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This is valid for a GSX 1100 EF, 1984 and GS 1150 ES, 1984 with electronic tacho, I don't have the knowledge of other models with electronic tacho.
The problem with my tacho was that the needle started to bounce above approx. 5000 rpm and never went higher then 7000 - 8000 rpm; the needle was even going backwards.
I was able to fix this problem by changing two cheap capacitors on the tacho circuit board.
If you dismount the tacho (see instruction below), there is an electronic circuit board, which can be separated from gauge itself.
On this circuit board are two electrolytic capacitors mounted:
1 off Electrolytic Capacitor 4.7 uF, 25V, Elfa stock-number 67-013-46
1 off Electrolytic Capacitor 33 uF, 25V, Elfa stock-number 67-003-63
The max. Voltage of one of the Elfa Capacitor is 50V, higher max. Voltage doesn?t matter; the only problem is that the capacitor is a little bit bigger and a little more expensive (like 2 cents more or something, but in production this costs really matters).
You can use the Elfa numbers to get the correct values (in PDF-format) and then buy the capacitors at your local electronic dealer (or order them on-line at Elfa).
Visit www.elfa.se/en and click the ?Datasheets? button at the left of the page, then you enter the Elfa stock-number and you find a specification of the capacitors.
I have a scanned picture of my tacho board on my homepage where you can compare if your board looks the same as mine. www.karl.zellner.com/image004.jpg
Dismounting of tachometer from the bike
This is an improved mounting instruction and wherefore differs from the one discussed in the technical forum.
Only for the E-model without fairing, if you have fairing it might have to be removed (don't know because I have no fairing).
Remove t
he back panel on the instrumentation cluster by loosening the four screws.
Disconnect the electrical connector; don't forget to push the little plastic pin at the same time you pull out the connector.
Disconnect the three wire connectors (white, brown and orange) for the tacho and loose the two 7 mm nuts that hold the tacho.
Then loosen the four screws inside the instrumentation cluster that hold the instrument set.
Pull out the instrumentation set from the housing.
Gently pull out the tacho and try not to put your fingers on the tacho or Speedo scale because this make marks on the scale and it is time-consuming to clean the scales properly.
Change the capacitors by soldering out the old ones; it helps if you have access to a device that sucks the old solder away (the device is a simple manual thing you get in most electronic shops).
Solder in the new capacitors, be careful about + and -.
Remount the tacho.
The problem with my tacho was that the needle started to bounce above approx. 5000 rpm and never went higher then 7000 - 8000 rpm; the needle was even going backwards.
I was able to fix this problem by changing two cheap capacitors on the tacho circuit board.
If you dismount the tacho (see instruction below), there is an electronic circuit board, which can be separated from gauge itself.
On this circuit board are two electrolytic capacitors mounted:
1 off Electrolytic Capacitor 4.7 uF, 25V, Elfa stock-number 67-013-46
1 off Electrolytic Capacitor 33 uF, 25V, Elfa stock-number 67-003-63
The max. Voltage of one of the Elfa Capacitor is 50V, higher max. Voltage doesn?t matter; the only problem is that the capacitor is a little bit bigger and a little more expensive (like 2 cents more or something, but in production this costs really matters).
You can use the Elfa numbers to get the correct values (in PDF-format) and then buy the capacitors at your local electronic dealer (or order them on-line at Elfa).
Visit www.elfa.se/en and click the ?Datasheets? button at the left of the page, then you enter the Elfa stock-number and you find a specification of the capacitors.
I have a scanned picture of my tacho board on my homepage where you can compare if your board looks the same as mine. www.karl.zellner.com/image004.jpg
Dismounting of tachometer from the bike
This is an improved mounting instruction and wherefore differs from the one discussed in the technical forum.
Only for the E-model without fairing, if you have fairing it might have to be removed (don't know because I have no fairing).
Remove t
he back panel on the instrumentation cluster by loosening the four screws.
Disconnect the electrical connector; don't forget to push the little plastic pin at the same time you pull out the connector.
Disconnect the three wire connectors (white, brown and orange) for the tacho and loose the two 7 mm nuts that hold the tacho.
Then loosen the four screws inside the instrumentation cluster that hold the instrument set.
Pull out the instrumentation set from the housing.
Gently pull out the tacho and try not to put your fingers on the tacho or Speedo scale because this make marks on the scale and it is time-consuming to clean the scales properly.
Change the capacitors by soldering out the old ones; it helps if you have access to a device that sucks the old solder away (the device is a simple manual thing you get in most electronic shops).
Solder in the new capacitors, be careful about + and -.
Remount the tacho.
and, like an idiot, I broke the needle on my oil temp. 
But, there is enought left to still read the temp. :? .png)
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