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My very own paint thread
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No offense, but just misting a little primer over the bare metal should be just fine. All you're doing is putting a thin barrier between the metal and new base coats. No need to feather it back farther, or especially strip and re-do it..sheesh. As long as all the materials you're using are compatible together from the start, you shouldn't have any problems.Originally posted by MisterCinders View Post
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Guest repliedI'd also sand out the bare metal patches a bit first to feather in the new primer and paint.Originally posted by nvr2old View PostJust dust the bare metal with a little primer, otherwise the paint will not stick to it.
If the bare spots are especially visible (like on top), you should weigh spot priming against stripping and re-painting. Spot primed areas never seem to blend back into the rest of the piece.
Ask me how I know . . .
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Just dust the bare metal with a little primer, otherwise the paint will not stick to it.
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Guest repliedI believe it got better with time...
I sanded off the ripples and exposed a little bare metal, is that going to be a serious problem?
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Guest repliedHere is a shot after 20ish hours of drying. Im not too happy with it so far. The black looks quite grey, hopefully it will improve after more coats.


Here are the runs that need to be sanded. Its still a little tacky, so Ill wait awhile longer before sanding.
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Guest repliedFinally got around to spraying today. Went a little too heavy and got some runs so I will wait 24 hours, sand that area and respray. Other than that it looks pretty amazing.
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Guest repliedUsed the 2x for primer

and the "painters touch" (apple red no clear applied)
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Guest repliedlol, i have one of those, except with a hose at the end and from the USSR time frame, it scares the crap out of ppl
Originally posted by Adler View PostSo I guess Ill be using the "Painters Touch" stuff.
Do you guys think this will be adequate protection? Its what I have on hand...

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Guest repliedWhich one did you use?Originally posted by noshock View Post"Painter Touch" brand? Or the "Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2x" brand?"
I have used them on a couple of projects. I am a complete novice and result were ok(due to my skill level). Tough paint, nice glossy finish. Also used their primer
from this

to this

painted bags and rear cowl to match bike.

"Painters Touch" or the "2x"
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Guest replied"Painter Touch" brand? Or the "Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2x" brand?"
I have used them on a couple of projects. I am a complete novice and result were ok(due to my skill level). Tough paint, nice glossy finish. Also used their primer
from this

to this

painted bags and rear cowl to match bike.
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Yeah and you can chase the neighbor's dog and kids around and scare the heck out of them too.
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Guest repliedSo I guess Ill be using the "Painters Touch" stuff.
Do you guys think this will be adequate protection? Its what I have on hand...
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Guest repliedAdler,
I shot my alloy wheels (last weekend) with the Painters Touch, Satin Black. I taped the outer edges and sprayed all of the spokes. Then, as per instructions from another forum member, I cleaned the top of the spokes with a single edge razor blade. I cleaned the first wheel Sunday night and it was pretty aesy. Last night I did the other (paint must have been pretty well cured) and it was like skinning a rhino with your Swiss Army knife. Just remember, the devil is in the details. Get it really clean and degreased and use a couple of coats of good primer.
Niels
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Guest repliedGreat idea to use some heated/bent re-bar!Originally posted by Adler View PostI used some extremely advanced technology...


I might have to steal that idea in the future.
Eric
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Right. I recognize that tool from a previous thread, just hadn't thought about it being one of yours. Been meaning to try something like that on the self-imposed dent on the crown of my tank.
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