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Steering stem locknut help?

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    Steering stem locknut help?

    Putting the front end back on my '78 Yamaha DT175E. There are locknuts to be employed here, but until my manual arrives I have no instructions. Pretty self-explanatory, or any tricks I should know?

    #2
    If its like my Yammy, then there are two rings. You do exactly as any other bike...snug down inner ring and test the feel..not excessively tight but not all floppy either. Just as it starts to get a hint of getting sticky when you move the bars is just about right. Then you be sure inner ring doesnt move and you jam outer ring to the inner ring.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
      If its like my Yammy, then there are two rings. You do exactly as any other bike...snug down inner ring and test the feel..not excessively tight but not all floppy either. Just as it starts to get a hint of getting sticky when you move the bars is just about right. Then you be sure inner ring doesnt move and you jam outer ring to the inner ring.
      Sounds pretty simple. Thanks!

      Comment


        #4
        Should be smooth, not any wiggle when you yank the forks around..but not "tight" youll know when you feel it a bit as you test the swiveling action. Over tighten it a bit and feel how it has "resistance" as you move the bars...then loosen it up and jiggle the tripple tree and you see that its sloppy and you can hear / feel its loose. Then get somewhere just tight but yet smooth...youll see what I mean.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

        Comment


          #5
          I am assuming that the front end is up off the ground as youre doing this...yes? Makes it much easier.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
            I am assuming that the front end is up off the ground as youre doing this...yes? Makes it much easier.
            The entire bike is in pieces, so this won't be a problem!

            Comment


              #7
              this should give you an idea, it is a quote from suzukiownersclub............

              There's an important distinction between ball bearings and tapers. Tapers DON'T require pre-loading like the balls, so ignore the manual and go by feel. I do it the following way:

              Lightly install as per the above pic
              Tighten the bearing 'quite tight' with a C spanner
              Work the yoke left and right. You'll probably feel it get (a bit) lighter to turn. This is good It's getting slacker because the bearing is seating the race in the frame.
              Loosen the bearing right off until you can feel play in the yoke assembly
              Tighten a little bit until there's no play (the nut will be far less tight than that required for balls). That's it. No pre-loading is required. All you're trying to do is make sure the taper bearings are in light contact with their races with no play.
              1978 GS1085.

              Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

              Comment


                #8
                What type of bearings does it have...he didnt state that fact.
                MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                  What type of bearings does it have...he didnt state that fact.
                  I bought some rollers at Agemax's suggestion.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well there ya go...got a viewpoint from both angles!!!!
                    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      So here's how it went down.

                      There was only one locknut, which caused a bit of confusion because I have two bikes in pieces here and it's hard to tell what goes with what bike. Turned out a big problem was the seals included with the tapered bearings I bought. When I used the bottom seal the whole assembly wouldn't fit together. Using an OEM seal on the bottom fixed that.

                      Put everything together and snugged the locknut down. Then I fitted the top triple and snugged that in. Made sure everything was gliding smoothly and then loosened everything to go back and tighten again.

                      Things seem smooth, but as this is only a test fitting I'll wait until final once-over to really make sure everything is to spec.

                      Thanks for the help! On to the forks/ears/headlight and fitting the wheels.

                      Comment

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