leaking shaft boot gs1000

[bwringer]

Anyone know what size the oil seal is as no longer available from Suzuki?

Thanks Nick

I know several folks have done this job, but I don't know that any have stopped to write the seal dimensions down. If you measure what you have, I'm sure you can get an appropriate seal from an industrial supplier for metric seals.

This is one such supplier near me (in Indianapolis in the US), but I'm sure you can find a similar supplier in the UK.

https://www.metricsealsinc.com/

The bearings are still available from Suzuki, but they are also standard industrial metric parts you could very likely get from an industrial supplier. Most of these failures happen because the threaded stub on the end of the shaft breaks off and allows the splined drive flange to flop around and trash the bearing and seal. The fix is to drill and tap the shaft for a socket head bolt.

[Ukcalling]

Anyone know what size the oil seal is as no longer available from Suzuki?

Thanks Nick

So I decided to get started and removed the big rubber cover on the final drive assembly on top of the kickstand and this was completely filled with oil. My next step is to remove the back wheel (I need a new set of tires anyway)and then find the source of this leak. Any suggestions? It's clearly gear oil but is it from the gear box or the final drive? I'm thinking more gear box cause I removed the oil from both and my mystery leak looks more like my drained gear box oil. Also what parts do I need. Is there more than one seal? http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemp...2017/-oil-seal

Thanks. You guys rock

Chuck posted the parts fiche site on post #4 , part 15 and 16

I cant find that oring part number anywhere. Checked the diagrams in the Suzuki parts house and cant find it. Any idea what the part number would be?

Thanks. Appreciate it

[chuck hahn]

But when you reinstalled the engine it probably wasnt setting spot on perfectly like it was before removal...right??? Thus you readjust the swing arm so the U joints dont click..and the rear wheel just follows the axle when its tightened so there isnt anything to do back there...just tweek the pivots a bit till alls well. my previous post I said something about seeing the tires the same distance on each side of the swingarm too....scratch that as I misspoke. When the rear tires mounted its just gonna be where the spacers trap it in the swingarm and there isnt anything to adjust there.

[JTGS850GL]

OH...and when setting the swing arm set the pivots in but dont tighten them down...just snug them. When its all assembled and the back tire is on, youre gonna spin the back tire and listen for any rubbing from the drive shaft or the U joint inside the tube. Youll need to adjust using the pivots till nothings rubbing and each side of the tire is very close to the same distance to the inner rim of the swing arm...follow me???

Basically ensuring nothing rubbing inside the tube. The swing arm wont move much but it has some side to side play that needs to be set so things hitting.

Chuck!!!! You just cured a question I've had since I installed the 1100G engine in my 1000G. Ever since then, I've had the driveshaft, every so slightly, touching something inside the swing arm when rotating. It's all but gone now with no noticeable effects but I always wondered why it was doing it originally. Replace the engine without removing the swing arm so I didn't think that the swing arm mount was the source of the problem.

[chuck hahn]

OH...and when setting the swing arm set the pivots in but dont tighten them down...just snug them. When its all assembled and the back tire is on, youre gonna spin the back tire and listen for any rubbing from the drive shaft or the U joint inside the tube. Youll need to adjust using the pivots till nothings rubbing and each side of the tire is very close to the same distance to the inner rim of the swing arm...follow me???

Basically ensuring nothing rubbing inside the tube. The swing arm wont move much but it has some side to side play that needs to be set so things hitting.

[chuck hahn]

Just a big allen for the swing arm pivots. I didnt have one so I made one. I took an old rear brake pedal pivot and used the bench grinder to grind the splined end to fit into the socket. Glad i did this as it them took a cheater pipe to snap them loose after forever being in there. Drop the back tire, unbolt and remove the pumpkin from the swing arm, remove the pivots and slide the swing arm out the back end. Then remove the bolts holding the bevel gear to the rear of the bike. Throw a big pair of vice grips on the drive shaft and take a hammer to the vice grips and tap the assembly out.

Look at the parts fiches and order that big oring. Of course drain the gear oil first.

An'y idea what parts I need? I do all my own work but I am a newb.

[chuck hahn]

Its not that bad of a job. Takes a few hrs to get to the bad Oring. Worst thing is resetting the swing arm hinges..having to hold the swing arm up a bit while installing the hinge pins.

I have the same problem. My boot is leaking a coffee color oil. Changed the gear oil about 3 times and still the same. I'm thinking bad seals. I might just live with it for now. Looks like a big job.

The boot is to keep dirt out, not oil in. and yes it's motor oil. The gearbox shares it with the engine.

Why haven't you undone the boot and looked?

i.will.get.around.to.it.at.some.point.ive.still.go t.an.ignition.system.on.my.750.to.fix.first.as.its .a.more.pressing.problem.also.why.is.my.spacebar.n ot.working!