Baffle removal

[Bert Patterson]

I couldn't seem to catch on anything at the end of the baffle with the threaded rod and washers approach. Instead, I looped some medium gauge wire between two of the holes at the end and twisted it around a piece of 2x4. Couple smacks with a 4# hammer and it slid right out.It's pretty deteriorated and disgusting. New mat comes tomorrow.

Stock the V&H megaphone is pretty quiet, but sounds good. It got much louder over the past couple years and was definitely tinnier-sounding.

I have found that with a straight-through baffle, the diameter of the center tube determines the decibel level, the amount and quality of the wrapping around the tube only control the "echo chamber" that is the space between the tube and the outer shell.

It is the ratio of canister diameter to outlet hole diameter that determines most of the sound reduction.

My baffle has a plug in the middle of the tube, which forces all the exhaust through the perforations in the tube, into the outer ("echo") chamber, past the plug, back through the perforations into the back half of the tube and finally out the end. Because exhaust has to flow through the outer chamber, I can not wrap it tightly.

I would say that design shouldn't be wrapped at all.

I have, instead, packed the outer chamber with the coarsest stainless steel wool I could find. It came as a rolled mat, which made it easier to wrap around the tube. Has the wonderful sound of a 4-into-1 pipe, but is quiet as a stock pipe. The best of both worlds.

Now if someone could give me a clue what brand it is, I would really appreciate it.

Stainless steel pot scrubbers work well for this and are available at your local grocery store. What brand the muffler is or the stainless steel wool? Got pics?


Mark

[dorkburger]

I packed mine last winter. Turns out the can had no wrap in it. Straight thru Yoshi pipe.
As Steve noted, the sound level on mine did not change much either, but there was a tone difference.
When empty, the exhaust note had a bit if a metallic ring to it. Wrapped, the tone is softer and a bit less harsh.

[Steve]

I have found that with a straight-through baffle, the diameter of the center tube determines the decibel level, the amount and quality of the wrapping around the tube only control the "echo chamber" that is the space between the tube and the outer shell. Wrapping with fiberglass works quite well, especially if you keep it tight to the core with some stainless wire wrapped around the fiberglass.

My baffle has a plug in the middle of the tube, which forces all the exhaust through the perforations in the tube, into the outer ("echo") chamber, past the plug, back through the perforations into the back half of the tube and finally out the end. Because exhaust has to flow through the outer chamber, I can not wrap it tightly. I have, instead, packed the outer chamber with the coarsest stainless steel wool I could find. It came as a rolled mat, which made it easier to wrap around the tube. Has the wonderful sound of a 4-into-1 pipe, but is quiet as a stock pipe. The best of both worlds.

Now if someone could give me a clue what brand it is, I would really appreciate it.

.

[Tom R]

I did this earlier this year. I just bent a hook on the end of a piece of rod, ground it so it would fit in the holes of the baffle, and clamped some vice grips on the other end. Then I tapped it out with a regular hammer. Not very elegant or clever, but quick and it worked.
Ill add that my bike really isn't any quieter, but does sound much better.

[Steve]

I have also been known to close the jaws of an old crescent wrench over the rod, then beat on the wrench with a hammer.

Just a thought in case you need a little more 'oomph'.

.

[Bert Patterson]

Thanks, Steve. That makes sense and no treason to buy the hook. The hole on mine goes all the way though. I might just use one of my big deep-well sockets for the hammer.

[Steve]

Does the hole in the middle of the baffle go straight through? If it does, find a washer that just barely fits through it. Then find a length of all-thread rod and a couple of nuts to sandwich the washer at the end. Do the same thing at the other end of the all-thread. You should be able to drop the washer at one end into the baffle and hang it over the front, then use a slide hammer technique on the other end to bang it out.

If the hole doesn't go all the way through (mine doesn't), you may have to spray some penetrating oil around the edges, wait for it to work, then pull it out.

.

[Bert Patterson]

This is my first time to remove a baffle. In about 50 years of bikes, I've either never had a bike long enough or just replaced the exhaust.

1982 GS1100e with a V&H Megaphone that has been getting too loud and I need to re-wrap the baffle. Since I can't just remove the bolt and slide the thing out, I thought about buying a puller hook from Grainger, threading it on a long piece of rod, then adding a weight, nut and washer to make a slide hammer. Does anyone have a better idea?

I love earplugs and hate loud pipes.