Please confirm I need a new R/R and stator.

[Grimly]

Maybe I'm the last to know but the Polaris p/n 4012941 which I thought was a SH775 now appears to be a MOSFET shunt r/r with overtemp cutoff.

What you're seeing are all the MOSFET fakes, sneakily listed with the Polaris part number.
If you want reliability, make sure of getting an RZR800 2011 reg/rec or simply buy new from a genuine source. Prices of the used ones have risen to the point where my next one will be a new purchase.
These are probably genuine, but I would ask the seller to confirm and photograph the end plate with the insignia...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/11-RZR-800-RZR800-Regulator-23-13228-/201156834872

http://www.ebay.com/itm/11-RZR800S-RZR-S-800-Regulator-28-14697/201206687716

Because this is what it should look like - from a genuine Polaris parts dealer, Partzilla...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-4012941-REGULATOR-3PH-35A-SERIES-105C-/271884246497

Observe the end markings.

In view of the crazy shipping prices now being charged by ebay and their (spit!) Global Shipping Program, it makes more sense to simply spend twenty or thirty bucks extra and buy new with a warranty, some assured quality, and a bit of peace of mind.

Here's Steve's linkage to stockists (forget European suppliers unless you have a spare limb to sell).
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?226979-Polaris-R-R-prices-(SH775-Polaris-part-number-4012941)&p=2116430#post2116430

I could get one direct to my door from Partzilla's warehouse for $120 inclusive, which isn't too savage all things considered. I'd also be prepared to pay duty on that, but hey-ho.

[Brendan W]

A tale of two stators.
Now I have a really interesting situation. I got a very clean looking stator used but it only puts out 56V at 5000. Phase resistances are even but low. It's wye wound but has no identifier on it except 1K. It barely managed 13.4V at 5000 and I could tell the battery was not being charged adequately. The old ND stator is putting out 80V unloaded, nothing to ground. I have also found a used r/r which is topping out at just over 15V. On paper the Suzuki manual is happy. How lucky do I feel. Ordered a 775.

[Grimly]

A tale of two stators.
Now I have a really interesting situation. I got a very clean looking stator used but it only puts out 56V at 5000. Phase resistances are even but low. It's wye wound but has no identifier on it except 1K. It barely managed 13.4V at 5000 and I could tell the battery was not being charged adequately. The old ND stator is putting out 80V unloaded, nothing to ground. I have also found a used r/r which is topping out at just over 15V. On paper the Suzuki manual is happy. How lucky do I feel. Ordered a 775.

I would not be at all surprised if the clean-looking used one with the low voltage is a GS500 one from China, underwound to shave the cost down.

[Brendan W]

I would not be at all surprised if the clean-looking used one with the low voltage is a GS500 one from China, underwound to shave the cost down.

You could well be right. There may be only 20 turns on each pole. I'll get pics up later.

[posplayr]

Opened the generator and found three bullet connections, two of which had fried. How did I miss them? I've had that open before to replace the shims on the intermediate starter gear. On the bright side the stator now looks good. No shorts to case and 0.8 ohm leg to leg. Any suggestions on where to go from here? The damage is local to the bullet connectors. The yellow wire looks more suited to turn signals.

i just saw this picture; my conclusion is that these bullet connectors are cheap auto move grade with crappy cimpers. If you are going to rely on a crimp it better be good meaning quality grip properly fitted to the wire size snd well crimped. If the PO had installed a series r/r he might have gotten away with it but not a shunt r/r

[Brendan W]

i just saw this picture; my conclusion is that these bullet connectors are cheap auto move grade with crappy cimpers. If you are going to rely on a crimp it better be good meaning quality grip properly fitted to the wire size snd well crimped. If the PO had installed a series r/r he might have gotten away with it but not a shunt r/r

The low output stator had a perfect oem pigtail with grommet. I removed the yellow tails in the pic and soldered the good pigtail to the windings which I'm hoping will be ok under load. As said it is giving 80V ac between all phases at 5000 with nothing to ground and 1.1 Ohm between phases and infinity to ground with admittedly, low stress meter injecting a few Volts. Should have the 775 soon and have time to get wire from the local shop and rewind the low output stator as a spare.
On the subject of resistance measurement, I am getting slightly different readings at different times. Maybe 0.8 and then 1.1. They are always the same number. The battery is in the meter a long time

[Brendan W]

This stator I thought was a good one. Only puts out 55V at 5000, zero to ground and phase resistances all equal, infinite to ground. No identifier except 1K on the reverse. Looks to be a bit light in the wire size or number of turns ? The tail for the wye is stuck between two poles at eleven o'clock.

[posplayr]

This stator I thought was a good one. Only puts out 55V at 5000, zero to ground and phase resistances all equal, infinite to ground. No identifier except 1K on the reverse. Looks to be a bit light in the wire size or number of turns ? The tail for the wye is stuck between two poles at eleven o'clock.

Recall (as has been discussed here) that the maximum output current and therefore power of the stator is limited by the magnetic strength of the rotor. So even though the open loop volts/RPM is low (55V/80V=69%) , it just means that you will achieve the magnetic limit at a higher RPM.

Based on some curves, I produced a while back. Max flux (related to current) saturation of a typical rotor occurs at about 3500 RPM so expect that number to go up to 5070 RPM. It will still charge, but at lower RPM you will be proportionally lower on the available power and probably always discharging at idle (for std loads). With LED directional and headlamp it would probably be fine. You probably need about 15VAC to just start exceeding battery voltage (about 1400 RPM) so you will need a high idle to avoid discharging.

Bottom line is that winding only affect low RPM charging performance; In the 3.5-5K RPM region it is constrained by the rotor.

[Brendan W]

Thanks Jim. I appreciate your input. Steep curve here. For better or worse I have gone back to the other stator. With this one I knew it wasn't charging as well and I'm on filaments throughout. Waiting for gaskets and stem seals and the 775 so I can button this thing back up. A week is a long time with no ride although I have been borrowing my son's Z400B Everyone should have a light twin in the stable.

[posplayr]

Thanks Jim. I appreciate your input. Steep curve here. For better or worse I have gone back to the other stator. With this one I knew it wasn't charging as well and I'm on filaments throughout. Waiting for gaskets and stem seals and the 775 so I can button this thing back up. A week is a long time with no ride although I have been borrowing my son's Z400B Everyone should have a light twin in the stable.

Sorry to go into that , I would put in the correct stator as well.

[Brendan W]

Just an update on this saga.
The original stator is back on the bike with a good used pigtail with proper grommet soldered to the windings. The original r/r was not charging sufficiently ( ~13.2 V ) after the stator lead meltdown although it had been rock steady at 14.4 V for the last two years after the connections were cleaned up and a spg organised. I tried the original r/r with two stators. Both had even phase resistances and even no load interphase outputs, one at 56V the other at 80 V , and nothing to ground for either. Both had the same 13.2 V output with the old r/r.
With the 775 on I have 14.2 volts at 5000rpm with a fully charged battery installed.
I'm guessing that the stator lead meltdown may have damaged the r/r and somehow left the stator unharmed? Sorry for rambling on. Trying to think on paper.