on primarily by the metal tab on the washer) when disassembling everything...
    -Are there any required chemicals (grease, loctite, etc) or other parts that I haven't mentioned?
    -Should I be performing any additional maintenance at the same time?

    As always, I appreciate any help.
    -Jack
    Well Jack the chain on a 550 is a 530 type chain. I have just put an X-ring chain on mine and it just fits as it is quite a wide chain. The chain I have used has larger heads on the rivets going through the sideplates. But it does fit. The "O" ring chain might be better for clearance and peace of mind.

    Z1 is probably the best and cheapest supplier with good delivery time for the chain and sprockets.

    The lockwasher depends on the condition it is in. It has grooves on the inner edge to fit in the splines of the output shaft so these need to be in good condition. The outside part of the washer that is bent onto the flat of the nut can be reused if in good condition also. If one side is buggered then the other side can be bent down onto the nut flats.

    The torque on the driveshaft nut is 29 to 43 lb/ft.

    Comment


      #3
      I put an RK X-ring chain on both of my old 550's and they fit just fine. As far as the lock washers go, they will most likely be fine to reuse but no guarantee on that.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #4
        +1 on Z1Enterprises. I prefer to call them and talk to a person, they can steer you right every time, including what the stock tooth and link numbers are. And they offer more things than the show on their web site, I learned that years ago.
        I have never had to replace the washer or any tabs on the rear, I just rebend them carefully.
        When you install the link, be sure and install it in the correct orientation. The closed side goes in the direction of rotation. If you install it backwards it could very easily fly off, with unpleasant results. And if you don't already have a spare link, order one of those while you are ordering the chain and sprockets. Justin Case.
        And be prepared for a lot of gunk around the countershaft sprocket. Just scoop it out as best you can.

        The only other thing you need is some chain lube if you don't have any. A very popular one is the Maxima Chain Wax, runs around $10 for the large can.

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