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Guest repliedOriginally posted by blowerbike View Post
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by TheCafeKid View PostJust another thought... And I dunno so it's why I'm asking... Was there any difference in deck height on the Kat head than the G head? I didn't see... The only thing From a G in this motor are the cams?
Not too long ago someone was talking about using bits from a 700 motor (short stroke) in a 750 motor... Or vice versa. Seems to me that there would/could have been issues with that...depending on which way it went.. Conrods longer or shorter,etc. Smacking the head/valves... Dunno if that's how it worked or not... Just wondering if there are any sorts of possibilities of something like that?
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Originally posted by TheCafeKid View PostIt's a 650G or no?? Certainly sounds like slap. What in the hell could make sounds like that in the top end and not result in destruction? Sticking valve (s)? Broken springs? That sounds nasty. And like i said the only thing I've ever heard come out of a GS motor that sounds like that is a blown conrod bearing. But if it's not a plain bearing crank... Then I'm at a loss as much as anyone. Is it possible that the cam sprockets are taller and the chain is slapping the valve cover?
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Guest repliedJust another thought... And I dunno so it's why I'm asking... Was there any difference in deck height on the Kat head than the G head? I didn't see... The only thing From a G in this motor are the cams?
Not too long ago someone was talking about using bits from a 700 motor (short stroke) in a 750 motor... Or vice versa. Seems to me that there would/could have been issues with that...depending on which way it went.. Conrods longer or shorter,etc. Smacking the head/valves... Dunno if that's how it worked or not... Just wondering if there are any sorts of possibilities of something like that?
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Originally posted by TheCafeKid View PostIt'll stuff up the exhaust noise so you can actually hear the motor spinning rather than all the clatter and noise coming through the pipes. It works quite well actually. Billy is right in that these noises bounce all around inside the cases. It makes it hard sometimes to pinpoint where it's coming from exactly. Using his suggestion, or a cheap mechs stethoscope or even a screwdriver (stick your ear to the handle, use the tip like a stethoscope) can aid in pinpointing where in the motor the racket is originating.
thats what i do but with an old towel..shop rags are handier though!
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by Suzuki_Don View PostBilly do you want to explain the shop towel in the exhaust principle please.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by BadBillyB View PostAn old shop towel put in the exhaust pipe would have made it easier for me to focus on the noise.....Billy
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Guest repliedBefore taking parts off the motor, see if you can at least pinpoint the general area of the noise. I am a professional car mechanic and I use a very simple device to pinpoint noises. A 36" piece of steel brake line with a length of vacuum hose attached to one end. Stick the vacuum hose in your ear and bend the brake line into any shape needed to get to the source of the noise. The better you can narrow down where the noise is coming from, the better chances of finding it during disassembly....I listened to the video numerous times and cant quite put a finger on it. An old shop towel put in the exhaust pipe would have made it easier for me to focus on the noise.....Billy
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Guest repliedThanks guys for all the suggestions.
JOSH it is a roller crank, no shell bearings in this motor and all radial clearances were checked when the crank was out of the motor by a velocette specialist who regularly replaces roller bearings on cranks for customers.
From the suggestions made I now plan to check the following after removing the valve cover:
1. If any of the cam caps are loose. (Done & OK)
2. If there is any play in the cam bearings. (Can anyone give me instructions on which plastigage to buy and how to use it on the cam bearings). (OK I
think)
3. Check cam end float. (Done & OK)
4. Check valve shim clearances. (Done & OK)
5. Check if cam chain is slapping against valve cover. (Done & OK)
6. Check the number of links between arrows 2 and 3 on the cam sprockets (make sure cam timing is correct). (Done & OK)
7. Check if cam sprocket bolts are loose. (Done & OK)
Is there anything that I have forgotten? Is there anything else that I should check?
Thanks again fellas.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by tkent02 View PostThis is not a plain bearing GS motor...
The noise goes away as RPM comes up?
Bad rods I have had got louder at higher RPM, although they were on car engines.
Did the cam caps stay bolted down correctly?
Someone had a similar noise on a 450 or something and it was one of the cam caps that had come loose.
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This is not a plain bearing GS motor...
The noise goes away as RPM comes up?
Bad rods I have had got louder at higher RPM, although they were on car engines.
Did the cam caps stay bolted down correctly?
Someone had a similar noise on a 450 or something and it was one of the cam caps that had come loose.Last edited by tkent02; 08-15-2010, 10:24 AM.
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Guest repliedDef NOT cam walk... I hate to say it, and I know you just rebuilt that motor, but that sounds like a shelled conrod bearing to me... I have heard that jack-hammer sound out of more than a couple plain bearing GS motors now..
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Sounds nasty Don. My guess is it's something other than cam float, but its hard to say. I'd try to take some measurements on cam float and cam saddle journal clearance and then you can go from there. Also, double check your valve shim clearances since they often change after a few heat cycles on a rebuild.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by almarconi View PostI don't hear anything that alarming from the engine. Sounds like a bit of valve noise. You don't won't a completely silent valve train. Are there any other symptoms beside the noise you are hearing?
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