Valve Cladder

[Anonymous]

Hi everyone,
I just got a 83 GS650L with only 5,500 miles. It is really clean, but when I bought it, it was running really lean, and their was a little bit of a cladder in the valves. The lean part I think I can fix by rebuilding tha carbs and upping tha main jet a size or two ( I am in the middle of rebuilding them). But I don't know what to do about the cladder. Do I need to do a valve adjustment ( if so how do I get the shims, and how do I know the sizes) ? Or do I just need to do a couple of good Hot oil changes(it sat for quite a while) ?Any ways your suggestions are more than welcomed.
Josh

[Dink]

The valve cladder (clatter?) you mention , is most likely valve clearances, but a couple of rapid oil and filter changes cant hurt!! To do the valve clearances first with the engine cold measure all valve clearances and write them down (in order, number one cylinder is on the left when seated on the bike, so note them as #1 inlet, #1 exhaust etc.) BTW do this with the engine stone cold. then you need to remove each valves shim and write down its size as well, in order. You will often find that swapping a shim from one valve to another will bring it with in range and reduce the number of shims you need to purchase, you then purchase the shims you need and insert them, fortunately this is not a procedure that needs repeating often, a few members have reported not having to do them again for a very long time. If you find all this a bit daunting I suggest leaving it to a pro, as valve clearances was one of the last things I ever attempted myself.
Dink

[Anonymous]

Despite Dink's misgivings valve adjustmants aren't hard, just time consuming.
You will need a valve depresser tool (about $30.00) and feeler gauges that go down to .03 mm or .0012 inches. The feeler gauge is something you can get from Suzuki. I will get you the part numbers when I go home tonight. The valve depresser is an after-market item. Don't try to buy the one from Suzuki, they want $130.00 for it, and it is the same as the after-market item. The shims can be ordered from your Suzuki dealer and usually run about $10.00 each. As Dink said, juggling the shims you have can reduce the numberof new shims you need. Some times you can trade a good used shim that you can't use for a good used shim that you can, if the mechanic at your dealer is willing.

Harrison

[Dark Jedi]

Also, post here. Some of us have spare shims lying around we might trade.

[Mobetter]

Shims here for $4.95 a pop.
Great people, I've ordered from them many times.
Lots of other good stuff on their site too!!

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/valve_shims.htm

Peace
Mo

[Anonymous]

Does the head have to be removed to do the shims???

[Mobetter]

Scotty wrote:

Does the head have to be removed to do the shims???

_________________


Boy that would be a bummer!
Nah Scotty, just the valve cover.
with the camlobe straight up, stick a feeler gage over the shim
and measure the clearance. You can pick them right out at that point
if the clearence isn't within spec.
I just hate scrapeing and replacing the gasket every time.
It's definitely the worst part of the job.
I think I'll go to one of those reuseable silicone gaskets
Hap was talking about.
Gods Peace
Mo

[mdole]

Does the head have to be removed to do the shims???

Scotty, Scotty. I just can't pass this one up. It depends where your head is.
There are certain portions of your anatomy that if your head is firmly inserted you will find it very difficult to remove the shims even with the removal tool.

But if you remove your head, first the job proceeds fairly easily.

Mike

[Anonymous]

So are you saying that I don't have to remove the cams? I can just rotate them till I can get to the shims?

[Anonymous]

You need a gadget to push the valves in. This lets you pull the shims out, it isn't like the other brands where the cam shafts have to come out.

Steve

[Anonymous]

Anybody know where I can get that tool to depress the valves?


Josh

[earlfor]

That is correct, you do NOT remove the cams. Yes, rotate the engine until the cam lobe is perpendicular to the head on the valve you are checking.
You will need the shim tool/depressor to be able to remove the shims.
I bought mine at

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/valve_shims.htm

I've delt with these people for a long time and they are great!

Earl

So are you saying that I don't have to remove the cams? I can just rotate them till I can get to the shims?

[Anonymous]

Is this the tool I need?

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm[/img]

[Anonymous]

Couldn't the lean mixture have been causing the valve cladder due to high head temp.

Maybe clean up the carbs and see what happens before pulling the valve cover.

[Anonymous]

Will do,
I should have the carbs back on within the next two weeks. Thanks for that idea. I didn't think of that.

josh
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