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79 425e drain plug crack

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    79 425e drain plug crack

    Hello,

    My oil pan (crankcase?) has a hair line crack extending out from the oil drain plug threads. I have been able to seal the bolt in fairly well with 5 layers of Teflon on the threads of the bolt, but would like to hear some options for fixing it more permanently.

    Fill the split in with JB weld? Have it professionally welded and the crush-washer surface remachined and threads retapped? How much would a good used pan or case be?

    Even though it has not leaked since last nights 5 layers of teflon...the bike is running top and has not been abused, so I would also like options of fixing it right.

    The crazy thing is that when I bought the bike the drain bolt was not leaking and only after I removed it (previous owner had it on crazy too-tight) and reinstalled it with the factory crush washer did it begin to leak.

    Thank you!
    Last edited by Guest; 06-11-2011, 03:43 PM.

    #2
    OUCH, the 425 doesn't have a separate oil pan. If you can find some one to weld it go ahead and try.. DIsconnect all of the electrical when doing the welding. Otherwise start looking for another engine

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      #3
      What about getting it 'time certed?'

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        #4
        Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1 View Post
        OUCH, the 425 doesn't have a separate oil pan. If you can find some one to weld it go ahead and try.. DIsconnect all of the electrical when doing the welding. Otherwise start looking for another engine
        Found a very reputable welder who will TIG it for $40...doesn't even have to have the engine removed if I let him flip the bike over with a forklift.

        Originally posted by Suzuki mad View Post
        What about getting it 'time certed?'
        huh?

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          #5
          Remember to drain the oil, take the battery out & tank off first (hey smarter people than me have forgotten stupidly obvious things I am sure).

          A time-sert is like a helicoil, except machined from a single piece of metal and is designed to go into an over-sized hole to replace mangled thread. Here is a picture of both.



          As there is a crack in the casing i am going to take a shot and guess that a time-sert won't cut it as the crack extends far beyond the edge of where the time-sert goes. Also it may pay for you to cut a light v-groove in where the hairline crack is to expose as much fresh aluminium as possible and also clean the fracture up as much as humanly possible to minimise the risk of contaminating the welds.

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            #6
            The welder did such a fantastic job I did not even have to tap or surface. No leaks and cheap! Only had to remove the motor...

            Donīt overtighten the drain plug!!

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