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I picked up a WJ fairing and complete set of bags & trunk for cheap to put onto my new to me '81 GS1000G. They were off an '81 Wing, so the bracket was a no-go. Other than that, they are in decent shape.
Seeing as how the wiring was almost 30 years old, I decided to rehab it as well as make some modifications for modernization while I'm waiting for the bike to get here. The project is not completed yet, but I wanted to get a start on writing it up here, and will add to the thread as I make progress. I will try to note where I got stuff in the event anyone wants to try this in the future.
My goals were as follows:
I do a lot of 12V wiring projects, and have invested in good automotive quality (SXL) wire. I buy wire at J&M Products:
I also use this place for relays, fuse blocks, and Weatherpack connectors:
The stuff you get at parts stores does not hold up well under mobile (heat) use. I also keep a lot of Weatherpack (sealed) connectors on hand, since crimp/butt connectors tend to fail after exposure to the elements.
I had added an HID headlight to my Concours & really liked it. What I liked even more was that the kit came with two bulbs & ballasts, and the same H4 bulb fit the Vetter housing. All I needed was a $13 wiring harness. I got the HID kit at www.vvme.com, and the bulbs are 5000K. One note- whre I mounted the ballast was too far back, and I had to extend the wiring to the bulb.
I'm using 2" red Cyberdyne digital gauges to match the gear position indicator. I couldn't find all of the gauges I wanted in a similar style as the ones on the GS100G. The gauges are still on order due to one being on back order. The gauges will mount on 5.125" diameter aluminum plates that will screw onto the speaker openings.
The Cyberdyne gauges use a wire to dim them for night driving. Since the GS has lights on all of the time, I'm adding a photocell (found it on ebay in England) that will work in conjunction with a relay to power the gauge illumination circuit at night. Same principle as automatic headlights.
There will also be a 5" aluminum channel that will attach to the radio portion of the Cycle Sound unit. It will hold my GPS/audio unit and there is enough room there for another 2" gauge.
When I took the fairing apart, I noticed the headlamp housing was rusted away on the bottom. I found a new Bosch H4 housing here:
The 9-pin Vetter connector was broken, so I bought a new one here (they sell a lot of WJ parts):
The pins are fairly small, and being a more power! type of guy, I decided to redo the power and ground for the fairing. The entire fairing grounded on a small black wire. I've revised it to bring in power from the battery via a heavier gauge (12) wire, and this feeds a relay switched by the lighting circuit. Likewise, a heavier gauge (12) ground wire was added. I run a similar setup on the Concours. I used some 1/4-20 stainless studs to convey the power/ground through the side of the fairing into the left pocket.
I added a 4 gang fuse block, with circuits for a clock (constant feed), gauges, power outlet, and HID (switched feed).
The dual power outlet was found at O'Reilly auto parts. It's sealed and has rubber caps for the outlets when not in use. I use this to power/charge my Archos GPS/Audio unit when I ride.
My Cycle Sound housing is of no use to me since I listen to audio via Bluetooth stereo in my helmet via the Archos. Where the speakers used to be, I'm adding the following gauges:
1. Oil pressure
2. Oil temperature
3. Voltmeter
4. Air temperature
I have an extra feed for a clock if I want to add one later. My Archos has a clock on it, so I decided against adding one for now.
This project entailed several days of wiring work. It's very tedious, but I've found attention to detail avoids electrical failures later on. I crimp & solder all of my terminals, and as stated above, I like sealed connectors when possible.
Here are some pictures of my progress:
Any project needs a good diagram or two:
The old Vetter wiring:
The bucket for the headlamp had to have the rear hole enlarged for the longer HID bulb to fit:
I found one of the well nuts (5/16-18) that holds the bucket in place was broken, so I replaced it with a new one. I used some contact cement to set it.
Here's the HID ballast:
Completed gauge harness:
Cycle Sound unit with harness inside:
Lots o' spaghetti!
Wiring from fairing to Cyclesound unit (the GPS power cord will also feed through here once I get it):
Completed setup in left pocket:
I'll post the trunk pics & details in my next post to break this up a little.
