Shindengen SH775 plugs

[tom203]

.....
Time to review the headlight circuit, and install a relay, and consider a new bulb with less draw. How much difference will a relay make?


On the charger the battery goes to 13.3 volts, then gradually drops to 12.8 or so where it stabilises. Over 4 days storage it has dropped to 12.3. Is this a sign of a battery problem?

Skip the relay, stator and R/R still have to produce the power no matter how it gets to headlight. An extra bright bulb should be no problem except maybe at idle where voltage might droop slightly.. You need to retest.
Your battery dropping to 12.3 after 4 days is odd- mine stays at + 12.5 after 2 weeks of sitting

[Steve]

Does the rotor magnet ever go bad? Any way to test it?

I have heard a few reports where someone suspected that the magnetism was a bit diminished, but very few people have the tools to measure that.

However, if you smack the rotor just a bit wrong in an effort to pull it, it is definitely possible to crack the magnets, which renders the entire rotor useless.

.

I measured the outputs with the leads bare. That was before I elected to fill the plug cavity with rtv so it would fit in the tight space I had available. Time to pull it apart, check the connections and crimps, and do it over to be sure.

Also time to pull the starter cover and verify all three leads from the stator are unharmed. The last failure of the stator was caused by wires burning just under the starter cover where they are route on the way to the rr. I made sure that area was smooth when I installed the current stator. Checking it all makes sense, along with testing the outputs.

Does the rotor magnet ever go bad? Any way to test it?

[Steve]

Thanks Steve, and Nessism. I will check connections and run the tests again. This is a brand new Rick's stator, and should not be faulty. Wired straight into the battery as recommended.

You are right, it SHOULD not be faulty, but did you measure the output when you installed it?

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Thanks Steve, and Nessism. I will check connections and run the tests again. This is a brand new Rick's stator, and should not be faulty.Stator wired straight into the battery as recommended here, and diligently followed.

[Steve]

The wiring looks straightforward, with one question- in the double plug, which is ground and which is power?

The "power" wire is the one closer to the stator inputs.

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[Nessism]

Did you wire the stator directly into the R/R like conventional forum wisdom dictates? Did you check for resistance drop, and subsequent voltage loss, in the R/R power output circuit on the way to the battery? Assuming yes to both these, then voltage falling to 13 volts with the headlamp on is a sign of a weak stator.

I have been using the bike with its new electricals for a month. 78 GS1000C.

I get 14.4 volts at 4500 rpm with the headlight off. Headlight on, it drops to around 13 volts. I have a very bright halogen bulb, which accounts for some of this. Does the Sh 775 RR behave like it should, or is there something else going on. From what I read, shouldn't it maintain a steady 14.4 volts?

Time to review the headlight circuit, and install a relay, and consider a new bulb with less draw. How much difference will a relay make?

The other issue is I have twice blown the old 15 amp glass tube fuse. This was on a semi melted but resoldered set of clips. I have replaced it with a modern inline fuse, so far no problems.

On the charger the battery goes to 13.3 volts, then gradually drops to 12.8 or so where it stabilises. Over 4 days storage it has dropped to 12.3. Is this a sign of a battery problem?

[posplayr]

I just observed my new SH 77r RR with my multimeter. At 4500 rpm it charges at 14.5 volts. Turning off the headlight, the voltage drops to 12.9. It responds to the load on it, and only provides enough power to cover the load. Turning the headlight back on, the voltage returns to 14.5.

This is how it is supposed to work, right?

Could be but I would not expect that. If the R/R is expected to regulate at 14.5V it should regulate at 14.5V regardless of the lights being on of off. The only time it cant achieve 14.5 is if there is in sufficient voltage coming from the stator. Are you sure the 12.9V is at 4000 RPM with the lights off?

I just observed my new SH 77r RR with my multimeter. At 4500 rpm it charges at 14.5 volts. Turning off the headlight, the voltage drops to 12.9. It responds to the load on it, and only provides enough power to cover the load. Turning the headlight back on, the voltage returns to 14.5.

This is how it is supposed to work, right?

[posplayr]

SH-775 results seem to be confirmed it is a SERIES R/R and the R/R of choice for all 3 Phase PM charging systems which includes almost all GS charging system.

Results discussion.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=209843

Current Avaliablity

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1882189&postcount=417

Got the new SH 775 BA today. I am fabbing an aluminum mounting plate, because I need to rotate it 90 degress to get it to fit.

The wiring looks straightforward, with one question- in the double plug, which is ground and which is power?

[Steve]

Yes, it's a nice piece of work, and so is the harness from Eastern Beaver, but I tend to end up modifying their harness so much, I may as well do it all myself from the beginning.

Not to mention the fact that it saves me $20-45 each time.

.

[robertbarr]

Hi Mac,
I got the pre-assembled kit from http://roadstercycle.com/

It was $45 ... I was up and running much more quickly than if I had been forced to put my solder skills to the test.

Chris

That's a handy link.

Someone should mention that the terminals that come with the kits are 'open barrel', and require a crimping tool specifically for that purpose. Anything else is just troglodyte.

Personally, I love open barrel, but it takes a good tool and a little practice. Nothing wrong with letting someone else handle it -- which is slowly becoming my standard motto anymore.

Hi Mac,
It sounds like you found what you are looking for, but I got the pre-assembled kit from http://roadstercycle.com/

It was $45 and it was already soldered and shrink wrapped, with a self-resetting breaker. It would likely have been cheaper to piece it together myself, but I was up and running much more quickly than if I had been forced to put my solder skills to the test.

Chris