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First start up after top end rebuild

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  • Nessism
    replied
    Sorry for the bad luck.

    Before you undo the cam cap bolts it's best to get some vice grips and clamp the cams down into the head like it shows in the factory service manual. Much less stress on the bolts and bolt threads that way.

    As for that broken bolt, a lot of the time they will just turn out by hand after they break. Try using a pointy drift or similar and hit the nub on the outer circumference and try to spin it out. Fingers crossed.

    Anti-seize is highly recommended on those bolts. Keeps them from sticking like you experienced.

    Good luck

    Leave a comment:


  • azr
    replied
    AAARRRRRRR.....pulled of the valve cover, sure enough the cams are not set properly as per the manual. Not sure how that happened as I know I checked it twice but obviously did something wrong. Anyways...start pulling the cams off and a single cam lobe bolt snapped in the head!!!!! this is what happened when I first pulled the engine apart, just a single bolt snapped. I'm not sure if there is a problem with the head, or the bolts, or just crap luck well I'm done for today that's for sure. I do have a shop that can helicoil the head for me but should I'm wondering if I should be worried that this is the second bolt to snap in this head? anyways, all a bit disheartening to say the least. Thanks for the help though guys, always appreciated.

    Leave a comment:


  • Big T
    replied
    Rob,

    You're down to basics - air, fuel, spark

    Air is likely good

    Spark you've checked

    Pull the plugs and dribble a few cc's of gas in each cylinder, put the plugs back in and see if it starts up

    Leave a comment:


  • azr
    replied
    Well still no luck, did try swapping the wires 'just in case' but no go. Well, now it seems I had better check my cam timing one more time. She's trying to catch but not that close. At least this way I'll be able to see if oil is up in the cams and lifts like it's supposed to be.

    Leave a comment:


  • azr
    replied
    Worth a try for sure, especially before I go back into the cams. But, the 'ol' suzuki' beat me today. Have been at her for at least 6 hrs and haven't really gotten any further. Learned lots that's for sure but haven't gotten her started yet. So I'm hanging up the grease rag for today and will have back at her with a vengeance tomorrow, well at least until I'm ready to kick her over off her centre stand!!! keep posted......

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  • Agemax
    replied
    glad that bit is sorted. try swapping the 2 wires that go from the Dyna to the coils.black one and a white one. sounds silly but worth a try.

    Leave a comment:


  • azr
    replied
    Got the shift linkage to mesh, and it all made sense when I looked at the components and 'the manual' everything was lined up like you said earlier. When I first turned the key on I saw my neutral light, I shifted down, I saw my first gear light then I shifted back up to neutral and all the neutral and gear indicator lights when out....arrrrrrr. Anyways she's shifting as she should now, the engine oil pressure light is working but she's still not starting. Slow turn over that's for sure, light a drained battery but she's fully charged. Like I said there was oil pouring out of the bolt hole where an oil pressure gauge would go so 'I'm guessing' oil is going where it should "and the little red light went out so everything is good......right??". Where have I heard that before, ha,ha,ha. Anyways....Ed had a good suggestion to recheck the cam timing, although I did static time they Dyna ignition and it is spot on, I kinda thought if the cam timing was off so would the ignition timing marks but what do I know. Any more suggestions please 'throw them this way'

    Leave a comment:


  • Agemax
    replied
    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
    I do. You can do what you want, but read this first:

    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
    its true, when i worked for Honda you could tell how a new owner "broke" his engine in. 2 identical bikes, 1 would go like hell, the other wouldn't pull the foreskin off a snail.
    1st bike,the owner took it straight from the showroom and rode it how it should be ridden.
    2nd bike, the owner "carefully" ran it in, not putting the engine under load and not revving it too high.

    usually bike No.2 could be saved to a degree by thrashing it up the road when it came in for its 1st service. (usually to the owners disgust, but they did have a wry smile on their face after, when they feel how much better the bike rides)

    Leave a comment:


  • tkent02
    replied
    Originally posted by gs850cafe View Post
    so once you got a new upper end you run it hard?
    I do. You can do what you want, but read this first:

    Leave a comment:


  • Agemax
    replied
    i think it is possible to engage the shift mechanism without removing the clutch but its awful fiddly. make sure you remove the shift lever and engine cover so you have lateral play on the shift shaft.

    Leave a comment:


  • azr
    replied
    Ok, the oil sensor is working now. Needed a better cleaning than the one I had initially given it 'I guess', anyways the red light is working now, on when key on goes out when turning over, as well the light comes on anytime I ground the wire or when I had the oil sensor out and hooked the wire to it and then grounded the sensor. I did hook up an oil gauge that was marked for a Honda GL1000 but it goes up to 180 on the dial, didn't register anything but when I took it back out I realized there was no oil there. So I left the hole open and turned it over a few times and oil finally started coming out. I buttoned up the hole and filled up my oil again as it had gone down 3/4-1 litre, so I'm guessing oil finally got up to the cams. Soo...I pulled off the clutch cover and you were bang on, the change mechanism is not engaging the teeth, must have been knocked out during the whole rebuild. Is there any way to get it to mesh back in with the gears without taking off the clutch basket? I've been trying with no luck yet....getting there. Ed, good question about the cams, it was awhile back now but I do remember following the manual to a 'T' and double checking but once I get the clutch issue sorted if it still does not fire I'll be checking that out, thanks the heads up.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nessism
    replied
    The oil pump is fine. I wouldn't give it another thought if the bike was running before the top end job, and you didn't mess with the clutch basket. The pump is gear driven and almost foolproof.

    Did you double check your cam timing? It's easy to get the cams 180* out of time.

    Leave a comment:


  • azr
    replied
    Originally posted by Agemax View Post
    you need to check if your oil pressure light switch is working ok.take the wire off the switch and ground it to earth (touching it on the engine will do). the oil light should come on. if it doesn't then you have a wiring problem. if it does then the switch could be faulty. a good clean may help it if its a bit sticky!.
    you can fit an oil pressure gauge on the end of the crankcase oil gallery to check pressure for sure but it needs to be a very low pressure gauge as the pressure is only a few psi.
    Good point, I actually have one in the shed. I'll test the switch and put the oil pressure gauge on until the bikes running, I'll make sure it's one for a bike and not a car though, lol. Thanks for the help so far, appreciated.

    Leave a comment:


  • Agemax
    replied
    you need to check if your oil pressure light switch is working ok.take the wire off the switch and ground it to earth (touching it on the engine will do). the oil light should come on. if it doesn't then you have a wiring problem. if it does then the switch could be faulty. a good clean may help it if its a bit sticky!.
    you can fit an oil pressure gauge on the end of the crankcase oil gallery to check pressure for sure but it needs to be a very low pressure gauge as the pressure is only a few psi.

    Leave a comment:


  • azr
    replied
    Originally posted by Agemax View Post
    1st thought is DO NOT START IT UNLESS YOU ARE SURE YOU HAVE OIL PRESSURE!.
    the gear shift sounds like you have not engaged the change mechanism correctly.
    you can see it behind the clutch on the left. the 2 quadrants have to be central together and the spring has to be either side of the locating post
    Ya I was looking at that the other night when I went in there the 2nd time. It 'looked' like it was correct but I bet that's the problem. Not sure what "the 2 quadrants have to be central together and the spring has to be either side of the locating post" exactly means but it'll probably make sense once I'm in there. Strange thing is I never removed the clutch basket. I definitely don't want to start the bike unless I have oil pressure, but please explain to a novice how determine that I already tried to roll the bike a bit but since it's a shaft bike that doesn't always work the same, so it seems anyways.

    Leave a comment:

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