Seeing as how the wiring was almost 30 years old, I decided to rehab it as well as make some modifications for modernization while I'm waiting for the bike to get here. The project is not completed yet, but I wanted to get a start on writing it up here, and will add to the thread as I make progress. I will try to note where I got stuff in the event anyone wants to try this in the future.
My goals were as follows:
- Replace 30 year old wiring with modern automotive grade (SXL) wire.
- Add HID headlamp.
- Add fuse panel.
- Add power outlet for GPS power.
- Add gauges and mount for GPS/audio system.
- Add LED bulbs to trunk with wig wag flasher.
- Reseal trunk (weatherstrip).
I do a lot of 12V wiring projects, and have invested in good automotive quality (SXL) wire. I buy wire at J&M Products:
I also use this place for relays, fuse blocks, and Weatherpack connectors:
The stuff you get at parts stores does not hold up well under mobile (heat) use. I also keep a lot of Weatherpack (sealed) connectors on hand, since crimp/butt connectors tend to fail after exposure to the elements.
I had added an HID headlight to my Concours & really liked it. What I liked even more was that the kit came with two bulbs & ballasts, and the same H4 bulb fit the Vetter housing. All I needed was a $13 wiring harness. I got the HID kit at www.vvme.com, and the bulbs are 5000K. One note- whre I mounted the ballast was too far back, and I had to extend the wiring to the bulb.
I'm using 2" red Cyberdyne digital gauges to match the gear position indicator. I couldn't find all of the gauges I wanted in a similar style as the ones on the GS100G. The gauges are still on order due to one being on back order. The gauges will mount on 5.125" diameter aluminum plates that will screw onto the speaker openings.
The Cyberdyne gauges use a wire to dim them for night driving. Since the GS has lights on all of the time, I'm adding a photocell (found it on ebay in England) that will work in conjunction with a relay to power the gauge illumination circuit at night. Same principle as automatic headlights.
There will also be a 5" aluminum channel that will attach to the radio portion of the Cycle Sound unit. It will hold my GPS/audio unit and there is enough room there for another 2" gauge.
When I took the fairing apart, I noticed the headlamp housing was rusted away on the bottom. I found a new Bosch H4 housing here:
The 9-pin Vetter connector was broken, so I bought a new one here (they sell a lot of WJ parts):
The pins are fairly small, and being a more power! type of guy, I decided to redo the power and ground for the fairing. The entire fairing grounded on a small black wire. I've revised it to bring in power from the battery via a heavier gauge (12) wire, and this feeds a relay switched by the lighting circuit. Likewise, a heavier gauge (12) ground wire was added. I run a similar setup on the Concours. I used some 1/4-20 stainless studs to convey the power/ground through the side of the fairing into the left pocket.
I added a 4 gang fuse block, with circuits for a clock (constant feed), gauges, power outlet, and HID (switched feed).
The dual power outlet was found at O'Reilly auto parts. It's sealed and has rubber caps for the outlets when not in use. I use this to power/charge my Archos GPS/Audio unit when I ride.
My Cycle Sound housing is of no use to me since I listen to audio via Bluetooth stereo in my helmet via the Archos. Where the speakers used to be, I'm adding the following gauges:
1. Oil pressure
2. Oil temperature
3. Voltmeter
4. Air temperature
I have an extra feed for a clock if I want to add one later. My Archos has a clock on it, so I decided against adding one for now.
This project entailed several days of wiring work. It's very tedious, but I've found attention to detail avoids electrical failures later on. I crimp & solder all of my terminals, and as stated above, I like sealed connectors when possible.
Here are some pictures of my progress:
Any project needs a good diagram or two:
The old Vetter wiring:
The bucket for the headlamp had to have the rear hole enlarged for the longer HID bulb to fit:
I found one of the well nuts (5/16-18) that holds the bucket in place was broken, so I replaced it with a new one. I used some contact cement to set it.
Here's the HID ballast:
Completed gauge harness:
Cycle Sound unit with harness inside:
Lots o' spaghetti!
Wiring from fairing to Cyclesound unit (the GPS power cord will also feed through here once I get it):
Completed setup in left pocket:
I'll post the trunk pics & details in my next post to break this up a little.
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