Engine oil

[Anonymous]

My Suzuki mechanic says not to use regular motor oil as the detergents that are added to it will ruin the engine. Is this true?

[Jeff Tate]

What does your mechanic consider "regular" motor oil? If it's 99 cent Pennzoil,Valvoline,etc. It won't ruin your engine, but it won't hold up very long in your tranny. Everyone HAD to use it 30 plus years ago,(Gee, guess how old I am now) but you just changed the oil more often then. If you use a motorcycle specific oil which ranges from "sheesh! to "OH MY GOD!!" a quart , it will last longer and might even help your motor run cooler...(full synthetic). I've learned over the years to be very wary of "mechanics " unless you get to know them very well. Some are just Burger King graduates. Hope this helps some.

[redliner1973]

You should be aware that use of 10w30 and lower weights have friction modifiers added and should NEVER be used in a motorcycle. these can be identified by seeing a starburst device in the front of the bottle. 10w40, 20-50, 15-50 does not have these modifiers in them and are ok to use as long as they meet or exceed the SAE requirements of your bike.

[focus frenzy]

You should be aware that use of 10w30 and lower weights have friction modifiers added and should NEVER be used in a motorcycle. these can be identified by seeing a starburst device in the front of the bottle. 10w40, 20-50, 15-50 does not have these modifiers in them and are ok to use as long as they meet or exceed the SAE requirements of your bike.

the friction modifiers are also found in the heavyer weights of oil and they dont hurt the engine or transmission.
the friction modifyer is in automotive oil to make it sliker and reduce internal friction, the problem with using it in motorcycles is that most motorcycle clutches run in the same oil as the engine and the friction modifiers coat the clutch plates causing the clutch to slip, ruining it.
When I bought my gs1000g and returned it to life after a six year slumber I put valvolene 10w40 in it and the clutch started to slip after a couple of weeks, I took the clutch apart and it still had plenty of material and the springs wear still good so I did some reserch on oils and learned about the differances.

[Anonymous]

The above is correct. Certain car engine oils have friction modifiers added to enable them to become more fuel efficient. They can be identified in some cases by being labelled "JASO MB". "JASO MA" oils are OK in motorcycle engines. Most older type car oils should be ok in bikes and I personally have heard of a GS750 covering 92000 miles using Castrol GTX, a basic 20/50 CAR engine oil.
I have heard oil company chemists advising not to use the latest fully synthetic oils in older aircooled engines, and definitely not when running in new components.
You have to remember that when the GS design was initiated, the oils available were pretty basic, and there was no advice from the manufacturer to avoid car oil.
The best advice I can distill from 20 odd years as a motorcyclist, and training as an aircraft piston engine engineer, is to use a fairly basic oil, preferably one intended for motorcycle engines, and change it regularly. I, like most GS owners I know, change my oil and filter every 2000 miles. The oil I use is Castrol GPS, a semi-synthetic m/c oil.

[earlfor]

I've used Castrol GTX20W50 in every bike I've had starting in
1973. I've never had the first problem with it. My GS750 is
motoring happily on it now. :-)

Earl

[quote="brit
You have to remember that when the GS design was initiated, the oils available were pretty basic, and there was no advice from the manufacturer to avoid car oil.
The best advice I can distill from 20 odd years as a motorcyclist, and training as an aircraft piston engine engineer, is to use a fairly basic oil, preferably one intended for motorcycle engines, and change it regularly. I, like most GS owners I know, change my oil and filter every 2000 miles. The oil I use is Castrol GPS, a semi-synthetic m/c oil.[/quote]

[Anonymous]

The oil filler cap on my bike says 10W-40, and that is what it recommends in my clymer also(10W-40 rated SE). Just don't use STP or other friction reducing additives it will wear down your clutch plates(also in the book).Hope this helps you. :mrgreen:

[Anonymous]

engine oil

My original 1982 Suzuki Service Manual states :
"Use API classification of SE or SF oil with SAE 10W/40 viscosity."
Of course this is a 20yr old manual so maybe there are better things out there today, but still I would prefer to stick to the original specifications.

Digno
1982 GS1100G

[TheNose]

focus frenzy - Since you did research on motor oils, what kind of oil do you use. I am a first time bike owner and have no idea what to use. I put Havoline 10W40 in it, but would like to know if I should change it to an oil made specifically for motorcycles. Thanks

[Anonymous]

After a rebuild I "trained" my 1100 engine up to synthetic! It has hiven me a faultless run for the past 20000K.

[earlfor]

Are you using 100% synthetic or a blend? Brand?

Earl

After a rebuild I "trained" my 1100 engine up to synthetic! It has hiven me a faultless run for the past 20000K.

[Anonymous]

Lots of different opinions

There are as many different opinions on this subject, thoughout the years, as there are riders, it seems. I stick to 10W40 motorcycle-specific, non-synthetic oil. I've tried regular automotive synthetic, motorcycle mineral, automotive mineral, with good results each time; no clutch slippage, no engine failure of any kind, no rough shifting.

Still, I'd rather stick to what Suzuki recommends. Just a hangup of mine, I guess, not necessarily supported by facts. I continue to buy 10W40 Suzuki or Honda, or Yamalube 20W40, dinosaur oil. If anything, it gives me an excuse to visit my local dealer(s) and buy something from them as I kick tires and talk to people coming and going. I don't mind spending close to $4 a quart once in a while at my local dealers, all of which are locally owned and operated by real people, nice people.

So, decisions and more decisions. I guess there's no wrong answer to any of this, is there?

Nick

[earlfor]

Re: Lots of different opinions

So Nick, how often do you change your oil and filter?

Earl

I don't mind spending close to $4 a quart once in a while at my local dealers, all of which are locally owned and operated by real people, nice people.

So, decisions and more decisions. I guess there's no wrong answer to any of this, is there?

Nick

[Anonymous]

Oil changing intervals

So Nick, how often do you change your oil and filter?

Earl

Earl, I've made it a habit to change it every 2,000 miles or so. The filter, every other time. I loosen the three 10-mm cap bolts and let out the oil in the filter compartment whenever I change oil without the filter.

I change the o-ring every time I change the filter. This has worked well for me for many years.

Nick

[redliner1973]

Most heavier weight oils dont add these friction modifiers, as they cost money, and are not required by the EPA due to auto manufacturers using 10w30 and lighter wieghts to help pass fuel and emissions tests on new cars and trucks. Also, it MUST be stated on the bottle, accordind to the SAE, that friction modifiers are added, hence the Starburst device, and the JASO MA designations. Look at the bottle of oils at your local auto parts or Wal mart or whatever, and you will see this on the bottles.



the friction modifiers are also found in the heavyer weights of oil and they dont hurt the engine or transmission.
the friction modifyer is in automotive oil to make it sliker and reduce internal friction, the problem with using it in motorcycles is that most motorcycle clutches run in the same oil as the engine and the friction modifiers coat the clutch plates causing the clutch to slip, ruining it.
When I bought my gs1000g and returned it to life after a six year slumber I put valvolene 10w40 in it and the clutch started to slip after a couple of weeks, I took the clutch apart and it still had plenty of material and the springs wear still good so I did some reserch on oils and learned about the differances.[/quote]